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#1 (permalink) |
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91 RT/TT
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I don't at all understand this system other than it injects Methanol or alcohol? And water? Where does it inject this? What if you had a FMIC where would you inject it then? I'd suspect it's only for racing or those that drive around in boost all over the place? I couldn't see this as a long lasting application for a daily driver(qty used of fluid till empty). I like the add, of 10-15% less fuel and the same or more power and colder intake temps. Can you give a good description of how the system works and components?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Hello EvanH, thanks for the questions and feedback on the ad.
here is a post I did that should help explain the benefits of water-meth injection. Water/Meth Injection Q&A (Labonte MotorSports) The fluid is injected pre-throttle plate. So after your turbos and FMIC. Think of it as On Demand 116 octane boost. Our systems have an electronic control module that reads some variation of engine load depending on the module (our VC series of injection controllers) The controller sends a signal to the pump to regulate the amount of fluid injected. Fluid goes in the intake as a mist or fog and then into the cylinders. Systems consist of Fluid Tank, 150psi pump, atomizing nozzles, high pressure hose, fittings etc etc. If you are just driving around town the system will not spray. Once you get on it, system activates and cools down IAT and increases octane. Now you can run more boost, timing, or lean out fuel and make the same hp you would need C116 race gas to do. Let me know if you have more questions or need more information. Best regards, Dan |
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#3 (permalink) |
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91 RT/TT
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I think that summed up a few of the questions. Definitely an excellent write up. I am making 320AWHP(dyno'd)@13-15 psi, MBC. What system would you recommend, what nozzle, and can a person with moderate mechanical abilities install the system? Am I required to have wide band O2 sensors? What about if I have a SAFC II? I don't plan on adding boost or timing, but more to reduce chance of knock, will it use less gas in boost, not normal driving. As I knew our cars really don't use to much gas when staying in vacuum to drive. I can set up the system for say come on at 5 psi till 15 psi(or when I back off the throttle)? How do you install the nozzle? Do you know of anywhere to get an aluminum bung to weld to the intercooler piping so you can insert the nozzle? Would it be best to be right before the throttle body, or after the intercooler outlet for more time to cool the air? If I am not planning to raise boost would you still recommend the "fail-safe" module? And lastly, would I have to get retuned on a dyno after the install? Thanks!
Last edited by EvanH : 04-17-2008 at 12:53 AM. Reason: psi and MBC |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Lots of good questions, will try to answer them all.
The ISG-10 with VC-25D controller is basically what I have on my VR-4. Good system for the price. The VCS3G is more money, but gives you a dash display of what is going on and the most accurate injection for very flat A/F curve and easy tuning. All of our VC series controllers are progressive systems and allow you to adjust the injection onset. Install is not that difficult and doable by the average person with some car wrenching skills. Wide band is not required, but a good idea if you are tuning especially with the SAFC II (what I also use) The ECU will add timing for you and you will be able to up the boost. Systems only inject when under boost when needed to increase octane. best place to put nozzle is before throttle plate. For more time and IAT cooling after the IC would work, never before IC. Install is drill 5/16" hole in intake and tap with 1/8" NPT 27 thread/in tap (available at any hardware store) Then nozzle just screws in from external to pipe. I would suggest starting with the M8 nozzle, if seems like too much, back down to the M6 that comes with the system. The IFS-10 is recommend based on how much you want to lean out the engine to make max power. 5%-not really needed as just cooling intake and some octane increase 10%-good idea for good power gains 15%-better have it, awesome power increase, but if you forget to fill the tank You could get it retuned on dyno, else install system and then lean out SAFC 1 or 2% at a time on high throttle curve across RPM range. You do a pull down the road and should fell smooth power. Watch knock count as you lean out, as soon as you see a few counts, stop testing and richen up SAFC 2% back and all done. Best regards, Dan |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Boosted!!!
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So if a car was tuned to run safely at a given boost level and made, lets say 400 to the wheels, what kind of hp could the car make on the same tune but with the meth added.
Sorry if this has already been covered
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#8 (permalink) |
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My N/A is faster.
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flammable cooling agent.
most people just use their windshield washer fluid tank, not sure if ours is big enough. also the washer fluid is already a 50/50 mix of water and alcohol junkyard build uses the tank reg. high pressure fuel pump N20 solenoids and N20 fogger injectors or plate. Good luck tunning it. I looked into it on my 93z28 TT project that ran out of money due to complete engine purchase and rebuild.
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Last edited by windsma : 04-29-2008 at 03:57 PM. |
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