3SX TD05 Kit install?

[94TTinga]

The snap ring coming off is the easy part, its putting it back on thats the hard part! Snap-on snap ring plyers FTW!

[Import Power]

Originally Posted by 94TTinga

The snap ring coming off is the easy part, its putting it back on thats the hard part! Snap-on snap ring plyers FTW!

I have and have tried many others, My snap on snap ring pliers are by far the best and make this job cake.

[SteveVR4]

Also wanted to mention as pointed out to me by Adam.
When you go to clock the housing there is also an alignment pin that needs to be removed or sheared off to allow the assembly to turn to a new location.

[AdamVR4]

Originally Posted by SteveVR4

Also wanted to mention as pointed out to me by Adam.
When you go to clock the housing there is also an alignment pin that needs to be removed or sheared off to allow the assembly to turn to a new location.

Funny, I save you guys a lot of pissed off customers and my post gets deleted.

There are TWO pins, do I need to say it a 3rd time? One of them is very easy to grind off (it's on the turbine housing). The other needs to be slowly drilled out (it will pretty much fall out once you start drilling into it). It's in the compressor housing. If you forget about the alignment pin in the compressor housing, you will CRACK your CENTER SECTION when you pound the c-clip back into place.

Go ahead, edit your post and delete this one.

[Patryn]

Kinda wondering why to the post got deleted too. Adam was just pointing out helpful information. Didn't notice any bashing or anything out of line with it. Anyways, for you troopers that are attempting to drill out the pins, its fairly easy. I just took and followed the write up on stealth316.com and it was easy as cake, make sure your drill bits are high quality.

[SteveVR4]

Adam's post was removed because inthe 1st section he tried to be helpful, in the second section he tried to be a jerk.

Here it is for those who don't believe:

"You guys either don't know, are forgetting to mention, or simply neglecting to mention the need to remove an alignment dowel from the compressor housing and grind down an alignment pin on the turbine housing. Unless of course those China GT's don't have them. For the sanity of your customers, however, you may want to consider those that use MHI 16G's.

You guys get paid to do this?"


I've had enough of people acting this way- therefore I rephrased it and credited him with his statement, but I do apologize for neglecting the other pin.

[Patryn]

Yeah, but you can just respond to him too. I've actually seen a couple of guys make the mistake of not removing one of the pins.

[3000GT@UAE]

OK where shall I start cause installing this kit is a nightmare!
Does anybody have the same problems as I have or is it just my kit? Lets get done to the major problems I am facing and i don t want to point out small details like the manifold gaskets are blocking the flow on the sides (in other words not the same size, they need to be cut more on both ends).
Installing the rear turbo was what really annoyed me.
1 The pipe coming from the manifold going to the wastegate had to be bent in, cause there was no way of installing it without it touching the rear valve cover! (The EWG pipe should have be designed closer to the turbo exhaust housing to clear the valve cover)
2 The rear pre cat was touching the gearbox bracket so we had to grind the bracket.

Still have to match the downpipe and I ll keep you posted on that. Overall installing the rear turbo is definitely not bolt on. Here are some pics of my bent pipe
Please tell me am I installing the kit incorrectly or is this kit not designed properly?

[SteveVR4]

Originally Posted by 3000GT@UAE

OK where shall I start cause installing this kit is a nightmare!
Does anybody have the same problems as I have or is it just my kit? Lets get done to the major problems I am facing and i don t want to point out small details like the manifold gaskets are blocking the flow on the sides (in other words not the same size, they need to be cut more on both ends).
Installing the rear turbo was what really annoyed me.
1 The pipe coming from the manifold going to the wastegate had to be bent in, cause there was no way of installing it without it touching the rear valve cover! (The EWG pipe should have be designed closer to the turbo exhaust housing to clear the valve cover)
2 The rear pre cat was touching the gearbox bracket so we had to grind the bracket.

Still have to match the downpipe and I ll keep you posted on that. Overall installing the kit is definitely not bolt on. Here are some pics of my bent pipe
Please tell me am I installing the kit incorrectly or is this kit not designed properly?

I have not seen or had an issue with the rear wastegate pipe hitting the valve cover in ones have installed, but it may be possible that when installing each part was tightened down seperately, rather than leaving everything loose until all the alignments were set and then tightened down. I do know it is made to clear as much as possible giving the tight space.Strange you had to dent it, but it won't hurt performance.

On the rear precat ,on some cars we have had to grind the bracket for extra clearance, but often aftermarket parts require some modifications to install as every car can be slightly different.

Please keep us posted on how the rest goes.
Remember if you have a kit from more than a couple of weeks ago, you will need to drill out you front swivel flange on your downpipe to a 14mm or 9/16" hole as I posted a couple weeks ago.

[3000GT@UAE]

We ve already tried that. We loosened every thing and pushed the pipe down while bolting everything back on but it didn t work.
Drilling the flange shouldn t be a problem.
Keep you guys posted