Do you need to bypass the resistor by installing the jumper wire or can you just rewire the fuel pump and leave the resistor intact as it is stock, does it make any difference. If you don't do the resistor bypass mod will the fuel pump still work right. Or do you have to do it?
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Do you need to bypass the resistor by installing the jumper wire or can you just rewire the fuel pump and leave the resistor intact as it is stock, does it make any difference. If you don't do the resistor bypass mod will the fuel pump still work right. Or do you have to do it?
If you hotwire the pump without bypassing the resistor, the partially-connected relay will backfeed noise to your ECU, resulting in garbage values in your logs and potentially other anomalies.
I have a hotwired supra pump with the relay and resistor still functioning.
I kept them to keep from over running the stock fuel pressure regulator that many people warned me would happen if I hotwired my supra pump.
The downsides are that some people will say that when the relay flips, you lose power to the pump, and it can no longer keep up, and the car will hick-up when going into boost.
my car did not do that. perhaps eliminated through tuning, or by the fact that the relay was brand new, or perhaps because that I wasn't running huge turbos at the time (DR500s)
I have also heard about and seen the junk packets that the data loggers get. this seems to only be an issue in hybirds, but once again my car did not suffer this problem.
I don't think it really matters, if your concerned about using it, skip it, and bump your idle up to 900 rpm.
I have a hotwired supra pump with the relay and resistor still functioning.
Hotwiring involves a heavy gauge lead run from the battery directly to the fuel pump that is switched by a relay connected to the stock fuel pump power lead. If the pump is being powered by two voltages, then it's not hotwired.
Correction to my previous post: in a hotwire setup, the stock relay isn't "partially connected," it's partially loaded, since it's switching the relay rather than driving the pump.
one that powers the pump with the path running throw the resistor. the other a path that goes straight to the pump. both use a really tiny wire.
My car has the stock relay with two positions.
the first is the path running throw the resistor, with the original wire.
The second path, it trips a second relay, which feeds the pump power directly from the batter on a large gauge wire that I installed myself from the battery to the pump.
The stock relay has two positons.
one that powers the pump with the path running throw the resistor. the other a path that goes straight to the pump. both use a really tiny wire.
My car has the stock relay with two positions.
the first is the path running throw the resistor, with the original wire.
The second path, it trips a second relay, which feeds the pump power directly from the batter on a large gauge wire that I installed myself from the battery to the pump. no garbage packets.
That would be rewiring directly to the battery using a new relay. Also i dont know if it really matters that i over run the stock FPR because i have an AEM EMS and i can adjust the fuel at idle and all that good stuff. Also my idle has always been around 900-1100 rpm since i have had the car when it was bone stock.
Here is the full read from 316 .... http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump-rewire.htm It seems fairly simiple from what i understand. I see that when he did the resistor bypass it picked up like 0.11 volts which isn't very many. In the way that he rewires it to me shows that hes making a new circut to eliminate the stock wiring configuration other than the harness.
Also i dont know if it really matters that i over run the stock FPR because i have an AEM EMS
Regardless of controller, it may be difficult to tune the car if the stock FPR is unable to maintain a constant fuel pressure to the injectors.
YMMV, but general consensus seems to be that if you go with the Supra pump, then it should be hotwired, and if you have a hotwired pump, then you should have an AFPR.
Regardless of controller, it may be difficult to tune the car if the stock FPR is unable to maintain a constant fuel pressure to the injectors.
YMMV, but general consensus seems to be that if you go with the Supra pump, then it should be hotwired, and if you have a hotwired pump, then you should have an AFPR.
Im am going to use the RDR Erik Gross rewire. His way makes it so at idle and low load crusing it use's low voltage like stock then when you get into WOT it will go up to 13.5 - 13.8 system voltage. It looks very easy to due and won't over run the stock FPR at idle.
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Fuel Pump Rewire Resistor Bypass
