Same picture, but I lightened the first one up a little bit because it looked a little better on my computer. But, we all know everyones screen is different.
No editing besides lightening the first one up a bit.
This was on S mode. I forget the shutter speed it was on.
Criticism appreciated.
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Last edited by byebye_sti : 10-14-2009 at 12:34 AM.
Don't even need a light meter, just shoot in RAW and up the exposure in post-processing. Takes 2 seconds. Though I agree that it's good to be in the habit of getting proper exposure.
Don't even need a light meter, just shoot in RAW and up the exposure in post-processing. Takes 2 seconds. Though I agree that it's good to be in the habit of getting proper exposure.
Ummm...when you underexpose THAT much, you get shit tons of noise when you boost ISO in post. And I didn't say use A lightmeter I said use THE light meter..which on the body isn't really a light meter so much as an exposure meter.
Do it right the first time, the "just shoot in raw and fix it in post" attitude is the reason why kids buy DSLRs and think they are pros when they are using them like point and shoots
Ummm...when you underexpose THAT much, you get shit tons of noise when you boost ISO in post. And I didn't say use A lightmeter I said use THE light meter..which on the body isn't really a light meter so much as an exposure meter.
Do it right the first time, the "just shoot in raw and fix it in post" attitude is the reason why kids buy DSLRs and think they are pros when they are using them like point and shoots
Uh. Increasing exposure in RAW is the same as increasing exposure in-camera...
The only way that noise will occur is if the light was too low in the first place, in which case you'd need to adjust shutter speed or your f/stop or get more lighting, not adjust ISO.
Uh. Increasing exposure in RAW is the same as increasing exposure in-camera...
The only way that noise will occur is if the light was too low in the first place, in which case you'd need to adjust shutter speed or your f/stop or get more lighting, not adjust ISO.
Ok. FYI I meant exposure, not ISO. But whatever... Personally I think your approach is all wrong as is your advice, but that is just me. I prefer to get crap right the first time..
I'm gunna go with mike on this one. Shooting propper exposure the first time is the best way to go. And thats still way too under exposed to fix and still have looking good.
BUT.... other than the exposure the shot isnt too bad. I would try changing the vertical level the shot is taken from. Low angle and maybe a little bit tighter would look pretty good, but a high angle would be nice too. Shooting from normal high just makes things look.... normal.
BTW, whats in the upper right corner of the window? Reflection or something inside? Kinda creepy lookin.
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Well, I want to clarify. It looks like we're having some intercommunificationifying problems here. Like I said before, I was agreeing with you that it's best to get into the habit of good exposure the first time.
To be more clear, I was suggesting that he shoot in RAW all of the time, so that if you're caught off guard with poor exposure, later down the road, the picture will be correctable. I'm not sure of your photographic background, I know I've seen some of your car photography and it's pretty darn good.
I basically shoot nothing but models. And if you're using a zoom lens to shoot a model, whom is constantly changing position and you're constantly changing angle and zoom, I'm caught out of "perfect exposure" quite often, because obviously your f-stop is dynamic and is going to change with your length of lens. That's all I'm sayin' ;-)
Well, I want to clarify. It looks like we're having some intercommunificationifying problems here. Like I said before, I was agreeing with you that it's best to get into the habit of good exposure the first time.
To be more clear, I was suggesting that he shoot in RAW all of the time, so that if you're caught off guard with poor exposure, later down the road, the picture will be correctable. I'm not sure of your photographic background, I know I've seen some of your car photography and it's pretty darn good.
I basically shoot nothing but models. And if you're using a zoom lens to shoot a model, whom is constantly changing position and you're constantly changing angle and zoom, I'm caught out of "perfect exposure" quite often, because obviously your f-stop is dynamic and is going to change with your length of lens. That's all I'm sayin' ;-)
Eh....try using a fast prime to shoot models and move yourself instead of the zoom. 85mm 1.8 and 135mm 2.8 are nice portrait lenses in lue of the 50mm 1.2/1.4
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New camera - first picture.
