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#2 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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Whats up. I'm in silver spring. I'm not the most knowledgable, but my brother and dad are. I've been learning by doing my own work and countless hours of reaserching on 3SI. Would be nice to get to know another owner in the area.
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MODS - INTAKE (Installed), BigTyla Ground Wires (Installed), Ultimate Performance Strut Bars (Front: Installed / Rear: Not installed yet), 3SX Polyurethane Suspension Bushings (Purchased, but not installed yet), Polished DOHC Throttle Body (Purchased, but not installed yet) I really need to find the time to install parts I buy ![]() Edit: Finally found time to install some parts, but not all. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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US Army Medic
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If you look up on the Engine area (Non Turbo) I've been having an issue with what I believe is not so much a mechanical issue, but an electrical one. (She Clicks, but No Start). I added you to my AIM so hopefully I can get this car fixed while on leave
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#5 (permalink) |
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US Army Medic
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Nope. Nothin at all. Buddy of mine spun the starter, so I know that works. I had the car taken to Firestone in Wheaton, they were the ones that replaced the Ignition Control Module so hopefully they can give me some answers as to why it doesnt run now.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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If I remember correctly Firestone in wheaton is on the no-no list for places to go. Don't quote me, but I think i remember hearing other people have problems with that place. I'll ask my friend who works for ford in wheaton. He knows who does good service around there and who doesn't. He's actually my roomate so i'll get back to you tomorrow. Your situation sounds strange. I read the other thread. I'm gonna run it by my roommate and my family to see what they says.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Sure you don't, Scotty.
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Have you used a voltmeter to see where your current is getting to, and where it isn't? Check it at the starter, and if you are getting current there, it could well be the starter solenoid, which can occaisionally be temporarily fixed with a solid whack with a tire iron. Works on old Fords, too.
![]() If you have current coming out of your coil, that's half the battle right there. Also, check your ground wires. Your battery's ground wire can easily be negelected, and can corrode to the point where it no longer provides a good ground...also, the engine ground wire. Check the factory manual for its exact location, or do a search on here. If your car will intermittently just start right up, perhaps after a couple tries, or a couple hundred...and you've determined you have good voltage from the battery... That may be the infamous "click click start" problem...most of these cars do that eventually. There is a permanent, do it yourself fix for it, which involves basically running a new wire with a relay and fuse to bypass the bad wire. Do a search on here for the "click click start" fix, and see if that sounds like your problem. There's a good tutorial, complete with pictures, at rubberduckyracing.com, on how to do it. If you know what you're doing, it will take maybe ten minutes (and less than $5) to fix this permanently...maybe a half hour (and less than $5) if you don't. My old '93 TT had that problem, too. Voltmeter at the starter showed it was not getting current, but the battery was testing fine. It would 'click'...and nothing happened. I might do it a couple more times, then it would fire right up, and not do it again for weeks. Or, I might really, really need to be somewhere in a hurry, and it would take a hundred tries or more. I'd give up on it, come back a couple hours later, and it would start right up first time like nothing ever happened. Very frustrating. Many bad words were said by me. Performing the click-click-start fix was quite satisfying, to cure that problem once and for all. Search, and ye shall hopefully find the cure for the problem, and a quick, cheap one (of which there are too few!).
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On your knees, wretch! ********************************** Quote:
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#8 (permalink) |
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No one significant
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Hmmm, probably needs the click click start fix. I had to do it a couple of months ago on my car. I'm real busy this weekend but maybe I can find some time to help...
(I live in Wheaton too)
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Something cool goes down here. At least that's what people tell me...
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#9 (permalink) | |
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3/S Tech
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Quote:
and I am always around if there is no one closer that can help you out. Or just call me anytime and i'll help you over the phone. 301-991-6501
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QUALITY TRANS REBUILDS DONE CHEAP
Auto Velocity 301-991-6501 ![]() |
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#10 (permalink) |
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US Army Medic
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Well they figured out the problem rather quickly, despite their workload. Seems the ignition lockout from my security system tripped and popped a circuit in the fusebox, explaining the clicking. After they repaired it, they could spin the starter, then found no voltage to the computer. They rewired it, most of the work was diagnostic so it was charged at 103. They gave me a discount being military so...It all came out to 629. At least it wasn't a HUGE thing like replacing the computer altogether. Most of the guys there know me by name and car (alot of them have tried to get me to sell the car to them, but I have too much pride for my Stealth)
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