updated. also updated post two with a few tidbits from this thread.
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Dyno Collection Thread
1993 Dodge Stealth ES, White, April 2002 - April 2005, SOLD 1 of 53
1993 Dodge Stealth TT, Black, Since April 2004, 1 of 5 ever mademore rarity info
2003 Subaru Forester 2.5X, Blue, Sept. 2005, Daily Driver with 165 HP of Fury! At least it's AWD. 305 awhp, 325 awtq(BPU minus full catback exhaust)Mods at that time
13.02@104.67 (9bs, dp, fipk, 15.5 psi, bov, no cats, streetmax clutch, 1.77 60', decent conditions, full weight (even spare tire/jack)
13.09@105.08 (1.80 60', same conditions as above)
Beyond BPU: (meaning upgraded turbos/fuel/etc) before engine rebuild Mods at that time
12.38@113.00(20 psi, 110 octane, massive knock above 6k rpms)
12.41@115.10(ditto)
After Rebuild (by IPS): Current ModsDyno Tune by IPS
12.8@108 (12.5 psi dropping to ~11 @redline, 2.0 60', pump gas, my tune)
other than that, i don't know. my guess is he was probably knocking. and since it was just a "quick stab" as he said, it's not going to destroy the engine that quickly. but i'm just guessing, maybe you could pm him and see if he'd post the info? i'd be interested too
This was a long time ago fellas! Umm, yeah, I didnt do this for anything other than to test spool up. I dont think it knocked, but I backed out really early in the RPM range. The car would rarely knock this early on, even if I was pushing boost... mostly it would happen around 5500rpm IIRC. But I definitely wouldnt have made full passes at this boost level. From what I recall it was running really rich on TPS/MAP enrichment too, so Im sure I was dumping in tons of fuel... my Maft Pro tune wasnt the best. It was really just a lets do this and hope for the best type of thing, dont try it at home. lol.
hey, thanks man. i wasn't trying to be an ass in the other thread, just didn't want to clutter it up, since the topic really deals with this thread. anyway...
i think what mellon was trying to say, is that there's no set way to make it 100% accurate for every vehicle, since a lot of people have aftermarket wheels and tires, and even changing gearing around now. essentially, the math would have to be done individually for every person that submits a chart in mph. and my main concern with the tire circumference, is where do you take the measurement. just use the rim diameter and the tire width/aspect ratio and get it from there and trust it's 100% accurate, or require the person to actually measure the tire. and then, where do you measure it? to the side, or to the bottom since there is some deflection there and that's the point where it actually contacts the road. and if you don't have each individual person measuring it, how much do you take off for that deflection? it would depend on the tire sizes and how much it's inflated. and is it the same static as when it's moving? surely centrifugal force at 100+ mph would have some effect. anyway, you see what i'm getting at.
at any rate, did you put the rpms on that chart? i ask because i've seen it before but didn't notice the rpms, if they were on there. pretty nifty. but because of how the excel spreadsheet is setup, i would need the power numbers at 500 rpm increments, starting at 3000 rpm. or wherever the dyno pull starts. so the power at 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, etc.
edit: i just measured my own tires on my car, and for a left/right i get a diameter of 25 inches. for up/down i get 24.25 inches. using the numbers on Stealth 316 - Gear Ratios that gives a difference of 200 rpm at 7000 rpm, depending on which number i used. just for reference.
edit2: and just doing the math on my 245/45/17 tires, they should be 25.68 inches in diameter. so maybe a 300 rpm difference between 25.68 and 24.25.
anyone else got something on this? i was actually hoping to have a little bit of a discussion. of course, anyone can go ahead and post any dyno chart they want to this thread, for archive-esk sake or whatever. i would like to incorporate mph-derived dynos somehow, but some kind of understanding/agreement/consensus should happen first.
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