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#1 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Need some help! Just pulled the oil pan off, as I have a SCE racing oil pan to install. While its off, I'd like to check the rod and main bearings for wear and plastigauge them for clearnaces. But, I can't find the original paperwork for my Crower connecting rods, and need to know the torque specs for the rod bolts. Thanks!
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'92 Stealth RT/TT, Sandstorm, 125K miles
Currently installed: E-MBC, SS brake lines, Motul 600 BF, FN01R-C rims, ATR DP, test pipe, and exhaust, EK2Mfg EGR blockoff plates, MAFT-Pro, S-ITC, Dejon Tool intake runners, JIC FTL-A2 struts, PST CFDS, Tial BOV, MSD 8.5mm plug wires, Accelerated Motorsports catch can, Ebay FMIC, Evo 560's, IPO dual feed fuel lines, Greddy P/W/H EGT gauge, IPO battery relocation, Optima red top, PWR radiator, DSM shifter bushings, custom WW fluid tank, Saner F/R swaybars, PLX WB O2 setup, SCE StopTech ST-40 332x33 front brake upgrade & 300mm rear rotors, SCE tender springs, SCE caster/camber plates, Titan Bending f header, 15G turbos,forged crank, Crower rods, Weisco pistons, DR Stage 2 heads, TRS seats, 5 pnt harnesses. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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i torqued the crower rods in my motor to the factory specs.
*i do plain to retorque/check them with-in the next week or so though (my motor has about 1500 miles on it). i'm not sure if the torque specs are different, although what i have them torqued to now seems to be just fine. if there is a difference between the factory torque specs and crower specs i would like to know as well.
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entropy
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#3 (permalink) |
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Saitei GTO
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Torque them @ 45 ft-lbs (max) if you had H11 bolts (It usually comes with the rod)
Torque them @ 65 ft-lbs (max) if you had AMS5844 bolts (upgrade version) Make sure you torque both sides to 10 ft-lbs first before final torque. The best way is to use stretch method. (.005"~.007") But its not an easy task to perform underneath the car ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Saitei GTO
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Quote:
There is a chance for the H11 bolt to fail with factory torque when engine is running at severe duty. (because it is not properly stretched) I'd recommend to re-torque to Crower spec., since factory torque spec is @ 38 ft-lbs, lower than the Crower 45 ft-lbs. Remember when installing the rod bolts at first time, it is recommended to tighten & loosen at least three time prior to final assembly. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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You're the man, SaiteiMan. Since the rods have been in and running for about a year, I don't think I need to tighten and loosen them three times. I'll just do the torque to 10 ft lbs, then to 45, with the plastiguage in. Then put assembly lube on the bearings for the final reassembly. Assuming I don't need to replace the bearings or worse.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Saitei GTO
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Don't forget to ensure the back of the bearing is cleaned and free of oil during re-assembly as well as the cap. Check if there's enough high temp moly grease on the bolt (45 ft-lbs is spec'd by using moly grease due to lower friction), reapply if necessary. Also a squirt of oil on top of the bearing shall be enough for re-assembly as you don't want to over apply. Good luck
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#7 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Well, I checked cylinder 1's rod bearing. After scratching my head to figure how to get the rod cap off, figured that out and looked at the bearing. Bearing looked brand fucking new still. Plastiguaged it and it came up at 0.003" I'm using OEM Mitsu bearings, but no fancy color matching stuff. Put that rod back together and decided not to press my luck and risk messing something up. Installed the new SCE oilpan and put everything else back together. Filled the TC and dumped in 5.5 qts of oil into the engine. Only thing left to do is put the entire exhaust system back in, tweak some camber settings, and replace all the front end underside plastic pieces.
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