Ok I had my timing belt tensioner pulley start making noise after only 25K of having my engine rebuilt . I changed out everything like doing a 60K again. After at least 6 tries I finally got my timing belt aligned properly and I double, triple 4x checked it.
My history was anytime I tried getting more than 1-2 degrees BTDC I would start getting knock counts well over 7. When I would check the timing with a light it was always just a little jumpy but the car ran good. My last dyno just a little over a month ago I pulled 367hp at the wheels at 5700 RPMs.
I have also always noticed my car revs a bit slower than everyone elses. Now after changing the belt it revs MUCH quicker and my timing which was set to 0 to prevent knock is now at 7 BTDC and rock steady. Wow if it had been off 1 notch all this time I wonder how much more HP I will have gained?????
I cant blame the shop that did the engine rebuild to much, for the most part they did an awesome job and kept me in the loop 100% of the time. I should have double checked it myself before installing it but that would have meant taking the covers off and such. I did line up the timing mark and cam pulleys and it looked like they were in place but it may have been just a little before 0.
I noticed my power accessory tensioner pulleys are also making a little noise so Iím replacing them this week also.
Has anyone else had this happen and not noticed for a long time?
I wonder if thats my problem. My car revs really slow and my MAFt has to be set on 450cc even with 680s in the car and 50psi fuel pressure--it still runs lean on steady cruise over 80hz. I checkeed the timing a couple times already and it looks right on, but it could be off a couple degrees.
Yeah see I checked all my cam gears and they all lined up perfectly, the timing mark looks like it's at 0 but it may have been a little before. I would suggest lining up all you cam gears, and looking again to make sure 100% that the lower mark is on 0 and not before or to be extra sure, pulling the wheel and splash guard and pulling the harmonic balancer (I know it's a pain) do double check.
I cant believe how much faster my car revs. I always wondered why my was slower, it wasnt slow driving or racing but I bet it's faster now.
My car feels like its towing a trailer at WOT. I dont think my crank pully was perfectly on zero when they all lined up. Cool, gives me another thing to check. I always felt like something was off on the whole MFI system cause even my timing is really high (like 37 on the logger at WOT) and I get knock counts at only 14psi running pretty rich before it retards to 33/34. I keep blowing the rear turbo also. I almost eliminated the possibility it could be cam timing because I kept checking the marks and visually, it all seems right but I guess it could be off a tiny bit and it would be hard to even notice from the way the marks are offset from the pulley on both the crank pulley and the timing gears.
What would happen when you hit it with a timing light? Mine was not steady, it would bounce back and forth a little but you could tell where it was supposed to be. Now it's rock steady and I never see any movement. That was the first thing I noticed besides it reving faster and seemed to be running pig rich.
Hmmm better gas milage, revs faster and more HP this could be nice.
I still have to change out the AC and Power steering pump tensioner pulleys today. Dealer has them in stock $60 & $139
You shouldn't need to remove the front cover, just the cam covers. The crankshaft drive pulley is keyed to the timing belt pulley. If the timing mark on the drive pulley is alligned with the 0 mark on the front cover, that should be TDC. Do the cam gears then allign with timing marks on the valve covers.
Ok, I'll check that. I dont have cam covers due to the cam gears (which are all set to zero), but I cant quite see the cam marks on the one rear intake cam gear cause the shock tower is in my line of sight. I counted the teeth on the gear with my fingers and it seems like its on, but the crank pulley might have been off a hair--I dont think it was exactly on zero. I was thinking that maybe thats how you dial in the cams because on a pushrod, its not always on the zero marker---
When the timing belt is installed, the crank gear is one tooth CCW from the mark to account for the belt tension. If the gear was on the mark when the belt was installed, the crank would be one tooth off from the cams anfter the belt is tensioned. The manual shows the mark being one tooth off.
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