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#1 (permalink) |
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Minister of Happiness
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It started 6 months ago, car would only make 9psi, then 6 then 4 then 2 then 1 now 0psi.
I built a boost leak tester, fixed a lot of little leaks, nothing major though, rear IC o-ring is good, Y-pipe is good. Wastegates checked for operation, I can hear rear open and close, front one moves, not a lot but it does, if anything it would be stuck closed. I have a HKS SSbov, input line attacked to T-junction, manifold pressure and it goes to the Greddy profec B, I'm not sure this is right. I'm wondering if the BOV might be leaking? I can't find leaks on the intercooler or anywhere other then little ones, is it supposed to hold pressure indefinatly with no leaks in an ideal situation? I'm totally lost, been at this for 2 months now, sometimes I get 1psi, but not often anymore, I've tried everything I can think off. Any suggestions?
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1993 3000GT VR-4
*new Front end* *Waiting for Paint, some decent mods* 1990 Toyota Celica GTS A real great Handling, fun machine! |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Minister of Happiness
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I pulled the intake pipe at least on the front and the impeller moves really smoothly, haven't checked the rear, no wierd noises, no surging, no bucking, just runs like an N/A champ! and Tiny blowoff valve noises.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Someone else's mistakes
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I had the zero boost problem too. You could plug off your blow off valve to be sure for testing. What exactly happens when you pressure test. My rear turbo oring was `leaking ,(REAL BAD). I also had very bad throttle body seals too. One day though it just came back out of nowhere. It was freaky. Not sure what the cause was, but mine was NOT turbo related.
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DR650R's, supra fuel pump hotwired and aem fuel pressure regulator with bob beck adapter, addicted performance front mount intercooler and piping, ceramin coated inside and out, ebay knockoff DN headers, cusom stillen downpipe, Borla catback, precision turbo 550cc injectors, RPS MAX series clutch, street disc, and RPS segmented aluminum flywheel, 3sx braided stainless turbo feed and return lines, 3sx braided clutch line, fidanza adjustable cam gears, arc2 fuel controller with ford MAS, greddy E-manage blue for fine tuning and timind control, Greddy profec E-01 for boost control, AEM widemand O2, arm-1 narrow band o2, autometer boost gauge, HKS ssqv with custom recirc adapter, 3sx fuel rail adapter.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Yeah, one turbo can definately cause no boost. I was searching for hours to find out why the turbo vr4 i just bought (I bought john3000gtvr4's vr4) wouldnt boost after my father and i replaced the head gasket along with a lot of other things. . It turned out to be only the front turbo, so we put in a stock 9b and its boosting like a champ.
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- Hung N.
best time - 15.563 @ 90.64mph go-atx-mtx conv. intake arm,intake filter,borla exhaust, underdrive pulley,topline engineering ground wires, jet performance ecu, show-eibach springs,snake eyes,push button start to be installed: safcii, gtech, testpipe to be bought: decent clutch,datalogger w/m515, paint job |
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#8 (permalink) |
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3SX FTL
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What model boost gauge are you using? Have you tried a known good gauge?
Have you eliminated the EBC and attempted to run straight wastegate pressure? Have you pulled the WG signal lines and attempted to run without boost control? Obviously you'll want to do this very carefully: pull your signal lines, get out on the road, and pull partway through a gear. Watch your boost gauge and lift as soon as you see the needle swing up. The whole thing should take you not even a quarter of a mile. Better to do these 3 things before worrying that your turbochargers are broken. Clint
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The Pansy Patrol
1995 3000GT VR-4 but real niggaz don't give a fuck: V1, comprehensive denastificizzle, vishizzous accessory biznelt mod, K&N, Greddy Profec B S-P-to-tha-izzec II, S-AFC, Walbro 341, DSM 450s, n AEM UEGO; battery relocizzle K-R-to-tha-izzank Vents, EK2MFG fizzle rizzle loop n plenum spaca, lethal_vr4 manual gang bangin' rizzay, SKVR4 AWS delete, polyurethane motor mounts, adjustable control arms, SS brakes lines, n EGR blockoffs; Custom brakes lines wit cockpit-mounted adjustable proportion'n valve, 332mm Stoptechs, Carbotech Brotha Plus/Porterfield Rizzle ATE Pusha Blue, OZ Gang Bangin' F1 Plus 17x9.5 +36mm, Yokohama AVS ES100 275/40/17, Tein Fizzle w/EDFC n SCE Casta/Camba Plates, SCE oilpan, DSM sidemounts, DN Precat Eliminizzles 13G/9B combo (9psi springs), J-spec final drive, RPS flyhweel n Spec II clutch, IPO propane, ATR downpipe, tizzest pipe, n Single Shot1994 Mazda Protege DX: 253K miles, DOHC 1.8L swap, rear disc brake conversion, poorly-designed header, some cheap-ass suspension upgrades, Carbotech Panther Plus, Miata wheels, other crap here and there, arguably the fastest piece of shit in New England and no one can do anything about it ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Minister of Happiness
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I have a decent autometer boost gauge, you can tell its making 1psi, it drives as slow as 1psi and it makes tiny little half-hearted blow-off noises when you boost. (I use that termly lightly considering)
I haven't pulled the signal lines yet from the wastegates, suprisingly, I should give that a try. I was wondering because the front turbo seems totally fine, even if it was just working it should make more then 1psi. Although you other guys experience seems to indicate otherwise! I'll try removing the wastegate lines tonight and see what she does. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Wingless 3000GT Club
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Your problem is finding a control. Right now you have no idea what is happening under your hood.
Set up a scenario where you know what will happen, and go from there - whether that means pulling the wastegates, removing the boost controller, or whatever.
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2002 WJ -- 1994 VR-4 -- 1993 ZJ --Canon Rebel XTi ![]() |
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