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#1 (permalink) |
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Loves Me
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Ok I think I was getting spark blowout last year on my car, even though my boost isn't turned up yet. I think I need new plugs. With my mods, what should I get, and what should the gap be? I was thinking about the NGK iridium, but I dont know which stage to get.I have stock turbos currently. Also what do the plugs come gapped at? How hard is it to regap them, since I want to do it once and not have to redo it all since it doesnt look easy to change them.
Thanks!
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Minellvr4 is the gayest guy in the world.
95 StealthTT--Highly Modified -For Sale http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=386043 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Iridium plugs dont do anything to add power. The thing with Iridium plugs is that that can hold up using a smaller electrode with less electrical resistance, this requires less power from your coil to ignite at its peak efficiency. The only difference is that they require less voltage to spark, appx 0.6V to be exact. Bosch is in development with an IrOdium plug which requires even less, about .4V, but they are having problems with durability. The result of using the iridium plugs with your stock ignition would be the same as using normal spark plugs with and MSD box. Nice, but not justified with the cost.
For performance, the best plugs would be along the lines of the NGK or Champion (yes I said Champion) split V's, BUT the don't last nearly as long. If you want durabilitym then a double platinum plug will keep you from taking your upper intake off 50k miles down the road. If money is no object and you want the performance, durability and low power requirements, then wait about a month or two for Autolite to come out with their new iridiums. They are going to be the end all cadillac of plugs. but still not worth the cash is your on a normal persons budget and don't mind spending some quality time under the hood of your pride and joy. PS Gap the, between 32 and 34. its not hard, just get a 99cent gapper (or feeler gauges) and slide it between the electrodes, read the number where it stops and that's your gap. If the number is greater than 34 then tap the protruding electrode lightly until you get your desired gap. If the number is LESS than 32, then use the flanged hole in the gapper to safely pull the electrode away from the terminal without damaging any other part of the plug. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Warning: I'm an asshole
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Quote:
__________________
1992 3000GT VR4
![]() ![]() --Completely rebuilt 5/06-4/07. Everything new. For a list see: http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=372579 --First time on dyno: 364AWHP@16psi with a 10.3AFR (now tuned at 11.4-11.6 with timing control, time for another dyno run soon) --Mods: DR Stage I heads, 3rd gen lifters, TD04L 13Gs, DSM SMICs, PTE 550s, Apexi SAFC, Apexi SITC, Walbro FP, IPO hotwire, Robbeck adapter & AEM FPR, 3SX underhood fuel gauge, 3SX fuel rail loop, DN Y-pipe, HKS SSQ BOV, K&N FIPK, Greddy Profec Spec S, AEM WB02, Autometer C2 boost, egt, oil press & water temp gauges, MSD wires, NGK BCP7ES's, TEIN FLEX coilovers, Maximal performance control arms, solid engine mounts & powdercoating, RPS Streetmax Clutch, RPS Flywheel, NBT Tranny (cryotreated OS, shift forks & rails), updated speedo gear, solid shifter bushings, full 2nd gen brake conversion, 3SX SS brake & clutch lines, Carbotech Panther+ pads in the front & Bob Cats in the rear, 3SX clutch vac delete, EGR delete, vac reduction, Ebay DP, gutted pre cats, Bronze FN01RCs 5Zigen 18x8.5 + 30 offset, Pirelli P-Zeros, engine dress up kit, Bigtyla ground wire kit. --Daily Driver: 98 Malibu, 4cyl, auto |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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NGK Coppers. I'm using BCP6ES right now, but I'll be going to BCP7ES later on. Less than $15 for all 6 at Oriely's.
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On the car:
- Titan Bending TD05 Headers / O2 Housings (8/19/2006) - TD05 E16G's Braided feeds/returns (03/04/2007) - DSM SMIC's - Precision Turbo 680 CC Injectors - E2K Fuel Loop - E-Manage Blue w/ ignition Harness - Custom 3'' exhaust from turbos back (T-Pros DP) - Magnacore Wires - 3SX Braided break lines, Carbotech Vented and Slotted Rotors, and Hawk Pads - SBC-iD III Boost Controller - K&N FIPK - Ebay Y-pipe (shinny) - GTO MR Gears / 5 spd rear end (Installed 07/18/2005) - RPS Max Street Disc - 120K and Rod/Main Bearings (Finished 12/16/2005) - Walbro 255 lph f/p 13C Turbo Track Times (stock fuel): -13.2 @ 104, 1.86 60' (10.5 PSI - Took out jack/spare/rear and pass seats) -12.9 @ 106, 1.84 60' (12.3 PSI - slipping clutch, small boost leak, FULL INTERIOR) |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Warning: I'm an asshole
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Quote:
Looks like from your mod list you don't need a colder plug right now. Here are some stock temp plugs: http://www.importpoweronline.com/cat...=32_35_362_363 The PFR6J-11 are the stock platinum plugs. The cheaper ones above the iridiums are copper. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Play that Funky Music
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Quote:
1 step colder
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AEM Factory Trained Tuner
T4 AWD 9.21 @ 154.98 T2 FWD 10.19 @ 140.31 T4-159.23 MPH Ran on 6G72 3.1L! T4-995AWHP Uncorrected 6G72 3.0L C16 T2-820FWHP 3.1L 27psi C16 91VR4 Red-17Gs w/supporting mods-sold 93SLTT/T2 91VR4 Pearl White-sold 91VR4 Black-sold 92VR4 Sandstone-sold 94VR4 Green-sold 93VR4 Pearl White-sold 91VR4 Black-5027s-3.0L-Stock heads and Cams- 625AWHP 557AWTQ uncorrected 24psi 102 octane Daily Driver 3SX Performance 3SX Performance Service Email |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Loves Me
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thanks IPO
should I go with a resistor or not with a resistor? So if I go with the ebc I should go one step colder. Also, does the copper perform just as well as the others (platinum and iridium), but just have to be changed sooner? I dont want downgrade from stock platinum to copper and save a few dollars but lose performance. what about wires? will the stock wires be fine, or should I change those while I am at it? What do I do about those? Thanks! |
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