![]() |
![]() |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
Hey everyone. been looking at a 1996 3kGT SL DOHC that took my interest. I've been wanting to get into a 3000GT for awhile and have finally saved enough money. before i go test drive this car, i was wondering what else i need to ask them about (besides the 60k/120k tune-ups) and what to expect from it being at 139,600 miles. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
![]() |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement |
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
well from what i gathered it does run, so far the problems with it lnclude the paint damage on the hood (picture didnt turn out correctly) which is easily fixable, and brake shoes and calipers will probably get me killed on the return trip lol. as far as anything else goes, no idea until i arrive there. /: And i live in Butte.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
3SX FTL
|
I usually don't ask too many questions when I'm test driving a car, 3/S or otherwise.
Find out when it had its last timing belt service. Ask the seller what problems he's noticed. You could ask the seller about the previous owners too, but that probably won't tell you much. What's more important is how you drive the car. Any issues that the seller would have told you about should be apparent in the drive--and any issues that aren't are hidden enough that the seller knows he doesn't need to tell you about them anyway (unless the seller is a moron). Make sure you beat on the car when you drive it. Run out several gears, use the full rev range, take it on the highway and hit the brakes, go find some potholes or rough road to run it through, saw at the wheel, etc. Put the car in the air and give it a thorough check for leaks. With that age and mileage, I imgaine it'll have a little drip here and there down the pan or whatnot, but there shouldn't be major leaks at the pan or transmission case. If there are, you can use them to haggle on price. Inspect the exhaust for leaks, wiggle the front suspension around, and take a look at the rack and CV joint boots for signs of damage. If you do all this, you'll have a good idea of exactly what's wrong with the car and what it needs. Clint
__________________
The Pansy Patrol
1995 3000GT VR-4 but real niggaz don't give a fuck: V1, comprehensive denastificizzle, vishizzous accessory biznelt mod, K&N, Greddy Profec B S-P-to-tha-izzec II, S-AFC, Walbro 341, DSM 450s, n AEM UEGO; battery relocizzle K-R-to-tha-izzank Vents, EK2MFG fizzle rizzle loop n plenum spaca, lethal_vr4 manual gang bangin' rizzay, SKVR4 AWS delete, polyurethane motor mounts, adjustable control arms, SS brakes lines, n EGR blockoffs; Custom brakes lines wit cockpit-mounted adjustable proportion'n valve, 332mm Stoptechs, Carbotech Brotha Plus/Porterfield Rizzle ATE Pusha Blue, OZ Gang Bangin' F1 Plus 17x9.5 +36mm, Yokohama AVS ES100 275/40/17, Tein Fizzle w/EDFC n SCE Casta/Camba Plates, SCE oilpan, DSM sidemounts, DN Precat Eliminizzles 13G/9B combo (9psi springs), J-spec final drive, RPS flyhweel n Spec II clutch, IPO propane, ATR downpipe, tizzest pipe, n Single Shot1994 Mazda Protege DX: 260K miles, DOHC 1.8L swap, rear disc brake conversion, poorly-designed header, some cheap-ass suspension upgrades, Carbotech XP8/AX6, 15x7 +30 Kazera KZ-M w/ Avon Tech Ra slicks, other crap here and there (like an air filter that doesn't have 1/4 of a million miles), arguably the fastest piece of shit in New England and no one can do anything about it ![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
well thank you guys, really appreciate the help. goin to write up a nice little checklist before i go and make sure i hit everything that you mentioned. Hopefully i can start rebuilding it by Fall. (=
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
also was looking for aftermarket i could revamp this thing with, not sure what all i can put in it since its non-turbo. Any sites that have parts for it? or is there a chance i can just install a vr4's stock turbo and basically have the vr4 engine?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) | |||
|
3/S enthusiast
|
Quote:
For after market parts check out the 3si supporting vendors sites. For information regarding TT'ing an N/A 3s check out this area of 3si as it's entirely devoted to questions regarding this.
__________________
Mods ------------------------- 1991 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR4---------------My website If you live in the Delaware, Maryland, or Virginia area check out our website and 3si chapter forum |
|||
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) |
|
Fhsballin21
|
When in doubt, read the Bible N/A UPGRADE BIBLE.
__________________
who said something about oil bitch? you cookin?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) |
|
New User - Please be kind
|
alrighty xD, 1 more question and i'll leave you guys alone (; I see that TT conversion, and was wondering if its truly worth my time and money, or should i just stick with N/a. (Basically which is the better deal for the power per dollar)
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
92 VR4 | Cobalt SS/SC
|
Buy a VR4 or RT/TT if you're looking for power. Converting to a VR4 or RTTT would require AWD drivetrain swap as well as TT conversion unless you're fine with staying FWD. I'd say enjoy the SL as you get into the platform and just experience it for a while. If you find it's what you're looking for, go for a VR4 or RT/TT later on.
__________________
94 3000GT Base - Sold
![]() 92 3000GT VR-4 - Spun bearing mod. Daily Driver: Cobalt SS/SC Dyno: 228whp 204tq (w/CAI, Cat-back, S2 and 3.06" pulley) AEM CAI || GM S2 Tune || S2 Injectors || 2.9" S/C Pulley (3.35 stock) || CIA 4-2-1 Header/Downpipe || Magnaflow Cat-Back Exhaust || NGK Copper Plugs || BWoody Solid Front Transmission Mount || Ingall's Torque Damper || DC Sports Front Strut Tower Bar || 35% Carbon Black Tint || ARK Shorty Antennae ![]() |
|
|
|