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#671 (permalink) |
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Resident mad scientist
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does it help spark blow-out?
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#672 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Edited:I think it probably does as I don't even have a hint of spark blow out up to 26 psi with AFRs of ~ 11.5. I've also noticed I'm able to burn through much richer AFRs (~10.5) while trying to get my WOT tune safely dialed in.
The thing I believe has helped the most with spark blow out is iridium plugs (gapped to .028). Prior to switching to iridiums, I was running coppers and I'd have bad blow out (even with a tiny gap of .026).
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'91 VR4 - Modlist: DR650R turbos, Snow stage 2D alky kit, DSM SMICs, blowthrough ported LT1 MAS, Dejon Tool intakes & y-pipe, Blitz DSBC Spec R, HKS SSQV BOV, PTE 580cc injectors, Dual feed fuel system with Aeromotive FPR & filter, Hotwired Supra pump, HKS DLI, MSD Wires, Apex'i S-AFC II, MAFTranslator, Turbobob ECU, Scanmaster III, LC-1 WBO2, ESP downpipe, Vac/EGR delete, Gutted precats and test pipe, Maximal solid mounts, 300m 18 spline output shaft, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, RPS flywheel, GC coilover conversions with helper springs, Powerslot slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines, Hawk pads (front), Stillen metal matrix pads (rear)
Last edited by DoctorDex : 04-05-2008 at 10:26 PM. |
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#673 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Does anybody with this problem still have a working EGR system?
I've tried disconnecting/reconnecting the EGR in the past and it didn't seem to do anything. However, I recently noticed the throttle body nipples where I had connected the EGR solenoid is plugged, so it didn't matter whether the EGR system was hooked up or not, it still wasn't working. |
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#674 (permalink) |
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Wanted: Traction Problems
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not me.
Ive been driving my car a little more, and noticed a few things... 1)like I said, I no longer notice a bad spot at 2800, its just low on power untill after that rpm. 2)at idle, I swear I can hear the miss. 3)I have seen a few counts of knock in this area while under vac (<0psi) 4)an abnormaly noisy valvetrain
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#675 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
1) I still have a lean spot, which starts at 2500+rpm and goes to 3000+rpm. I notice less power in this range, it misses and then it takes off after 3000rpm. 2) My idle will be rock solid on cold start (when it is warming up in the morning). However, once I drive the car for awhile and then I let it idle, I can definitely hear a miss and the idle tends to fluctuate more than at cold start as a result. 3) I see a few counts of knock through 2500 - 3000rpm multiple times per day. 4) Valvetrain noise Rear > Front. Last edited by DoctorDex : 04-09-2008 at 09:59 PM. |
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#676 (permalink) | |
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Wanted: Traction Problems
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Quote:
2)cold start, haha. its too warm here to confirm 3)same here 4)I cant pinpoint the location of my noise, maby both VC's |
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#677 (permalink) |
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Resident mad scientist
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My car does this, somewhat.
2500 - 3000 seems to be the range. It looks lean sometimes when watching the O2 trim, but I think there is a misfire happening that is fooling the O2 sensor. I think the leanness is false. (the methanol spray test not-withstanding) It clears up abruptly at 3000 RPM. My car is stock fuel, MAFT Pro, closed loop, 13G's. Bob |
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#678 (permalink) | ||||
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King Detail
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You guys may want to check this out. This dude may have inadvertently solved this problem. Would be good if so.
His original problem stated (hesitation sputtering, but clears after 3000rpm): Hesitation, sputtering, peice of Crap. Here's the fix just posted tonight: Hesitation, sputtering, peice of Crap. So I'm gonna ask him which piston. Have ya'll inspected your pistons thoroughly already? I haven't checked your list in a while.
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#679 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
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#680 (permalink) |
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King Detail
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Are you saying thats what fixed yours?
Just for an FYI for me.... whats the difference in forged pistons vs stock ones? What does it mean when people say "forged" ahead of something regarding engines etc... mechanical stuff.. Yes, I know thats a newbie kinda question, but I don't have forged pistons so I don't know. lol |
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