New Owner F.A.Q. Development Thread

[stealthify]

Wasn't a problem at all The first question was on the index, but it had not been answered yet. And the second question should have been in the index but I didn't think of it until you mentioned it.

So, in other words, you inspired us to provide answers for those two questions. We owe it to ya.

[JoltSword]

Ill say it again since it was pretty much dismissed: If the tires havent rotated in a year, the weight of the car will have produced flat spots, making them shitty tires. They wont be flat tires, but they wont be really round anymore. Best to replace them before they screw anything up

[inperfectdarkness]

she should get new rims anyways, and will probably need new tires for those, so *shrug*

[stealthify]

Alright guys I'm ready to wrap this thread up. Time to help the New Owners once and for all.

Here we go...

[stealthify]

What is the difference between the Stealth Base/ES/RT/RTTT:
The Dodge Stealth was produced for a total of six years. From 1991 to 1996, four different trims were available for potential buyers to select from. These include the Base model, ES model, RT model and RT/TT model. From 1991 to 1993, all four options were produced. However, from 1994 to 1996 the ES model was dropped – leaving just the Base, RT and RT/TT.

Cosmetically, the Base and ES Stealth’s have a lot of similarities. Here is what you can expect to see with these two particular models:

A few key things to take note of (that help differentiate the Base/ES from the RT and RT/TT) include the gray plastic pillars (which you will notice does not have vents near the rear window). You will also notice that the headlights and roof are painted the same color as the car, as well as the lack of a side vent on the lower door/sideskirts. However, three of the most noticeable exterior features include the taillights that slightly resemble that of the 3000GT, as well as the black/gray plastic trim piece that circles around the entire mid-section of the car, and ultimately the rounded front bumper. I should also note that the Stealth ES/Base taillights are NOT the same size as the 3000GT taillights, as the Stealth’s version is a bit taller.
Interior wise, both the Base and ES models speedometer maxes at 160mph, often comes with a Manual Air Conditioning control unit, cloth seats, no steering wheel radio controls, and the option of manual windows/locks.

Visually, the RT and RT/TT are very similar as well. As shown below:

One of the first things that may jump out at you on the sleek surfaces of the RT and RT/TT would be the taillights. No longer a full bar that stretches across the back of vehicle, these taillights are one of a kind. Another quite noticeable difference would be the headlights and roof on the 1991-1993 RT and RT/TT models, which are black (no matter what color the rest of your car is). The black-top idea was dropped for the 94-96 years. You’ll also notice that the side vent has returned on the lower door/sideskirts, as well as the extra scoops on the front bumper. These extra scoops were intended for the stock intercoolers on the RT/TT model, however the RT sports them as well. Furthermore the black/gray trim piece circling the car was not an option for the RT and RT/TT models, and the black/gray pillars are now painted the same color as the car (you’ll also notice vent openings in the rear pillar as well). Last but not least, the 94-96 RT and RT/TT bumpers have rib-like ridges that set it apart from the 91-93 RT and RT/TT rear bumpers.
To tell the difference between the RT model and RT/TT Stealths (all years), you will notice that the RT/TT Stealth has an extra exhaust outlet on the passenger side. You can also look at the rear quarter window, which will say ‘AWD’, ‘DOHC’ and/or ‘Twin Turbo’ on it. The side door-caps should also have ‘Twin Turbo’ badges on it.
If you take a look in the interior, you’ll notice that (just like the Base/ES models) that the Stealth RT speedometer also maxes out at 160mph, while the Stealth RT/TT maxes at 180mph. Leather seats were also an option for the RT and RT/TT models, as well as the Digital Climate Control. Power window/locks are standard.
When it comes to engine and power, the Base/ES/RT and RT/TT models are grouped a bit differently. Shown below:

Between the 4 different trims, there are only 3 main engine setups. This includes the SOHC for the Base models (164hp), the DOHC for the ES and RT models (222hp) and DOHC Twin-Turbo setup on the RT/TT models (300hp for the 91-93, and 320hp for the 94-96). In the United States, the 4-speed automatic transmission was available for the Base, ES and RT models however were NOT an option in the RT/TTs (which only came as manuals). From 94 to 96, the 6-Speed Manual transmission was an option for the RT/TT’s only, while the other Manual transmissions were available in 5-Speeds.

