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#1 (permalink) |
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Forest Gump
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doesn't look like this crack will make much difference, but does anyone with experience know?
![]() Please don't try to talk me into getting 16Gs, I am specifically looking to replicate Trevor's 14B torque curve or get as close as I can... Also, if you know where to get decent 14bs let me know. I want to run the standard 6cm housings.
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![]() Power: DSM 13G/DR650 Combo, EVO 560cc injectors, SAFC I, K&N, Ebay Downpipe, ATR Dual Catback, no cats, DN Y-Pipe, HKS SSQV, HKS EVC 5 at 14.5PSI, Walbro 255 with AN Bulkhead 8.07 @ 85.55 1/8th mile 1.84 60FT Suspension: KYB GR-2 - Tein S-Techs, Crossdrilled/slotted rotors, AWS Delete Drivetrain: RPS Street Max, M.W. 300m O/S, Seattle F&R Poly Mounts, EK2 ExoCage Etc: Roller Bearing Short Shifter Smokinvr-4 Corner box, 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch sub, Eclipse Headunit Leatherseats.com Charcoal/Dove Grey Interior, 99 front end/lights/wing/sideskirts/doorcapsm Scanmaster 3 Maintenance New VSS, all 60K stuff, new 1st,2nd, 3rd syncro, trans seals, oil pump, rod and main bearings. Mobile 1 10w40, Redline MTL in trans, 85w90 Coastal GL5 in transfer case and rear |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Forest Gump
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Quote:
DSM Mitsubishi 14b Stock Turbo - Turbochargers.com but with the price of 16Gs it would be very hard to spend that much on a 14b. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Here for the tuna.
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See if the crack goes all the way through. If it does you could get it welded on the outside. As long as it doesn't penetrate you're fine. Looks like the turbo was hanging from that flange without support for one too many thermal cycles.
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