installing input sleeve questions - Page 2 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

Black_Sunshine · 04-08-2008, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RealMcCoy

You will need to find a piece of pipe, or similar round sleeve to fit just inside the gear teeth, in order to press it off without damaging the teeth. They're a pretty tight press fit, it could give your press a workout.

I have an old deep fryer that I use to heat up things like that.. Makes them go together very nicely, and you don't risk galling the parts and damaging the press fit. Besides, it makes everyone that comes around the shop start looking for the french fries..

thanks for the info

venetrex · 04-09-2008, 04:17 AM

How hot can you heat the thing before it's a problem. The manual for the tranmissions shows you heating a tool, like a heat sync in the over and applying it the gears before pulling them. I thought that was pretty trick. So that would be a thought.

RealMcCoy · 04-09-2008, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by venetrex

How hot can you heat the thing before it's a problem. The manual for the tranmissions shows you heating a tool, like a heat sync in the over and applying it the gears before pulling them. I thought that was pretty trick. So that would be a thought.

I use about 350deg.. I don't think I'd want to get it over around 500.

disturbedkorn · 04-09-2008, 09:29 AM

My 20 ton press would not do it. I have to take them to a machine shop and use their 40 ton press even after heating.

Do NOT put pressure on the bearings or gear teeth or you will damage them.

Freeze the new spool overnight and the gear and bearings will go on easier.

Boostaddict · 04-09-2008, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by venetrex

How hot can you heat the thing before it's a problem. The manual for the tranmissions shows you heating a tool, like a heat sync in the over and applying it the gears before pulling them. I thought that was pretty trick. So that would be a thought.

You can heat most steels to 1000-1100°F for brief periods without doing much harm. Anything over 400-500°F for extended periods of time (hours) will slowly temper the steel lowering its strength.

Black_Sunshine · 04-09-2008, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disturbedkorn

My 20 ton press would not do it. I have to take them to a machine shop and use their 40 ton press even after heating.

Do NOT put pressure on the bearings or gear teeth or you will damage them.

Freeze the new spool overnight and the gear and bearings will go on easier.

yikes. maybe i'll just have a machine shop do it then.

venetrex · 04-17-2008, 03:56 PM

I pulled mine apart last night. The side with just the bearing on it pressed off real easy with the arbor plated that cam with my press. However I need to get some blackiron from home depot to press the other side off. I assume this is the difficult one. Super car engineering has the seals, so I'm changing those as well. My new coupler I got from Ebay actually looks to be better made than the original. I'll update on my progress. Is is very easy to get the coupler and gear out. Just remove the bolts on the case where the sight plug is and it just falls out.

venetrex · 04-21-2008, 08:05 PM

Pressing the gear off of the coupler is not fun. 25 ton press and no go, it mushroomed the 2 inch black iron. Uggh. Then I heated the gear and tried my 12 ton press. Needless to say now my press needs rebuilding. I got dry ice and stuck the new coupler and the old one it. Used my ifrared laser thermometer and it was -41 degrees F. Put in 20 mton press with heating the gear and dry ice in the midle no dice. I used a ball joint removal sleeve that is hardened steel to fit over the coupler. Took a tig welder at 200a(my neighbors advice) and melted the inside of the old coupler. Put it back on ice then reheated the gear and the MF'r finally cam out. Took the gear and baked it in to over to 500 degrees for about 45 min. Took my new coupler at -50 degrees F and pressed the gear on, an all day project. So a 20 ton press will do it and the welding of the inside of the old coupler did the trick to break it loose. So I got it. Now I just have to put the rest of my car back together.

04-09-2008, 04:17 AM	#12 (permalink)
venetrex Someone else's mistakes Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: CT Drives: 1992 3000GT VR4 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: installing input sleeve questions How hot can you heat the thing before it's a problem. The manual for the tranmissions shows you heating a tool, like a heat sync in the over and applying it the gears before pulling them. I thought that was pretty trick. So that would be a thought.

04-09-2008, 09:29 AM	#14 (permalink)
disturbedkorn 3STech decimates all Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Des Moines, Iowa Drives: An all-weather racer Trader Rating: (5)	Re: installing input sleeve questions My 20 ton press would not do it. I have to take them to a machine shop and use their 40 ton press even after heating. Do NOT put pressure on the bearings or gear teeth or you will damage them. Freeze the new spool overnight and the gear and bearings will go on easier. __________________ Maddog Performance Engineering - - - Home of the 13T Record --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- We've done it all: 60k, 120k, turbo rebuilds, turbo upgrades, stereo installation, custom intercoolers, hybrid window regulators, ecu repairs, active areo motor rebuilds, manual conversion, rwd conversion, hybrid trans to name a few. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Located off of I-294 near 127th St. and Rt. 83 For a sales rep, please call 630-890-5033. Special this month: OEM parts at only a 45% markup.

04-17-2008, 03:56 PM	#17 (permalink)
venetrex Someone else's mistakes Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: CT Drives: 1992 3000GT VR4 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: installing input sleeve questions I pulled mine apart last night. The side with just the bearing on it pressed off real easy with the arbor plated that cam with my press. However I need to get some blackiron from home depot to press the other side off. I assume this is the difficult one. Super car engineering has the seals, so I'm changing those as well. My new coupler I got from Ebay actually looks to be better made than the original. I'll update on my progress. Is is very easy to get the coupler and gear out. Just remove the bolts on the case where the sight plug is and it just falls out.

04-21-2008, 08:05 PM	#18 (permalink)
venetrex Someone else's mistakes Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: CT Drives: 1992 3000GT VR4 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: installing input sleeve questions Pressing the gear off of the coupler is not fun. 25 ton press and no go, it mushroomed the 2 inch black iron. Uggh. Then I heated the gear and tried my 12 ton press. Needless to say now my press needs rebuilding. I got dry ice and stuck the new coupler and the old one it. Used my ifrared laser thermometer and it was -41 degrees F. Put in 20 mton press with heating the gear and dry ice in the midle no dice. I used a ball joint removal sleeve that is hardened steel to fit over the coupler. Took a tig welder at 200a(my neighbors advice) and melted the inside of the old coupler. Put it back on ice then reheated the gear and the MF'r finally cam out. Took the gear and baked it in to over to 500 degrees for about 45 min. Took my new coupler at -50 degrees F and pressed the gear on, an all day project. So a 20 ton press will do it and the welding of the inside of the old coupler did the trick to break it loose. So I got it. Now I just have to put the rest of my car back together.

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