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#12 (permalink) |
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Dragon slayer
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I looked through my F.S.M. and didn't see anything about the location of the relay and so i called the mitsubishi dealership and they told me it was in the fuse box under the hood, but i checked my 99 and it didn't specify one for it, so i'm wondering which one it is, anybody got an idea?
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#13 (permalink) |
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Dragon slayer
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Just an update, i found the lock relay. Mitsu was wrong. it's in the cab, under the dash up behind the fuse box. It's a Biatch to work with. I pulled my 99's relay and put it in my 91. good news is i know both my relays are good, bad news is my problem is still happening. but hopefully the relay will fix your problems.
EDIT: here's a few pictures i just took! The Lock relay is the one on top ![]() and this is shows where it's at in relation to the fuse box. ![]() Last edited by 3000gt1999 : 02-19-2008 at 11:10 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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CAD 2D/3D
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I dont read all the post so i have maybe a fix (worked for me)
My car does something like that last summer. My problem was a broken wires on the driver hinge door connector??
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1992 Dodge Stealth RT N/A 5sp.Exactly Identical (*) 9 * Model, Interior & Exterior color, Equipment, Chassis Custom CNC parts Need 1st gen. NA head or TT Pics ![]() |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
I was tracking down problems with my locks/mirrors/passenger window (the window worked fine when hotwire, glad I didn't just buy a new one). Checking continuity and all that fun stuff and found that a few wires were cut/frayed/corroded in the driver's side door jam. Got new plugs, spent hours matching all the wires back up and made it clean, and everything worked! Good luck!
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![]() 1994 3000GT SL - Old Daily Driver SOLD 1993 VR4 with 150K miles - Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior/Sole Method of Transportation Go: eBay Tanabe Concept G Blue Replica TBE, Metal Evo DV, Maximals TC Bracket, PST Two Piece Steel/Aluminum Driveshaft, Seattle STS, Solid Shifter Bushings Monitoring: Palm M100 with MMCD, STRI X-Line Boost Gauge Maintenance: 120K with oil pump and main/rod bearings, MSD 8.5MM wires, NGK Platinum plugs, Redline/Castrol Fluids, New ECU, Lowes Pressure Tester, New IAC/PVC/etc. Show: '99 Garnish, Alan's Snake Eyes, Stealthy Wiper Mod, 3SX Aluminum Pedals |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Mitsubishi Junkie
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Your problem is likely the drivers door lock latch mechanism. There's a lock switch built into the doorlock actuator that responds to the position to the slider lock from the inside door handle. When you manually move the slider to the unlocked position, it actuvates this switch which signals the doors to unlock- and visa versa. When you unlock the door either by keyless transmitter, inside switch, or passenger switch- the doorlock actuator moves the slider to the unlocked position. For many different reasons, the slider may not make it fully to the unlocked position. This "tricks" the ETACS into thinking the lock slider from inside was moved to the lock position- and responds by locking the doors. This is common to alot of Mitsubishi models and NOT just the 3000GT. You can replace the entire assembly yourself- and the parts should be less than $45.
JJ
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![]() 1992 3000GT VR4 (tastefully modified) & 1996 STEALTH RT/TT #47 (restoration work in progress) |
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#17 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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Ok so I, along with what seems many others have tried replacing the lock relay with no effect. So I thought I might try looking at the wires in the door jam. I was just wonder from people that have done it before how hard it is to track down the wires if that they are the problem because I don't want to get myself into something that I won't be able to finish myself.
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#19 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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Measured whats going on with a multimeter. Its strange both locks keep getting pulses of about 7v. Iv cut the wire that links the actuators to the central locking as a temporary fix. Dont like the idea of my car unlocking itself outside uni
. Im thinking i mite just wire my alarm straight onto the passenger actuator aswel and leave the central locking deleted, i never use the key anyway...Any ideas would be appreciated |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Paid Member
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As I read this thread I was getting hope but by the end I have no idea what to do, I dont have keys to the doors just an aftermarket alarm, my pass side door doesnt lock at all, my drivers side door locks but when you press to unlock it, it unlocks and relocks, you have to grab the door at the right time to open it, gay.
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