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help new modified 91 vr4: stalled out and wont start and idle now

2K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  stealthtuner83 
#1 ·
I just bought this car:

http://www.3si.org/forum/f10/93-vr4-...des-8k-648593/

It runs and seems to work pretty good there are just some minor odds and ends i need help figuring out.

ac still doesnt work but i keep trying things and ruling them out so sooner or later somethings got to give.

update the car stalled the other day. it would go and then die down to where you are almost flooring it and it barely goes and slows down then it would kick back in and out until it died completely. now it will turn over and 'start' but you can get it running for more than .5 seconds, it starts and dies.

it did something very similiar to this before and it turns out the silicone hose that goes to the BOV came off the pipe (aftermarket) to where it was literally just haning there disconnected. connected it and the car started running fine.

the difference is tho that the next day after the first incident, tho it behaved so poorly the night before the next day it started basically right up, i just had to hold the gas a little. then after a few minutes i could let off the pedal and it wouldnt die. it just ran rich/lean, def not 15.0 afr like usual on the wideband. just go lean then rich, say for example 11.5-17.5

after that little escapade it worked 'fine' when the bov was reconnected. idled pretty good, drove ok. but i had a feeling it was never quite back where it should be completely. AFR isnt a solid 15 like before. it flucuates some. not much but some. throttle response lags from time to time.

and the Fuel pressure regulator (fpr) has been ticking ever since i got the car. it seems to randomly tick. i can attempt to make it tick by giving it just a little gas and sometimes that like make it go tick tick tick tick tick tick tick.

what should the fpr read? at idle? revved?

what should the oil pressure read? idle? revved?

i think it certainly could be a boost leak again. but maybe it was 2 things all along.

but it drove fine for a few days. took it for some joyrides, didnt really get on it much. and the other day it did what i said and acted up. now it wont start and idle.

i think there is a boost leak somewhere but cant seem to find it. i disconnected the battery in hopes to rest the ecu.

i also think there is something off with the fuel/oil pressure. the fpr ticks every few minutes a little bit pretty much everytime i drive.

the oil pressure seems to be a little lower than maybe it used to be. 30-60 at idle. 90 when revved. more like 30 lately at idle.

fuel pressure just trying to remember but like 30-45 at idle.

thoughts? no i dont think its a serious issue. car seems to drive ok before. fpr used to always be just around 15.0, unless you floor it, then more like 11.5-12.5

i know its something small.

how can i adjust the fpr? there is a little hes screw but idk if it does anything.

input?
 
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#2 ·
93 vr4 sorry. but idk how to edit post titles. dont see an option to.
 
#4 ·
ya i think that would be a good idea. but we dont have a compressor and cash is tight. it might see if i can figure something out tho. boost leak test would def be helpful. assuming thats the same thing
 
#5 ·
any thoughts on the oil/fuel pressure? the fpr ticking?
 
#6 ·
There is a lot of information on this forum. All you need to do is go to the top of the page where it says google custom search in a little box. Do a search. Simple.

Oil pressure when at not 15-20psi at idle, plus 10 psi per 1000rpm
Fuel pressure 43.5psi at 0 vac
Do a boost leak test.

To be honest you bought a modified 20year old car and seem to be lacking in knowledge on vehicles. If I were you I would take it to one of the main vendors and get them to go over it.
 
#8 ·
mb can u explain a bit how i would perform a pressure test with any of this?

well this isnt my first modified car. i turned a wrx into and sti, had a custom tune, etc. but i also had some help with the more complicated things by a subaru tuning shop called turn in concepts. unfortunately i dont have any money right now so for the time being im on my own. plus they wont be able to help me AS MUCH as before bc they knew subarus like the back of their hand. IPS is out of the questions for now and too expensive.

what i need is a local who knows these cars well and is willing to help for compensation but not high compensation.
 
#9 ·
i would need some sor t of adapter to plug into the air intake would i not? and then should i attempt from another point? im just not sure ill hear anything over a loud pump, also. and a gauge would be helpful.

ive seen a local mechanic use a hand pump and connect to something like a t-connector to pressure check small vac lines.
 
#10 ·
update. tried to start the car the battery was dead. i didnt leave anything on to my knowledge. but the car has an alarm that blinks all day and night. perhaps over a week that drained it all the way.

bad ground somewhere? im horrible at checking for those tho other than from the battery.

charged the car enough to crank it and it would crank fine but would not turn over. thoughts about this specifically? or in relation to my other problems?

the car was built from the ground up and most everything on it is new or good.
 
#11 ·
input??
 
#12 ·
input?

maybe the plugs fouled out after getting to rich a mixture and are covered with carbon or something?
 
#13 ·
bump..
 
#15 ·
ive finally gotten some local help from a 3s guy and were getting somewhere i think.

we located a fuel issue. when checking out the pump we saw one of the screws wasnt fully tight. its one that should connect beneath the fuel pump cover and on top at two points (nuts i believe), remember the fuel gauge registers nothing so it could be related. when reinstalling it started leaking fuel from that fuel pump cover. the gasket looked old too. but it was leaking from the nut. we couldnt get the dang thing out (fuel pump and cover. you have to rotate it a certain way and either we couldnt find the sweet spot or something else is connected or both. we looked online and on youtube and didnt find anyone actually pulling the fuel pump and cover in a video or with pics so we didnt get much help. were going to look at it again today.

we got the car running but its afr is still a little unstable. it will stay around 15 but move from 10-18 of the wideband. randomly. while driving it alsmost died out. it ran close to fine for a few minutes and then the same thing, you are flooring it and it is barely going, and sometimes a little more than others. then we heard the sound of alot of air moving (leak likely) and barely made it home. it died out a couple times. it will start and run rough.

we are HIGHLY suspicious the driving and idling is a boost leak and something came undone or loose. but we also need to address the fuel leak and fuel gauge not working. obviously fuel leak first.

ill keep you posted and feel free to comment.
 
#16 ·
Comments ?

Input on getting the fuel pump assembly out easily?
 
#17 ·
they dont come out easy at all. rough run... check the timing. check all six cylinders for spark. clean out the fuel filter. clean the injectors. pull the plugs and test them. compression leakdown test. and check fuel pressure the whole time its being run to see if its constant. the cheapest boost leak issue i had i fixed with new vacuum lines. maybe check your lines against a map? ive seen them be messed up before...
 
#18 ·
ok sparks everything was fine but a boost leak and a fuel leak. the fuel leak didnt start until we got into the fuel pump area and a bolt wouldnt retighten right. but the fuel leak fixed.

found out the stalling out issue was a massive boost leak. really needed a compression test to find it right away but without a running car, no compressor and no idea how to do it myslelf i just had to look around.

one of the hoses thats part of the turbo system (silicone) goes behind and below the radiator, couldnt even see it until i really put my head way in the engine bay, and it was just sitting above the lip of the hard pipe with no clamp connecting it. i think it got more loose and losoe until it popped all the way off. bc i would have seen it before, i looked down there awhile ago.

anyways car ran fine for 100 miles so far. i would leak to boost leak test just for small ones, but i would like to get a tune.

its running chrome ecu, tuning with flashecu, and logging with evoscan. but idk anything about any of them. thats just how its been setup. it was a OTS tune to run, but its not dialed in to make the most of the mods.
 
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