Question about the o-ring on the rear turbo IC pipe
When the o-ring is installed correctly should it sit completely inside the turbo outlet and not be visible?
Also, what size o-ring should be used with the DN hardpipes? I used a 2 inch OD thick ring and I think it rolled up the IC pipe when I was re-installing the rear IC pipe as it's 3/4 inside the turbo outlet and 1/4 out.
Re: Question about the o-ring on the rear turbo IC pipe
Yeah, it should be out of sight. Also, I went ahead and got some factory o-rings, they're a pain to find in the right size anywhere but from the factory from my experience. I've heard of people heating the o-ring a little and sliding it in using a little bit of oil, but I'm not sure on its effectiveness.
Matt
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1991 VR-4 - Stock - Crashed by a friend and totalled.
1993 VR-4 - 11.76@119, 11.77@122 - Sold to a new, appreciative owner.
Re: Question about the o-ring on the rear turbo IC pipe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve3kgt
When the o-ring is installed correctly should it sit completely inside the turbo outlet and not be visible?
Also, what size o-ring should be used with the DN hardpipes? I used a 2 inch OD thick ring and I think it rolled up the IC pipe when I was re-installing the rear IC pipe as it's 3/4 inside the turbo outlet and 1/4 out.
Do you still have the stock o-ring? if yes, use that, that will work. Some people say that the stock o-ring is too big to fit ont he DN IC pipe, but the trick is to coat the turbo housing with vasoline and smear a nice glob around the o-ring itself when it's on the pipe. The CAREFULLY use a flathead screwdriver to push the o-ring as far into the turbo housing while pushing the IC pipe on. The o-ring should fit snug into the little lip built inside the housing and thats where you need the screw driver to make sure it's flush. Make sure to install this end first instead of the other end that connects to the drivers side intercooler.
If the one you have right now is too big, others have used a dremel tool to shave some of the material off or I don't see why you cant take a knife and shave some of the material off.
All in all, it's not hard to do. If you can hear a loud leak or "pshhhhhing" sound when you're on the gas, it's pretty obvious that you have a leak.
Re: Question about the o-ring on the rear turbo IC pipe
I have one of the factory ones, but it seemed to be to thick to be used on my DN IC pipes, I'm going to go ahead and give the vaseline a try. I can hear a pssh when on the gas...
Thanks for the help guys and for confirming that I still need to mess with that o-ring... =)
Re: Question about the o-ring on the rear turbo IC pipe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve3kgt
I have one of the factory ones, but it seemed to be to thick to be used on my DN IC pipes, I'm going to go ahead and give the vaseline a try. I can hear a pssh when on the gas...
Thanks for the help guys and for confirming that I still need to mess with that o-ring... =)
hey bud, if you do a search on my name + hardpipe you'll see that I posted a FAQ on all this. But use the stocker. Yes it will seem like it's too big, but with enough coaxing and lube, you should be able to get it in nice and tight. (get your mind out of the gutter. )
Re: Question about the o-ring on the rear turbo IC pipe
If an o-ring is installed incorrectly, would you see a drop off like say you hit 14psi and it comes back down to maybe 13psi, then fluctuate back up?
or would the boost not even get that high?
Im trying to determine a problem ive always had.
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Joey Vargas Created By: TitleistGTO Credit: Robbz car at Robbz.com
12.48 at 110mph at 15.5psi (17.0 spike) -Boost Leak
Re: Question about the o-ring on the rear turbo IC pipe
along with my vacuume and boost leaks, I have had sometimes "poppy" boost, where boost will rise, hang, then pop to a higher pressure. I think that this might be happening in part due to the leaks as well as plugs / wires. I have 3 accel wires and 3 magnecore wires (dont ask, going with IPO MSD superconductors soon) going to NGK copper plugs with about 15,000 miles on them.
Not sure if your having the same issues.
My question is once I fix all the boost and vacuume leaks am I going to see a faster spool time from my DR-650's?
Re: Question about the o-ring on the rear turbo IC pipe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve3kgt
. I have 3 accel wires and 3 magnecore wires (dont ask, going with IPO MSD superconductors soon) going to NGK copper plugs with about 15,000 miles on them.
My question is once I fix all the boost and vacuume leaks am I going to see a faster spool time from my DR-650's?
im gonna ordre those wires soon...great deal! ummm new copper plugs are good and yes you should see faster spool time when u get all the leaks fixed. spool time is always better on a car that is running "right"
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Daily driver - 94 Acura Integra LS New tires, drilled/slotted rotors, Axxis performance pads 92 vr4 - Go - Custom Turbos, turbobob 8k rpm ecu, pro boost mbc, EK2 downpipe, testpipe, front precat elim, custom dual catback exhaust, dsm 450's, maximal solid motor mounts, short shifter, gated shifter plate, HKS SSQV BOV, Matrix air filter, 3sx aluminum crank pulley, hotwired walbro 255, EK2 fuel rail loop, AEM AFPR, braided fuel lines, RPS 6 puck sprung hub, forged crank, balanced rotating assembly, completely rebuilt tranny, FAL slimline fans, PWR alum. radiator, Earls oil cooler and lines
Suspension - Toyo Proxes, 17x9 5Zigen FN01R-C, Eibach pro kit
Electronics - , greddy turbo timer, autometer boost/air fuel/fuel press./oil press. gauges, Apexi SAFC-2, Optima Red Top
Car for sale - 92 VR4 for saleFor Sale (with reasonable offers) - NX Direct port nitrous. 4 Billet fuel / nitrous rails, 4 new solenoids, all stainless fuel/nitrous lines. Not for the faint of heart! Im never going to use it. as seen here http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Catalog/2005/sharknozzle.pdf Also for sale - Garage cleanout thread
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