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#21 (permalink) | |
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est. sept, 2000
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Quote:
correct on both counts
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97 VR4 12.417@111.16 9b time. full weight almost BPU
95 mark viii. 14.35@98 03 cobra vert. 4 mods=118mph traps 91 stealth TT. td05 18G, heads/cams, 3000lbs ![]() |
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Retired
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Quote:
I used to live in FL, but I had a turn-key car from Dynamic Racing. Over the course of a few years I did a lot of additional work to it, though. From a tuning perspective, it was 100% tuned by me with nothing but a Pocketlogger, EGT, G-tech and some open road. I ran 12.0 @ 118MPH on 16psi and pump gas with no traction. The next trip, with 100 octane, I ran 11.6 @ 122MPH at 20psi and then 11.4 @ 125 at 22psi and then got booted off the track never to return... I eventually added a FMIC, CFDS, lighter wheels, better tires, O2 dumps and a few other odds and ends but never went back to the track. Mine was certainly low 11 second capable, even with the stock intercoolers, etc.. My traps may have even been good enough for 10's with a real tire, track prep and madman driving. There aren't many low 11 second TD04 cars out there, but there are a lot of 16g cars running slower times than I did 4-5 years ago on TD04 peashooters.. 16g's don't automaticlly equal low 11's or better...
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2002 Z06 Garage Queen | 1994 Supra TT Garage Queen 2 | 1999 3000GT Daily Beater
![]() Formerly: 1992 Stealth RT/TT 1993.5 Supra TT 1993 3000GT 1992 3000GT VR-4 11.4 @ 124MPH 1998 Trans AM WS6 1992 Talon TSi 1993 3000GT VR-4 |
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#23 (permalink) |
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resident evil
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Dont go to places that flippantly think they can work on a 3S that never has, and def dont go to a place that has and will not touch them although the latter are pretty smart but just might not be good enough. Being a parts installer is easy on alot of imports because they are cookie cutter and usually, its easier to work on a new car thats working perfectly. The 3s cars are old and need to be working well in a base line before mods are thrown at it. This is something the kids cant afford to have a shop do, but what is often done with domestics right off the bat unless they are replacing everything anyway which you cant really do with these cars so easily on the cheap. Learn to work on it yourself, and do the free mods and get the car to optimum stock condition, then look for more power. If your not familiar with the car, then trying to take the car from 13s(or whatever its doing) to 11s in one shot is not that wise
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#26 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
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#27 (permalink) |
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Retired
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DR650's w/ Stage II heads
Abram P - Dynamic Racing The modlist on DR's site includes some parts that were added after I ran the above-listed track times. |
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#30 (permalink) |
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1st NG08 / 2nd NG07 Drags
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Scott Johnson ran 11.3 on pump gas DR-500s. I have run 11.8 without traction and hot lapping; i'll prob hit 11.5 or so when i get back to the track. Im seeing a lot of talk about hp; where is the talk about traction, weight distribution, overall weight, diffs, driveline effeciency, etc.
My rec if you want to road race, drag race, and dd is DR 16Ts, heads, and sig weight reductions. Also the widest tire you can put on it, cf driveshaft, front lsd, and good suspension setup. dont think that the only way you can cut weight is by destroying the car. You can easily cut 400 lbs. By going this route you can hit 11.6-11.7 on race fuel without needing a shit ton of hp. Then you keep good idle, easy to tune, good gas mileage, very minimal lag, etc. On a road course you have to accelerate, slow down, and turn weight - get rid of it.
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11.6 @ 124 w/DR-500s
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