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#12 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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The thing is, is that I can replicate run after run. It always seems to do the same thing. This leads me to think its not a bad connection.
I've been thinking maybe I could have a stuck wastegate, or worst case scenario, bad rings on my rear bank? Does anybody know how bad rings present?
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'91 VR4 - Modlist: DR650R turbos, Snow stage 2D alky kit, DSM SMICs, blowthrough ported LT1 MAS, Dejon Tool intakes & y-pipe, Blitz DSBC Spec R, HKS SSQV BOV, PTE 580cc injectors, Dual feed fuel system with Aeromotive FPR & filter, Hotwired Supra pump, HKS DLI, MSD Wires, Apex'i S-AFC II, MAFTranslator, Turbobob ECU, Scanmaster III, LC-1 WBO2, ESP downpipe, Vac/EGR delete, Gutted precats and test pipe, Maximal solid mounts, 300m 18 spline output shaft, Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, RPS flywheel, GC coilover conversions with helper springs, Powerslot slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines, Hawk pads (front), Stillen metal matrix pads (rear)
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#13 (permalink) |
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Wheels In Hand...
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If your seeing knock and seeing timing pulled then I doubt its the o2 at fault.
*EDIT*: how much knock are you seeing? If that o2 is accurate I would bet its ALOT @ WOT.
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Personal Best:
1995 Stealth TT - 11/17/2006 - 1.759 60' / 11.978 @ 116.08 MPH - UNDER CONSTRUCTION Building the 19T record! |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
I pulled the downpipe to verify the lean condition and my rear bank is white (very lean) whereas my front bank is black (rich). Anybody have any suggestions or ideas? Declan |
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#15 (permalink) |
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220K club
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Jeesh_ relax kids_ think horses not zebras when you hear the hoofbeats pounding close.
rear bank runs leaner and_ it has newer O2 sensor. 1st: when those O2 sensors start to go, they read richer then reality, so they lean the fuel out. The log suggests it is working okay as there aren't the O2 dips before going leaner ( correct?) if so_ then when not under higher fuel psi, she runs leaner. And it is not always exactly the same but fairly close each time. Runs fine when she has more fuel psi like at boost? , as in when rpms are going to be above5000 or more can mean that when NOT under boost, the rear injector or all three even, can have some spray pattern irregularities_ minor clogging. But>..don't forget the obvious other factor.....a poor fuel pressure regulator that is not maintaining enough fuel psi is letting too much fuel by- pass back to the tank, coupled with less then perfect spray injectors..well? Try this before going nuts with new parts_ one can of really good Injector cleaner that doesn't leave future residual build up. then get a nice new cheap OEM regulator unless you of course already have an adjustable regulator.....if so, try the injector cleaner first and check check check the O2 sensor's connector , specifically the green wire which is the O2signal wire's ground. Curious to see which thing was the culprit.
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'92 R/T TT 236 K mileage club
AEM EMS, Twin TD-O5 MHI EVO 16G, Electronics: AEM ems, FJO dual WBO2, GaugeTech AEM ems display, custom made EL type main gauge faces, [/size] |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I'm curious if the screwy voltages I'm seeing on my rear bank could be caused by a leaking EGR valve. You'd think if an egr valve was leaking, boost would be pouring into the exhaust, up until the point the back pressure from the exhaust equalized with boost pressure (6000+ rpm @ WOT). This would explain why I see a lean rear bank that seems to be proportionate to the amount of boost. I disconnected my EGR to see if this would fix the problem and this seems to have made the problem worse.
I'm going to try an EGR blockoff to see if this fixes the problem. Declan |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Getrag Wrestler
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Before spending money on the blockoff plates, run to a auto store (or a Harbor Freight if you have one there) and get a "brake bleeder & hand vac pump" kit. I got one for like 20-25 bucks and it has a gauge on it.
With this you can test the wastegates, egr valve and every other solenoid on the car. It also gives you the capability to trace down leaks that you can't even hear. (My boost gauge was leaking pretty bad, but I couldnt even hear it at all, )Back to the EGR valve...the passages should remain sealed at rest. I believe it should start to open the needle around 1.2 in/Hg...I'll have to verify that. And also it should hold vac steady at about 16 in/Hg +
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Hi my name's Nate and I've been addicted to boost for four years now...
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#20 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I tried some other runs today, with and without the EGR connected. However, I didn't do back-to-back-to-back runs so there could other factors affecting the results. Here is what I found:
EGR connected with 7psi Boost - No lean condition EGR connected with 12psi Boost - No lean condition EGR connected with 16psi Boost - Lean rear bank EGR disconnected with 7 psi boost - lean rear bank EGR disconnected with 12 psi boost - lean rear bank EGR disconnected with 16 psi boost - lean rear bank. These results lead me to think that my EGR is leaking boost into my exhaust. The problem seems to be worse when I disconnect the EGR. With the EGR disconnected it _should_ be closed all the time, but this does not seem to be the case. I guess the only way to confirm this theory is to do a pressure test and then unbolt the EGR pipe from the back of the intake to see if boost is leaking out of the EGR valve. I don't have time to do this at the moment, but I will try and get around to testing this theory next weekend. Declan |
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