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#1 (permalink) |
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Turbo Lover
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I just picked up a TurboXS MBC and I'm itching to install it but first, I'd like to know the best setup for it. I'm thinking of just totally removing the stock boost control setup and running the hose from the back of the Y-pipe to the MBC and out from there to a T-fitting and running hoses from the fitting to the wastegates. Does that sound doable? Is there a difference if the two lines were of different lengths?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Here for the tuna.
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Yep that's how you do it.
Equal hose length to the wastegates = even boost regulation. Oh and don't forget to plug the nipple on your rear intake hose after you remove the line from the stock boost solenoid.
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2002 WJ -- 1994 VR-4 -- --Canon Rebel XTi ![]() Last edited by lawdogg : 05-01-2008 at 02:18 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Mr. Cheese
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can someone get a picture.. not a diagram showing where said hose that need to be capped on the rear intake hose? Is that one of the two stock lines that normally would go to the stock boost controller?
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1992 Dodge Stealth RT-Twin Turbo
64,000 miles, Stored Winters, AEM Tru-Boost, Greddy Type S BOV, DNP Y-Pipe and Intake Pipes, Palm MMCD, Tein S-Tech Springs, Brembo Rotors, MSD Wires, K&N FIPK, EGR Delete, Vacuum Reduction, Cianci 3 Gauge A-Pillar, 5zigen FN01R-C 18x9.5's wrapped in BFG KDW 265-35-18's. 13% Tint, 12 Disc CD changer, Greddy Turbo Timer. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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3SX FTL
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Quote:
Scroll down and you'll see a photo of the rear intake pipe with the nipple capped. Clint
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The Pansy Patrol
1995 3000GT VR-4 but real niggaz don't give a fuck: V1, comprehensive denastificizzle, vishizzous accessory biznelt mod, K&N, Greddy Profec B S-P-to-tha-izzec II, S-AFC, Walbro 341, DSM 450s, n AEM UEGO; battery relocizzle K-R-to-tha-izzank Vents, EK2MFG fizzle rizzle loop n plenum spaca, lethal_vr4 manual gang bangin' rizzay, SKVR4 AWS delete, polyurethane motor mounts, adjustable control arms, SS brakes lines, n EGR blockoffs; Custom brakes lines wit cockpit-mounted adjustable proportion'n valve, 332mm Stoptechs, Carbotech Brotha Plus/Porterfield Rizzle ATE Pusha Blue, OZ Gang Bangin' F1 Plus 17x9.5 +36mm, Yokohama AVS ES100 275/40/17, Tein Fizzle w/EDFC n SCE Casta/Camba Plates, SCE oilpan, DSM sidemounts, DN Precat Eliminizzles 13G/9B combo (9psi springs), J-spec final drive, RPS flyhweel n Spec II clutch, IPO propane, ATR downpipe, tizzest pipe, n Single Shot1994 Mazda Protege DX: 253K miles, DOHC 1.8L swap, rear disc brake conversion, poorly-designed header, some cheap-ass suspension upgrades, Carbotech Panther Plus, Miata wheels, other crap here and there, arguably the fastest piece of shit in New England and no one can do anything about it ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Turbo Lover
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I went ahead and installed it, running it inline with the Y-pipe and tee. I deleted the vacuum hoses to the stock boost solenoid and the hose that ran to the rear inlet pipe and capped all the nipples. I retained the stock wastegate lines and tee. I noticed that although the distance to the rear wastegate actuator is much shorter, a large portion of the line to the front is actually hard line and the length of the soft lines for the front and rear are about the same. However, does the length of hose running to and out of the MBC make a difference? I can easily trim a few inches off of them.
I started off with the boost controller fully closed so I was running wastegate pressure (~5psi) and slowly started opening it until it peaked at 13psi. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Here for the tuna.
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edhead - Sounds good! How does it feel?
To answer your questions, the length of hose coming into the MBC does not really matter - probably shorter is better. The hard line running to your front wastegate can easily be eliminated and replaced with vac. hose in equal length to the hose to the front wastegate - but if you don't feel like doing that, it's fine. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Turbo Lover
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Quote:
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