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#721 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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AEM is something I'd definitely like to get. Only thing holding me back is the total cost involved, as I'd have to buy a laptop/carpc to go with it. Plus I've become very fond of my scanmaster, hardwired palm and other gimmicky items like active exhaust & ECS and I'm a little reluctant to give them up.
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'91 VR4 - Modlist: DR650R turbos, Snow stage 2D alky kit, DSM SMICs, blowthrough ported LT1 MAS, Dejon Tool intakes & y-pipe, Blitz DSBC Spec R, HKS SSQV BOV, PTE 580cc injectors, Dual feed fuel system with Aeromotive FPR & filter, Hotwired Supra pump, HKS DLI, MSD Wires, Apex'i S-AFC II, MAFTranslator, Turbobob ECU, Scanmaster III, LC-1 WBO2, ESP downpipe, Vac/EGR delete, Gutted precats and test pipe, Maximal solid mounts, 300m 18 spline output shaft, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, RPS flywheel, GC coilover conversions with helper springs, Powerslot slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines, Hawk pads (front), Stillen metal matrix pads (rear)
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#722 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
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#723 (permalink) |
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Forum user
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Bump.... Does anyone else have their ECU numbers? Please post if you do. You should be able to read the numbers without pulling the ECU. Just pull the sidewall cover on the passenger side and get a flash light.
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VR4-"FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY"
97 FWDTT Mods SOHC to 3.1L TT swap, ATX to 5-SPEED GETRAG, TE04H DR-19T's,Wiseco Forged Pistons, Custom FMIC, RPS MAX Street clutch,Tial BOV, Walbro 255,Custom Magnaflow 3'' exhaust,ATR DP,Custom FMIC,ATR DP,Catless, 3SX crank pulley, Emanage/E01, Derale fan controller, PTE 550 inj, AEM UEGO wideband, Re-located Optima Red Top,Krank Vents, EGR Blockoffs, MMCD logger, Stillen pads, drilled rotors, EibachPro springs, 3SX intake, intake hard pipes, IPO SX AFPR, 99 lifters,99 rear garnish, Racing Hart MP3 wheels,Snow Stg 2D Meth injection/Safe inj, http://www.hesspower.com/racecar.html |
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#724 (permalink) | |
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Forum user
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Quote:
It might sound insignifigant, but I completely recharged my red top. Reset the ECU and checked connections on the harness. I still got nothin ![]() |
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#726 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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I have been watching this and every other forum regarding this problem since I replaced my engine with a used Japan spec. engine 11 months ago. I found my problem yesterday and needless to say am very happy. The problem was bad spark plug wires even though they had been replaced new (Autozone or Advanced Auto junk) about 15000 miles ago. I found this by replacing the front three newer wires with the older ones that came with the used Japan engine and noticed a very slight improvement so I removed the plenum and replaced the back three wires with the remaining three older wires. The problem completely dissapeared.
The newer wires looked fine and had low miles on them so I tried everything else first and I mean everything, such as CAS, TPS, injectors (after cleaning and re-cleaning two different times), engine temp sensor, etc. from other engine and new spark plugs (twice), new high volume fuel pump, pump relay bypass and probably many other things I am forgetting. Also my old ECU failed (fire and smoke) so I replaced it with a new $900.00 ECU when the engine went in 11 months ago. In case you are wondering, yes I did check the capactiors about 8 months prior to the engine replacement but I suppose in the 3 months the car sat before the engine replacement they failed. The bottom line for my car was that even though it acted like a fuel problem it was ignition issues cause by bad spark plug wires. My plugs looked white, like a lean condition or lack of fuel but don't be tricked as it may not be the case. No doubt the ECU was making all kinds of incorrect adjustments caused by the faulty spark plug wires. It seems that no matter how new your spark plug wires are you should revisit the wires and replace them, particularly if you have tried everything else. Make sure you replace all six wires as murphay's law suggests more than one will be bad and some will be in the rear of the engine as was my case. Hope this post helps someone else as this problem is the worst I have ever seen in any cars I have owned or worked on. |
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#728 (permalink) |
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Forum user
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I have change my plugs and wires also. I don't even remember how many times now. I swapped the ECU and I still had the same problem and it's getting progressively worse. Today cruising around 70mph on my way home from work the car started to stutter badly. I'm going to order another new set of OEM coils this week.
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#729 (permalink) | ||||
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King Detail
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I tell ya what Dex. I just looked back at when the 1st post was and it was about 1.5 year ago. The only thing sadder than this problem is how long my car has sat (i guess almost 4 years), but recently there does seem to be light at the end of the tunnel however I'm finding I have a lot less enthusiasm to finish it up because I'm actually truly... afraid. I'm afraid that once its done something is going to rear its ugly head almost immediately or just be some damn nuisance not causing the car to run bad, but just something I don't like that would be cause for more work on it which would probably push me over the edge. This stuff truly is like having a girlfriend/wife with the love and ups/downs n all that wacky stuff.
Here's what I was thinking. I no longer believe this is an electrical problem and I include the entire ignition system in it when I say that. To me from what I can tell the AEM ECU would be the last electrical try aside from testing every wire for continuity, resistance, and volts throughout the entire engine bay. In any case I'm saying - why not stop and take the entire damn thing apart. The engine I mean. Remove it all and inspect it under a sharp close eye and even maybe a MAGNIFYING glass. Measure the parts for spec limits and record everything on some paper as you go. Come back at the end and compare all the notes (short of something you notice physically wrong) and see if something is out of spec limits or near it. I can't recall, but you aren't using this car anyway right? Why not just rip'er up at this point and this way you will have touched every single mechanical part inside the engine to know for sure "what da f__k". It would suck, it would be long and drawn out, but in the end you'd finally know SOMETHING new 1 way or another. If I lived near ya I'd come help, but tis not the case. lol - Or pay someone who is meticulous to do it, but only with the agreement that you want to know everything so it can benefit everyone else too. I know my suggestion is extreme and maybe due to time/money isn't possible, but at this point its just too much. Its a damn knife twistin in yer side. ![]()
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#730 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Thanks for the suggestion, but I just don't have the time or the money to do it. I am still a full time student and my VR4 is my daily driver. I never thought I'd say this, but I've learnt to drive around the problem/deal with it. Don't get me wrong, it does annoy the hell out of me and I'm not giving up. I just need to pace myself, with various experiments/repairs, otherwise this problem would have driven me crazy along time ago. Plus, I can't think of anything that would be more frustrating than taking the entire motor apart, finding nothing wrong and then putting it back together...
![]() At the moment, I'm holding out for the results of the AEM install before I proceed any further. Markoverclock: How are things coming along with your AEM install? Any news? |
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