Running rich, washer sprayers, and transportation

[armor123]

Ok, I need some technical help, silly help, and a referral please.

1. My 92 Stealth is running rich and idles high (900 rpm) and the shop can't get it to pump less fuel. They key mods are an A'Pexi SFAC, 550 injectors, 15g's...they've hooked up a computer and it sees the ECU, but can't do anything to it. Thoughts?

2. Where can I get replacement windshield washer sprayers? Mine are not working right, poked a pin in there and it did nothing in the front and the back sprayer is shooting over the spoiler. It's great for getting kids but not good for vision. Can't find them on mitsubishiparts.com.

3. Getting ready to move from Texas to Virginia and I don't want to drive it so I'm looking for a quality company to move my car at a reasonable price.

Thanks for the assistance!

[RedHotChiliStealth]

1. ecu is old as hell and may not be running 100%. not too sure though electronics+me= me getting shocked a lot

2. have you checked the local junkyard? and dont fix the back one, i had the same thing happen on my jeep cherokee by far best mod ever makes driving a lot more fun

3. cant really help ya on that, just make sure you get stand up guys. My fathers friend custom builds muscle cars and has tons of overseas buyers and one time when he was getting it shipped a mover got in it to put it in one of those huge metal containers and i guess the guy had never driven a car w/ 500 hp but any way he ran straight into the other end of the container and destroyed the front end

[andyvr4]

1.) Are you still using the factory FPR. If so then there's a good chance that you might be over running it. If you hook up a aftermarket fuel pressure gauge you should see around 38-39 psi at idle and around 42-43 at full boost.

The idle isn't normal, but I've seen several of these cars do this. Mine has always idled at about 1000 and I've never been able to get it to go any lower, it just seems that that's where the computer wants the car to idle at.

3.) Welcome to Virginia, you might want to check out the delmarva3s chapter that you can find links to in my sig.

Edit - Currently our website is down do to a hosting issue that should be resolved very shortly.

[Alt0id]

Mentor Mitsubishi Parts

Could try that, I'd make sure that it is getting power before buying it though, might be something electrical.

[Alt0id]

Originally Posted by RedHotChiliStealth

3. cant really help ya on that, just make sure you get stand up guys. My fathers friend custom builds muscle cars and has tons of overseas buyers and one time when he was getting it shipped a mover got in it to put it in one of those huge metal containers and i guess the guy had never driven a car w/ 500 hp but any way he ran straight into the other end of the container and destroyed the front end

sorry but that is sort of funny. i Mean its not, but it is.

[armor123]

One of the four front nozzles sprays the others kinda spit and hit the windshield if I'm moving forward. And pins didn't unclog them except the one that shoots over the spoiler in the back.

[Alt0id]

still sounds like a clog, i'd take a look at the physical lines.

[iceman_ii]

Originally Posted by andyvr4

1.) Are you still using the factory FPR. If so then there's a good chance that you might be over running it. If you hook up a aftermarket fuel pressure gauge you should see around 38-39 psi at idle and around 42-43 at full boost.

I agree with the part about over-running the factory FPR, but as to the rest... ahhh - not so much.

You should be seeing 43psi across the injectors, notice that there is that little vacuum line connected to the FPR, this is so that if you are in vacuum like at idle, it is less than 43, and when you are at boost, it adds to the pressure so you can maintain a ΔP of 43psi across the injectors... so at 10psi boost, you will have 53psi in the rails... you get the picture?

Over-running the FPR is a phenomena that usually occurs in vacuum, and goes away as the boost (and the IDCs) increase., the reason is that at manifold vacuum with low IDCs, the FPR needs to physically pass more fuel that its aperture allows to keep the pressure low enough. Are you running rich all the time, or only at idle? Do you have a logger? You have an SAFC for Gods sake, have you tried to tune your car leaner? you can even tune the lower RPM bands (sub 1000rpm) to compensate for over-running the FPR at idle. With an SAFC and 550s, there is no reason to run rich, what are your SAFC settings? They ought to be somewhere around -27 to -30ish.

Originally Posted by Alt0id

still sounds like a clog, i'd take a look at the physical lines.

If it were a physical line, the one that works would have its mate in the same head working as well, yet only one of the two is dribbling. The problem is that people get wax in the nozzles when they wax the car, and using a pin may remove the wax, or it may drive it down deeper into the nozzle.

[iceman_ii]

Have you tried resetting the idle?

Condensed from the service manual:
(1) Before starting the inspection and adjustment procedures,
set the vehicle in the following conditions:

• Engine coolant temperature: 80 to 95°C (176 to 203°F)
• Lights, electric cooling fan, accessories: OFF
• Transaxle: Neutral (P range on vehicles with automatic transaxle)
• Steering wheel: Straightforward position

(2) Connect the scan tool to the data link connector (white)

(3) If not using the scan tool, proceed as follows:

1) Insert a paper clip into the l-pin blue connector as
shown in the illustration.

2) Connect a primary-voltage-detecting tachometer to
the paper clip.

3) Using a jumper wire, ground the diagnostic test mode
control terminal (terminal (10)) of the data link connector
(white).

(4) Remove the waterproof female connector from the ignition
timing adjusting connector (brown).

(5) Using a jumper wire, ground the ignition timing adjusting
terminal.

(6) Start the engine and run at idle.

(7) Check the basic idle speed. - Basic idle speed: 700 + 50 rpm

(8) If the basic idle speed is out of specification, adjust by
turning the engine speed adjusting screw.

If you don't have a service manual, I HIGHLY recommend you get one, you can get them on EBAY on CD for about 15, or if you come to the texas gathering, I usually have a few extra copies to give away.