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3KGT Holy Grail

50K views 166 replies 30 participants last post by  MichaelMR2 
#1 · (Edited)
Found a 3.8l 6G75 Block (4.0l + potential) specifically to fit the 3000GT / Stealth chassis





Found in these.. V77W Pajero



and you'll need one these.. JDM 6G74 DOHC (use everything off this but the block)



P.S- For the ppl who dont know the 6g74/75 block have the same deck height so you'll need most of the gear of this engine to make up added deck height, the 72 dohc gear doesn't fit - check Wrench Monkeys page to get a better understanding of what i mean --- http://wrenchmonkey.com/Webpages/6G74swap.html

and to top it off one of these..

NBF 6g74 4.1L short block - Welcome to the New Racing Generation Forums .

and hey Presto !!!!!!!!
 
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#4 ·
The pajero they are found in are sold new zealand "New" in NZ from 05 to 06 (that's for nz anyways not sure what specific model or if they came out anywhere else in the world), and yes appears to have gone back to the original 3kgt frontal timing setup.

The short block can be bought separately from MMC

if you look at the diagrams here it shows that the oil pump and water pump setup is same shapes as early 6G7's
???????: ????????? ??? Mitsubishi Pajero V77W (LYXVQ)

block appears to have the 4 bolt mains also.
 
#3 ·
Interesting. Who really here though wants to spend $12,000 on a motor and who needs 2000 hp lol. At that point there is no daily driveability haha
 
#5 · (Edited)
or just stick with 3.8l, imagine the spool time on the turbo/s, 2000hp is the hp rating on that stoker kit, doesn't mean you have to run 2000hp, cheaper option is to bore the 6g75 block out to a 97mm bore, which will give you 3990cc (4.0l) without changing the crank and rod size.
 
#8 ·
The block is still a 6G74 though? It's a stroker isnt it?
The 6G75 never came out in a config to fit these cars.....

To me that's a stroker 6g74. Stamped a 74 and that's what it'll always be
 
#9 · (Edited)
Its definitely a 75 bore and stroke, it appears this specific block has routed back to the older 6g74 (jdm 6g74 dohc to be exact) frontal design, so from what i can see it has all the bolting points to fit that specific 6g74 frontal gear, which will bolt into passenger side engine mounted Mitsubishi cars (or drivers side mounted for left hand drive)

when i first found that picture of that block pictured i was in disbelief too, i thought i was looking at a 74 block, but after abit of research its seams to be correct
 
#11 ·
So are you going to do it?

do you have more pictures of the girdle?

do you still have to grind the girdle? does it have the wedge taken out of the sump?

how much is one of these engines going to set you back, the last time I checked a 6g74 DOHC block was going for $4K in AU or NZ no matter which way you cooked it.

Edit: I cannot see a dipstick hole on the correct side for a 3k either...
 
#15 ·
hey dude, not knocking it, just trying to get a concise list of what would be needed.

a 3.8L block out of the gate would be great as long as you don't have to do shit like we do with the 75 where you make custom engine mounts n shit :p

we have crap loads of these pieces of shit pajero's so I could POSSIBLY get a spun bearing block.
 
#16 ·
The Point im putting across with this block is that it will accept all the JDM Debonair 6G74 Dohc Frontal gear, Which will bolt directly in 3s platform cars,

The normal 6g75 block where all familiar with the revised tensioner/oil pump and water pump setup is able to accept 72 dohc heads/72 alt & power steering set up and will fit in 3s platform but with the revised tensioner/oil pump and water pump setup there are no timing covers to fit the]is setup and the timing belt is exposed to the elements

so with this specific block and use of parts off the S26A JDM Debonair 6G74 DOHC you would have a 6g75 dohc that bolt's into the 3/s platform with full timing cover's - and with the 75 block 4000cc+ is easy to achieve.




"left side" mounted 6g7 style block on left ----- "right side" mounted 6g7 style on right (both are 75 blocks just trying to state how the block design was revised"

take note of the revision on the bolting points


my guess is when Mitsubishi were designing the 75 block they must have though well we have made 72's & 74's to fit both left & right side mounted engine bays, so we should make the 75 in both "early 6g" style and the later revised style ...

i know this is a lot to take in but im sure some people do understand what im saying.
 
