3SX TD05 Kit Install/Progress

[cbehnken]

if you pull the oil returns and crank the motor with the ECI fuse pulled it will prime the engine.

Engine off = no exhaust to turn the turbo, but engine cranking = oil pressure. Crank it until oil comes of the returns and you are golden.

[TooFast4Radar]

Originally Posted by cbehnken

if you pull the oil returns and crank the motor with the ECI fuse pulled it will prime the engine.

Engine off = no exhaust to turn the turbo, but engine cranking = oil pressure. Crank it until oil comes of the returns and you are golden.

That's exactly what I do, too. It's the easiest way to prime the oil system and it takes literally seconds to do.

[streamlnauto]

Originally Posted by thaichops

I'm in the process of doing the same install. But I have run into a small road block with the coolant lines. Would you mind giving me a little insite as to what you you used and where you got the materials for you coolant lines?

I used -6 nylon braided line, 4 90 degree fittings, and 4 -6 to M14 adapters. I got it all locally but Summitracing.com is a great place to get what you need, I recommend the summit brand fittings because they are about 1/2 the price of earls or russel fittings, I probably spent $180 making the damn lines lol, if I were more patient I could have done it all for around $100 with the summit fittings.

Its really not that hard to do, I recomment the nylon braided stuff over the stainless braided because its easier to work with, just don't have it touching the hot side of the turbo, it will slip onto the stock coolant nipples, use some little stainless worm gear clamps and you are good.

The rear turbo on the side nearest the engine is the hardest one because there are clearance issues, I am not happy with the way the line rests so I am going to use a custom banjo bolt like these.

On the same site has the m14 adapters I used as well.

14mm Alum. Banjo To 1/4 Fitting Kit ( coolant , oil , fuel ) - $19.97 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake

[streamlnauto]

Originally Posted by gltasn

make sure you prime your turbos before you start them. i noticed your oil line installed allready. i would remove and add oil. it will take an hour but it will start to go into turbo and you can add more. do this 3 times before starting. i even took a tube(heater hose) and put one end around oil inlet and blew into hose to force oil into turbo. if you dont you could seize turbo upon start. j sin

I did pre oil my turbos. By the time the engine is primed there will be plenty of lubrication throughout the system.

I always pull my crank and cam angle sensor harness so there is no spark / fuel during the priming stage, pretty much the same thing.

[streamlnauto]

Originally Posted by Import Power

Don't run any

If you can, why not? It will only prolong the life of the turbo, as well as help to keep the cold side temps down.

[Import Power]

Originally Posted by streamlnauto

If you can, why not? It will only prolong the life of the turbo, as well as help to keep the cold side temps down.

you can, won't hurt anything
But many people, including myself, have run them for long periods of time with no coolant lines with no ill effects

[Gray Haze]

use a 9/16ths banjo hose end, and then the correct m14 banjo bolt. Seals up fine.

[VR4Drive92]

I always poor oil into the turbo before the first start.

Even when you are turning the motor over, the shaft still spins. Granted, it does not spin at a high rate of speed compared to the normal operational condition but it does spin.

But if pressed for time, then the other method will do just fine.

[streamlnauto]

Originally Posted by Import Power

you can, won't hurt anything
But many people, including myself, have run them for long periods of time with no coolant lines with no ill effects

Well, a long period of time is not a matter of a couple years imo, I would say long term would be 30-50k miles or more, I would just say they built them with coolant passages for a reason, it would be interesting to do a dyno pull on the same car with and without coolant lines, I would bet the intake charge would be a bit cooler with than without.

[Import Power]

Originally Posted by streamlnauto

Well, a long period of time is not a matter of a couple years imo, I would say long term would be 30-50k miles or more, I would just say they built them with coolant passages for a reason, it would be interesting to do a dyno pull on the same car with and without coolant lines, I would bet the intake charge would be a bit cooler with than without.

air never passes thru the chra
your chra would have to be substantially hotter to dissapate enough heat into the comp housing to effect dyno numbers. And I don't see that happening.