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#101 (permalink) | |
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Member: Burned valve club
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Quote:
Back in 2005 @180K miles, my oil pressure would hit bypass pressure at around 4500 RPM with fully warmed engine and 20W50 oil. ![]()
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1991 Stealth RT/TT - Firestorm Red - 193K Miles / Original Owner
Maint: Castrol 10W40 / Mitsu Filter / Rislone Replaced: 2X clutch / 3X brakes / 2X front rotors / 2X ABS HU / 1X NGK Plugs / 1X Ball joints / 2X Antenna mast / 1X Active exhaust cable / 1X Windshield / 1X Fuel FIlter / 1X Struts / 1X rear rotors / 1X Front Head / VSS / 1X rear wheel bearings / 1X Transfer case (warranty) / 1x Tie rod end (drivers side) Overhauled: Starter, IAC, BISS, CV Boots Upgrade: SilverStar Headlights / ebay "Xenon" Fog Bulbs (no more yellow!) A/F Gauge / MAP - Electronic Boost Logging / MMCd Data Logger Pending Projects: Steering Rack |
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#103 (permalink) |
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Member: Burned valve club
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215 miles on the bearings and all seems well (although oil pressure is obviously not correct.)
Getting my normal 23 MPG driving back and forth to work. Planning to flush oil tonight and then send sample for analysis after 500 miles. Any bets for/against me getting to 500 miles? (crank journal was definately worn but not rough. I still think .004" clearance with 25mm oversize bearing may provide the cushion I need for the bearing to survive for a while.) Clint |
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#104 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Let me know if you are around sometime this week on thursday which is tommorow, wow this week flew by. Glad to hear you are 215 and its fine. To me it sounds fairly normal to have that kind of wear and clearence, I mean I saw a stealth with 290K miles on it, it wasnt a TT just dohc an old guy has it and he was pretty worried about the oil pressure being VERY LOW, I still see him driving around and no work done on the car..... He just uses very thick oil and adds some additives. I think this car will take you for atleast another 15K miles from seeing how much you know about it. I would just drive it and in the meantime get a nice engine ready to drop in it, I am not sure what is your situation on a DD. Also sort of interested in the oil samples post those up.
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#105 (permalink) | ||
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Former ROTY :-}
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Clint, I'm assuming you're judging your oil pressure by an after market gauge?
How low is low? Does the low oil light flicker? If you're judging by the stock gauge and want to know for SURE what your pressure is, I'd be happy to send you the "temporary" external gauge I built up. (remove stock sender, screw in my gauge [with a few feet of rubber hose on it] and measure away!) I actually have two gauges, one for startup measurements and another for warm idle that swap in and out... Bob. EDIT...nevermind, I'm an idiot. I just scrolled up to see that your using MMC'd to do your measurements....
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#106 (permalink) | |
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Member: Burned valve club
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#107 (permalink) |
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Member: Burned valve club
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Unfortunately, there may have been signs at 180K (53K miles ago) that there was a problem looming with oil pump (see increased levels of iron and bearing material) Unfortunately, I did not sample at 200K. If I had sampled at 200K and saw even higher iron, it would have pointed me to the oil pump well in advance of bearing failure. (See report below)
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#108 (permalink) |
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Member: Burned valve club
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Medium size favor. Part number and cost of two front -> rear power steering lines.
Can someone with CAPS loaded get me a part number for the two power steerring lines that go from the front of the car all the way to the rear along the passenger side of the car. Trying to figure out how much they cost but I could not find the part or cost when looking at the online Mitsu catalog. I either need to order them, or take mine off and have the hoses replaced. Clint |
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#109 (permalink) |
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Former ROTY :-}
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Clint,
Here's what I found.. MB631712 Hose Steering Oil RESEVIOR The other two lines are labeled as RETURN and SUCTION, but unfortunately CAPS shows "**NO DATA**" for both of these parts... Sorry, I tried. Bob. |
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#110 (permalink) | |
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Verified Seller
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Quote:
Can you elaborate on the bypass valve, and how that works...?
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1992 Stealth RT/TT:
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