#18 ·
The picture of the two 75 blocks (above) shows how the 75 block ive found reverts back to the early "right engine mounted" which will accept the frontal gear ive specified..

which will will give you some what of a factory looking engine with a covered in timing belt setup

those are the best pictures of the block i can find, ive done my best to explain
 
#19 · (Edited)
kk no worries, I might keep my eye out for some local 4x4 wreckers and see if I can find this engine! thanks for the heads up.

my solution so far is to just bore out a 6g74 block to be 95mm :)

Edit: will look up that chassis code manual and see what I can dig up :) (prob the best way to start on this)
 
#20 ·
This engine is probably more readily available in AU than NZ, you can just buy a short block from MMC which is only what is really needed -A oem new short block is probably around same price as a used complete engine

yes boring the 74 out is doable and using 75 crank in the 74 block will give you 3.8l - BUT.. the 75 block has revised/enlarged coolant passages to make up for the bigger bore, so boring the 75 out even more is doable and the 75 crankcase has more volume to allow more clearance

you could get a 4.0l capacity out of the 74 but the block would be stretched to its limits - the 75 block is the easiest way to get a 4.0l capacity with only needing 2mm over sized pistons (custom obviously)
 
#21 · (Edited)
yeah definitly man, unfortunatly this shit is stupid expensive in Australia.

I bought a spun bearing block from the USA (6g74) for $200 USD, and shipped it here for $1.4k ish...

was quoted literally 4.5K for the same engine in Australia, and I had to freight it from QLD to NSW (around 900km)

I will def chase this one over the next 6 mo as it's whe I'll be making the big decisions as to what block I use (the current one or this one)

Just chasing Vin's to see what I can find about them...

JMFLYV97W7J000435 (06)
JMFLYV77W5J003154 (05)
JMFLYV77W4J001837 (04)
JMFLYV77W5J000117 (04)

Looks like its a MY05 NP Pajero is the right chassis code, for the hell of it the 06 is a V97W, not sure what the difference is.

Engine codes:

2005 6G75886RX9198
2006 6G75SR7094
2004 6G75RK1591

This manual seems to cover the engine (unfortunatly with all the other engines too)

http://files.mek1.ru/file/11B.pdf
 
#22 ·
yeah definitly man, unfortunatly this shit is stupid expensive in Australia.

I bought a spun bearing block from the USA (6g74) for $200 USD, and shipped it here for $1.4k ish...

was quoted literally 4.5K for the same engine in Australia, and I had to freight it from QLD to NSW (around 900km)

I will def chase this one over the next 6 mo as it's whe I'll be making the big decisions as to what block I use (the current one or this one)
haha.. i know what you mean dude, i guess originality does come at a price, but just imagine the sound of a fully built 4.0l dohc 6g7* engine...
 
#24 · (Edited)
Ta, well I'll do a bit of a ring around tomorrow and see what I can find, other than that it's pretty much a waiting game for 6 months (for me)

still keen to dig up the actual 2004/5 NP Service Manual to get detailed diagrams and drawings of exactly where the pajero mounts bolt up....none of that would be an issue if I could get a block itself...nfi on the part number yet.

check this link (you posted it earlier)

???????: ????????? ??? Mitsubishi Pajero V77W (LYXVQ)

scroll down to the mounts...not sure of it's the same as ours :|

Damn just found a price for the block itself (just actual block + girdle)...3K USD :|
 
#25 ·
Ta, well I'll do a bit of a ring around tomorrow and see what I can find, other than that it's pretty much a waiting game for 6 months (for me)

still keen to dig up the actual 2004/5 NP Service Manual to get detailed diagrams and drawings of exactly where the pajero mounts bolt up....none of that would be an issue if I could get a block itself...nfi on the part number yet.

check this link!

???????: ????????? ??? Mitsubishi Pajero V77W (LYXVQ)

yea dude found that page too

a good idea is to find one in a car yard and have a look from underneath.

page 103 (V67W, V77W) of the manual you specified is definitely the block
 
#29 ·
was more suggesting I'm not sure the holes are the same pattern, I assume so...but want to be suuuure!

from memory the 6g72 Gen II sump fits after you grind down the girdle, the heads thing is a different ball game for mine, I have Eclipse heads waiting (SOHC)

yet to find a good solution to the alternator mount :( probably have to make a John Monnin style mount bracket.
 
#30 ·
what im putting across is and this is the last time im writing this YOU have to buy the JDM 6G74 DOHC from the S26A Debonair and switch the block of that engine with 75 block i have specified, when doing this it requires NO custom mounting of accessories and covers the timing belt in and looks like a factory engine
 
#32 ·
in other news, I found one for $2200..complete engine ready to go, will see how I stand after Oohnoo's bill comes in :)

Edit: oh and while I'm at it, you americans had this engine too...I found the manual for it. look for V77W chassis code in the VIN of some cars for sale over there...probably 02-06 depending on when they wanted to sell it.
 
