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#1 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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Alright guys, ive been helping a buddy of mine after his water pump snapped and he jumped timing... I did the water pump job for free because my dream car is a vr4 lol... after getting heads re-worked (stage3 3sx heads) new valves, seals, etc. installed on the engine, got everything working and it ran perfect, flawless, even at low boost, i was very impressed. We went and got gas, came back, after everything went through the heat cycle, we let it cool, after pulling an all nighter, nearly 30 hours straight getting everything reassembled, finding parts, little things... we re-torqued everything and we decided to take the car home. got on it only once or twice to hear the blow off valve, and everybody was happy. Coming up to an intersection with a green light, no throttle or anything, the car backfired and shut off, and wouldnt start, nor has it started since. Ive got everything on Florida3s, videos, pictures and everybody's suggestions, but i thought i'd bring the problem to a much wider audience for a more expert opinion...
Please 3si, fix my ride! Update with pics and vids - Florida's Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Community! and heres the video of the car from yesterday, i know i know, lay off the starter ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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so far i have:
-swapped coil pack with known good coil pack -Swapped PTU (known good) -Swapped plug wires (MSD 8.5) -swapped ECU, fixed fuel pump problem -changed out crank sensor pump is walbro 255lph injectors are 550cc PTE? has S-AFC but im unsure of settings |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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You must have Spark,Fuel,Compression(timing).Find out which one is missing and lets go from there.
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intake,modified mass sensor,13G with TD04l housing, 450 injectors,iridium plugs,8,5 mill Magnacor wires,SAFC,hot wire 255lph Walbro fuel pump,stage III 6 pack clutch,gutted cats ,down pipe-full 3"exhaust. Main cat illuminated ,pillar gauges and more.....
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#5 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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i checked all 4 cam gears about a week ago and the cams were dead on, i think the crank might be off, ill go outside and check it now... i wish you guys lived close to me, i'd pay someone to get it running again
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#6 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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okay, i did a compression check just to be sure, and its 150-150-150 on the back, and 150-150-150(155) on the front, front #1 cylinder kept giving me different results everytime i tested, but the 2 highest numbers are there...
im checking timing when i have more light, but it looks like the crank may be off a little.. all 4 cams are still good though, when i was looking at it eariler (because i didnt have a 1/2" ratchet or any sockets over 19mm ) the cams were 4 or so teeth off, but the crank was way way way over... like way past 20 towards the front of the car, if i would have turned the crank, i think it would have been around 30 or so, but we'll see.. good news is, still have good compression... should the numbers be higher, since its a fresh build? block/pistons are fine, and have around 6k miles, the heads and up, gaskets etc. are brand new, 3sx heads and an ebay gasket set put us back around 400 parts and labor (heads) |
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#7 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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okay guys, timing is good, compression is good, spark is good, but apparently when i took the car to the mechanic, he said it sounds to him like lack of fuel pressure... but its cranking, but not starting... he said to get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up, see what the pressure's at... this is what i bought, but i think im missing some pieces...
next question is, the mechanic said to unhook the FPR vacuum line, and the car should get more pressure.. if the car starts, then problem solved, right? one thing i dont know is, i have one in, one out, and where does the other one go? the smaller nipple? and does the nut on top adjust the pressure, or is this a non-adjustable? heres the fuel pressure gauge i bought |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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The important thing here is did you adjust the timing belt tensioner pulley correctly? If not I wouldn't even bother trying to start the engine till you get it adjusted properly as it's just going to jump and then you'll be farked for sure.
On the fpr one niple is inlet other outlet, small one vacuum source and adjustable from top setscrew/nut. |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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New User - Please be kind
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Quote:
okay, so im bypassing the stock FPR alltogether? or am i using the line from the stock FPR into this new FPR? how would i delete the stock FPR? get a fitting? or something specialty? thanks everybody for the help so far |
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