Bad Ignition Switch?

[jwetzler]

***EDIT It's Fixed Now. Click the below link to go to the post I made on this thread with the final fix.***
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread....25#post4464425

Here is the deal. I think my ignition system is bad. Never really messed with ignition on cars before though.

When I slightly move the key back or forward in the ignition, it will kill the accessories, but the engine keeps running. If I barely bump the key forward a little, it will power the accessories back on. I can duplicate it everytime.

The piece where the key goes into actually has some slack in it, causing this to be an issue. Can I just replace this peice, or will I need a new Ignition Switch? Or will I need an entire new ignition system including a new key?

Thanks for the help.

[XtremNiteCrawlr]

damn dude i thought my click click start problem was a annoying.

ive never had ur problem b4 or id try to help.

BUMP FOR A LOCAL 3SER

[jwetzler]

Anyone have any ideas? I'm about to take it to a shop next Monday.

[wraith]

Originally Posted by jwetzler

Anyone have any ideas? I'm about to take it to a shop next Monday.

You jiggle the key and the accesories turn off? The whole ignition assembly is like $70....all the contacts are all the way on the left side of the key cylinder. There is a spring with copper traces on that side and they can wear down. You can just take that column apart, take the ignition key cylinder out by pushing the small spring loaded pin on the side and with the key in accessory, pull it straight out. Then you replace the assembly with a new one that you need to use a little finesse with a drill bit to remove since it has tamper proof bolts that are broken off when its assembled. Then you put your old key cylinder back into it. You will know what to do as you take it apart. Your first step is to remove the plastic collar by taking the screws out from the bottom, and then go form there. With a new assembly in your hand, it will become much clearer what to do.

Sam

[jwetzler]

Originally Posted by wraith

You jiggle the key and the accesories turn off? The whole ignition assembly is like $70....all the contacts are all the way on the left side of the key cylinder. There is a spring with copper traces on that side and they can wear down. You can just take that column apart, take the ignition key cylinder out by pushing the small spring loaded pin on the side and with the key in accessory, pull it straight out. Then you replace the assembly with a new one that you need to use a little finesse with a drill bit to remove since it has tamper proof bolts that are broken off when its assembled. Then you put your old key cylinder back into it. You will know what to do as you take it apart.Sam

Sam thanks for the reply. So let me make sure I understand what you are saying.
The spring that has worn down is actually what's causing my problem, not the key cylinder? The new ignition assembly is only 70.00 and will replace the spring as well?

So when I replace the ignition system, I will keep my old key cylinder, which will allow me to be able to keep the same ignition key?

Also, just for my info, if a key cylinder is replaced, this generally means there will need to be a new key right?

[wraith]

Originally Posted by jwetzler

Sam thanks for the reply. So let me make sure I understand what you are saying.
The spring that has worn down is actually what's causing my problem, not the key cylinder? The new ignition assembly is only 70.00 and will replace the spring as well?

So when I replace the ignition system, I will keep my old key cylinder, which will allow me to be able to keep the same ignition key?

Also, just for my info, if a key cylinder is replaced, this generally means there will need to be a new key right?

Right. The piece that you turn with the key inside the column actually engages a cam about three inches inside the cylinder. The only thing the key cylinder does is create a switch that only turns when the key is inserted. If you take the plastic collar off and look at the left of the cylinder that you put the key into, you will see a black circle with soldered wires attached to it. There is a little phillips head screw that holds the black cap onto the cylinder......if that screw backed out that could be your problem. If its tight on that side, then you probably have to replace the whole assembly.

The key cylinder itself disengages from this assembly so you can re-use it with a new assembly and keep your key the same......the tumblers in the key cylinder are hardened steel and the key is a softer metal so chances are that if you had issues with the key & cylinder part, its a worn key.

You can even unscrew the phillips head and take that spring loaded cap off and look at the copper traces, but chances are you will not know how it all goes back together, so be prepared if you do this that your car might be out of commission till you get a new one.

You should drill the two security bolts out from the bottom so the drill bit unscrews them with the drill in the forward direction once it bites into the bottom of the bolts.

[jwetzler]

Originally Posted by wraith

Right. The piece that you turn with the key inside the column actually engages a cam about three inches inside the cylinder. The only thing the key cylinder does is create a switch that only turns when the key is inserted. If you take the plastic collar off and look at the left of the cylinder that you put the key into, you will see a black circle with soldered wires attached to it. There is a little phillips head screw that holds the black cap onto the cylinder......if that screw backed out that could be your problem. If its tight on that side, then you probably have to replace the whole assembly.

The key cylinder itself disengages from this assembly so you can re-use it with a new assembly and keep your key the same......the tumblers in the key cylinder are hardened steel and the key is a softer metal so chances are that if you had issues with the key & cylinder part, its a worn key.

You can even unscrew the phillips head and take that spring loaded cap off and look at the copper traces, but chances are you will not know how it all goes back together, so be prepared if you do this that your car might be out of commission till you get a new one.

You should drill the two security bolts out from the bottom so the drill bit unscrews them with the drill in the forward direction once it bites into the bottom of the bolts.

I'm about to order one from Mitsu, which do I need, the whole assembly or just the switch?

Whole Assembly: 137.64
Switch:59.67

I just want to make for sure I get which ever one is going to have the spring that needs to be replaced. If I have to buy the more expensive one that is fine.

[XtremNiteCrawlr]

Originally Posted by jwetzler

I'm about to order one from Mitsu, which do I need, the whole assembly or just the switch?

Whole Assembly: 137.64
Switch:59.67

I just want to make for sure I get which ever one is going to have the spring that needs to be replaced. If I have to buy the more expensive one that is fine.

lol jon im right behind u lol mines gettin tricky to start. i need to find my low fuel pressure problem tooooo. and i need a clutch and lol it a vr-4 what do u expect lol

[3000GT@UAE]

how did you solve that problem? (The click click noise when you start)

[wraith]

You probably want the more expensive part and not the actual switch. I dont know what the part numner is but in the diagrams its assembly 82005A
If you buy it from Mentor mail order its $80 with shipping