#33 ·
The main reason you guys are having so many problems with the motor mounts on the 6G75 is due to the place where it mounts into the Eclipse.

The rear mount on the Eclipse actually bolts to the transmission instead of the block. This gives us 2 transmission mounts and 2 engine mounts.

Now, about boring out the 6G75 block from the Eclipse. You need to be extremely careful about making a 4.0L out of it. The cylinder walls get awful thin when you go that far and our biggest bore so far is a 3.9L in the Eclipse community. We have 1 twin turbo Eclipse project going on right now, but the biggest problem with our heads right now is valve float. A spring and retainer upgrade is a necessity for anything over 6-8 psi. We've also been having heat issues with the number 3 cylinder for the guys doing the RIPP SDS kit and not running water/meth injection.

If there is any info I can help out with on the 6G75 MIVEC engine from the 4G Eclipse, I'll be glad to help.

For you guys already running the 6G75, we are currently also working on prototype cams with RPW in Australia. Just need more testers. I think RPW is offering for the testers to send them out for 600 AUD.
 
#36 ·
Yea, we're going for a more performance oriented cam profile. Higher lift on the low speed lobe, and more duration on the mivec lobe.

The guys running Turbo and supercharged kits are having huge issues with valve float even at low rpm but anything over 8 pounds of boost. The valvetrain just wasn't factory built to handle boost very well. Good idea though with the crank. The biggest bore we are seeing is a 2mm over bore which gives us about 3.9L.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Might as well post this here too..

here is the parts list for the V77W (3.8L Montero/Pajero/Shogun)


Oil Pump MD363751 (needs to match)
Oil mount flange MD352626 (not so important)
Lower engine cover MD366568 (just handy to see what it match's)
Crank Balancer MD377380 (so I can order it for myself)
Hydraulic tensioner MD362861 (curious to see if it's a match)
Timing Belt MD358549 (will not match due to SOHC heads and different routing)
Water Pump MD979171 (Will need to match?)
Lower intake MF241272 (will 99% match anyway)

6g74 parts:

Oil Pump MD363751
Oil Mount Flange MD366399
Lower Engine Cover (no similar part)
Crank Balancer MD378453/MD368825/MD377380) WTF
Hydraulic Tensioner MD362861
Timing Belt MD364114
Water Pump (MD977503/MD979171)
Lower Intake (Does not exist)


anyone got anything else that needs to match to make sure it's got the outsides of the 6g74 block?

Soo the Oil Pump + water pump are the same, looks like we MIGHT be on a winner so far.
 
#38 · (Edited)
The 6G74 block with a 6G75 crank has been done by quite a few people so far (probably like 5-6 people I would guess). When you work from the Debonaire base motor the setup bolts right in other than the exhaust work, turbo coolant & oil return lines, some shaving of the rear mount points on the block, and cutting a t-case pocket into the 6G74 oil pan (or beating the snot out of the 6G72 TT pan so it fits). 6G74 rods and custom pistons with 29.75mm/1.171" pin downset (versus 31.75mm/1.250" on the 6G72/6G74) finish it out.

Need to be careful going nuts with the bore size. You're just going to loose real estate between the bore and the coolant jackets; lowering the durability of the head gasket seal. Max bore with the 6G74 block is 94.0mm according to Mitsu which probably not over the top but I'd be worried about any more at 25+ psi. If it were a pump gas only motor that was kept under 20 psi I might think about 95-95.5 mm. There's also not much more room for stroke than the 90.0mm with the 6G75 crank. My piston skirts already hang out of the bore at the bottom of the stroke and I had to grind pockets on one side of the girdle to clear the rod hardware. With 94.0/90.0 it puts you at a 3.75L.
 
#40 ·
I just thought about this. What clutch and flywheel do you use for the 3.8l Montero block swap? Do the stock VR4 components transfer over? You know with being a bigger block and everything , you would think the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch wouldn't magically fit.
 
#41 ·
the external dimensions of the block are identical, so yes everything transfers over, it's exactly the same conversion as the 6g74.

only thing to worry about is how little material you have between the cylinders :|

think I know a wrecker with this block, so in a few weeks I'm going to get him to freight it to me, which will mean I'll then sell all the current stuff I have (eclipse 3.8L crank, 6g74 block, 6g74 rods)
 
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