![]() |
![]() |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Forum Member
|
ok so ive come to a coupple rodeblocks...
my heads are off the car right now. i am at the point where i need to put the cams in and i dont understand some things with the seals. 1) do the cams just spin in the cam caps?... assuming if yes i sould put some assembly lube in them... 2) also do i need to put some RTV on the cam caps? i believe the shop manual says something about putting it there but it is not clear 3) the seals that go by the t-belt sprokets.... do i just put some assembly lube in the lip of those and slide them on? is the cam sposed to spin in those seals... seems like it. 4) dose it matter where each of the rocker arms goes... they have different numbers on them 5) when i put the cams in i should possision them so that the timing mark on the sproket is in line with the timing mark on the valve cover correct? any and all help is appreciated... i would really like to finish this tonight so please respond asap... thanks so much, -adam
__________________
![]() |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) | |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
Quote:
The cam caps, if you mean the caps that bolt to the head with 2 12mm bolts on each end and 6 10mm bolts for the 3 in the middle, then yes, that is what the cam spins in, and some assembly lube in them. NO RTV HERE. You should get your timing marks close, but you won't be able to get one perfect because the cam will be in a spot where the valves need to be open. You don't want to bolt the cam down with one end all sticking up, so rotate it to a point where its semi-flat, but close to the mark, so once you get the caps bolted down, you can turn it to the correct position. Make sure you tighten the caps down evenly, and do a couple of steps before you torque them. If you mean the seals on the ends, no, they just keep the oil in the head, and yes, use some rtv on the edges before you press them into the caps. The ones on the gear side, yes, put a little oil on them, slide them onto the cam, and make sure they sit in their position in the head when you bolt the cam in. You should see where they sit in the head. After the cams are in, and you go to put your belt on, line your timing marks up, and use those big black clamp type paper clips to hold the belt onto each gear. That should keep them from springing back off your marks. This is all assuming that you lined all your marks up BEFORE you took it apart. Oh yeah, and I've always been told that roller rockers do not matter since they don't wear into the cam... someone can correct me if I'm wrong... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) | |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
Quote:
I usually mark them before I take them out (the front two anyway)Rear head - the intake will be the one with the slot to drive the cam sensor the exhaust is the other cam where the gear sticks out farther from the head. You notice that one set of cams has the a longer end where the gears are. For the front two, I'm not really sure, unless you have a micrometer and you can measure the back ones and compare the lobes to the front ones, since you can always figure the rear ones out. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
Forum Member
|
thank you both very much.
when i said cam caps i ment the black seals that go on the very ends of the cams... but i understand what you mean. also i have a new shortblock and new heads... so i never marked anything before i took them off. but to my understanding(correct me if im wrong) the way you set the timing is you line up the marks on the sprokets with the marks on the valve covers, and on the block you rotate the crank pully so that the t-belt sproket is lined up with the mark down there... then when you mate up the heads and block it should be set. also i have a 93... i thought the cam sensor was on the exhaust cam on the rear head... but its been so long since they were in my car so i dont remember. and i read some where that you can check by looking at the hexagonal part of the camshaft.. there should be either a "B" or a "V".... one for inlet, one for exhaust the only problem with that is mine have N's and J's there instead of A's and B's |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
Mine has a D on the exhaust and a B on the intake. That's on the front head, but mines a 92 VR-4. Also, I just double checked, and the cam sensor is definitely on the intake cam on the rear head.
As long as you line that crank gear up to the mark first, you'll be fine. I just didn't want to tell you to line your cams up, then try to spin the crank to line it up... You'd most likely run into some valves along the way ![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
Forum user
|
See sig for engine manual. it will answer all of your wildest dreams!?
![]()
__________________
Performance
6G72 Rebuilt w/ 3SX Stage 3 Heads (+1mm intake/exhaust) - ARP Headstuds, Wiseco 8.5:1 Forged Pistons & Kevlar Timing Belt - TD04 9B - Greddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost Controller – Greddy Turbo Timer - SSQV BOV - K&N FIPK - Dejon Tool Y-Pipe - Dejon Tool Intake Pipes - OEM 360cc Injectors - IPO Hotwire Kit - EK2 Fuel Rail Loop – eBay 3” Downpipe w/ custom Flex Section - IPO UD Pulley – RPS MAXX Street Clutch - Maximal Xcase Bracket - MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires - NGK Copper Plugs - Maximal Performance Front & Rear Solid Motor Mounts - 3SX EGR Block Off Plates - Vac. Reduction - AC Delete – Cruise Control Delete - ProSport Gauges (Boost, EGT) - Odyssey PC680 Under Fuse Box Sitting in garage: EVO 560cc Injectors - MAP ECU - WRX 13T Turbos - Krank Vents - Walbro 255 Suspension/Wheels/Brakes OEM 17” Chrome Wheels – 245/45/17 Michelin XGT Z4's Sitting in garage: RS*R Springs – Bilstein Struts – Maximal Adj Control Arms Exterior/Interior/Dress-up Autometer 2x52mm Gauge Pod - 99 Rear Center Garnish – Weevil Custom Boost Controller/Turbo Timer Mounting Plate – Snake Eyes Delete Sylvania Silverstar H4666ST – Powder Coated Upper/Lower Intake Manifold, Front/Rear Valve Covers, Y-Pipe, Waterneck, & Alternator Bracket 6G72 Engine Manual - M-Spec Vac Reduction Diagrams - My Picasa Web Album |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) |
|
Verified Seller
|
Install cam positioned according to the manual, also use assemble lube on lobes and journals.......see attached. Cams also have appropiate markings on them for Intake and Exhaust on hex portion of cam.
Make sure cam caps are in proper position, they marked either E or I - 1,2 3, 4 Cams get installed first and then seals are installed. Seals by cam gears get slightly oiled on inside rubber pressed in slightly below surface, flush with chamfer.. Black seals get some rtv around outside edge and pressed into place slightly below surface, flush with chamfer. ![]()
__________________
Last edited by oohnoo : 05-09-2008 at 05:18 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) | |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
Quote:
Unless they changed the placement of the sensor in 93. Mine's a 92 and it its on the rear intake cam... Since what you're saying is opposite of the book, I would try to get someone with a 93 or later to verify that on their car. |
|
|
|
|