What did you do to your car today?

[GTO Assassin]

Brilliant Matty-son. I've uploaded all my pics and movies to the Mac. Just waiting on everyone's vision and stuff and we can start gettin jiggy wit it.

Scotty

[FRR35H]

Originally Posted by GTO Assassin

Brilliant Matty-son. I've uploaded all my pics and movies to the Mac. Just waiting on everyone's vision and stuff and we can start gettin jiggy wit it.

Scotty

Request for that song to be on the DVD


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[rjt86]

Ground off 1.5" off the bottom of the magna strut in order to clear the GTO's drive shaft. It seems most magna stuff is either a little bigger or smaller as Matt mentioned at the NG.

Got it installed held in by 1 bolt on the bottom bracket. I can finally move the car as its blocking the driveway


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[FRR35H]

Picked up engine


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[Gray94NA]

I finally got it started after fighting with it for over a month!!!!!!!



Now if I can fix the coolant leak I might even be able to drive it...

[rjt86]

Originally Posted by FRR35H

Picked up engine


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Damn that was quick, i wish your mate was in Melbourne

[TUFFTR]

Serious! I'm using GTo Front hubs (Albeit 1st gen ones).....iteresting they dont clear the driveshaft for the GTO....I'll find some pictures to compare....Weird it fits with 1st gen hubs but not 2nd gen hubs?!

[rjt86]

Originally Posted by TUFFTR

Serious! I'm using GTo Front hubs (Albeit 1st gen ones).....iteresting they dont clear the driveshaft for the GTO....I'll find some pictures to compare....Weird it fits with 1st gen hubs but not 2nd gen hubs?!

Yea was a bit crazy, there was no way it was going on any other way. I cut 1.5" off and basically mounted the top bolt on the strut housing to the bottom bolt on the car.

It might be different with the later gen's, the following is not related to the suspension but gives you an idea: When I bought my brakes the centre hub on the car was 2-3mm larger then what was provided with the disc hat's that came with it. Had to get them to make some larger ones to fit, which the company said was the first time they came across it.

Regardless tho your strut got me out of the sheit and allowed me to move the car

Paul - if you're ever coming down to the S.E Suburbs, give me a call as i've got my front 2 wheels off the car and won't be going anywhere till i get the replacement bottom mounts from Tein. So more then happy for you to swing past to my place and try those wheels on your car.

[Willens himself]

Not necessarily something I did today (as I am not really on here that much anymore) but over the holiday whilst doing the 60k and trying to multi-task too many things at once... I figured out my cranking/no start problem. Don't even ask how this happened but the crank managed to get 4 teeth BTDC with the cams pegged on the marks. Took it apart real quick, reset the crank TDC, and no bent valves. Lesson learned, don't think just because you've aced it numerous times in the past that you can try multi-tasking house duties simultaneously. That's how this shit happens.

For what it's worth, I did find and incredible quick method to performing 60k work, I only reset the crank timing this way, but having a few apart so many times in one week I found this to be true and not sacrificing quality:

(LHD car in my example, recalling from memory)
Set engine to TDC; Get front of car on stands, remove wheel, lower timing cover.
Remove the throttle cable screws
Remove the rear IC/Turbo pipe
Remove vacuum/balance tube from plenum (makes way for timing cover)
Remove screws anchoring Cruise Control box, sway to the side by the strut mount.
Remove Upper Timing Covers
Slack tension for the outer accessory belt as to remove it and do so.
Remove Idler anchored to engine mount.
Loosen bolts to adjustable tensioner for inner accessory belt; remove belt and idler assembly on the main timing cover.
Lock cams (preferrably with lockers, I find they make my one-man operations fly much smoother on timing jobs for the 6G72) to loosen Harmonic Dampener; remove it carefully.
Remove the 10mm nut anchoring the connection to the alternator, disconnect and secure out of harms' way.
Support engine, remove chassis-side half of the engine mount.
Remove Alternator mount bolts that secure to the motor-side engine mount; Remove the 12mm bolt (one of two, for LHD it is the 'right' bolt) at the front-of-car/top of alternator; loosen other slightly (the alternator will pivot, that is all you need)
Remove the remaining motor-side engine mount bolts so that it rests loosely
Remove small 10mm bolts securing the main timing cover
You can now remove the cover without actually removing the Alternator/Engine Mount, takes some finesse, but really not difficult.
Now you are in.

You may find it useless/irrelevant/etc for whatever reasons, but I found it really reduced the monotony and saved me adequate time. I remember the first time I removed the radiator, actually pulled the alternator, the mount, even the Power Steering! Haha what a mess... Anyways, sorry for the rant, I hope some of those steps are useful to you in any way.

[FRR35H]

failed at getting the engine to the mechanic yesterday
rang him as i was bout 20 minutes away only for him to tell me he cant take it till next week when he is in the new workshop so i had to leave it at my old work for a week
meh....