[stealthify]

What changed throughout the six years that the Stealth was produced?:
Cosmetically, there are a handful of things that changed throughout the years that the Stealth was produced (which was from 1991 to 1996). When judging bodystyles, you will notice that the 1991 through 1993 (First Generation) Dodge Stealth’s are quire similar. Nothing noteworthy was really changed during these years, but once 1994 set in the following changes came with it:

• The pop-up headlights were removed
• The front bumper was smoothed out (a bit more rounded looking)
• The turn-signals were slightly changed
• The side vents on the RT and RT/TT models were smoothed over
• The black-top on the RT and RT/TT became the same color as the rest of the car
• The black/gray trim surrounding the Base/ES Stealths came painted the same color as the rest of the car
• The hood blisters were smoothed over (using lumps instead)
• The rear bumper on the RT and RT/TT added a ribs/ridges styling to it
• The ES model Stealth was removed from the Stealth lineup (leaving just the Base, RT and RT/TT)

As far as the engine/performance side goes, the RT/TT was the only year that changed HP ratings in 1994. Going from 300hp to 320hp, however it is easy for 1991-1993 Stealth RT/TT’s to upgrade to 320hp. Search for the Free Boost Mod. Other history between the years include:

• Half way through 1992 the Stealth went from a 18-spline to a 25-spline tranny
• Half way through 1993, the RT/TT’s came with larger rotors & 2 piston rear calipers
• In 1993, the stock shifter became shorter
• In 1993, the Stealth’s came with a 4 bolt main and forged crank
• In 1994, the stock HP rating for the RT/TT went from 300hp to 320hp
• In 1994, a passenger side airbag was added
• In 1994, the RT/TT’s came with a stronger (cast iron) Transfer Case
• In 1994, the 6-speed transmissions were introduced

Last but not least, the 1996 Dodge Stealth came with a unique spoiler that is a bit different than the other years.

[stealthify]

What needs to be done at the 60k / 120k service?:
This is probably one of the most crucial services that your car REQUIRES. It should be pointed out that this isn’t just suggested, as many problems could follow if this service is not performed. The following parts will need to be replaced during the 60k/120k:

• Timing Belt (MD193874)
• Tensioner (MD319040)
• Water Pump (MD972005)
• Thermostat (MD174234)
• Power Steering Belt (MD172376)
• Accessory (A/C) Belt (No AC: MD187463 / With AC: MB879764)
• Fuel Filter (MB658136)
• Throttle Body Gasket (MD180361)
• Intake Plenum Gasket (MD143791)
• Spark Plug Wires (MD193980)

The price for this service can range from $300 to $1,500 depending on where you go. If you find someone that is willing to do this service for under $600.00, for example, you are getting a fairly nice deal. The time this service takes can range anywhere from 5 hours to 11 hours

[stealthify]

What are the common problems with these cars, and how much does it generally cost to fix it?:
There are SO many problems that are fairly common, and fortunately finding an answer for them here on 3si is pretty easy. If you are in the market to purchase a Stealth or a 3000GT, here are a few things that you should keep an eye out for:

• Broken window regulators ($100 to $250)
• Cracked transfer case/leaking oil (Under federal recall: free!)
• Flashing tour/sport light (unplugged wire on ECS)
• Brake light flash on acceleration (low brake fluid)
• Yellow indicator light flashes on turns (low window washer fluid)
• Water leaking into the car (often through the rear hatch)
• Car smokes a lot during idle (head gasket/etc - $1000+)
• Lifter tick (inevitable, possibly research 3rd generation lifters $350+)
• Active Aero not working (check wiring)
• Alarm goes off randomly (check hood/door triggers)
• Locks randomly activate/deactivate (ETACs $150, or Door Switches $35, or wiring)
• Snapped timing belt (if not replaced every 60k)
• Broken radio antenna ($50 to $100)
• Grinding into 1st and/or 2nd gear (going syncros, $1000+)
• Cracked dash vents ($50 to $90)
• Ripping/cracking leather seats ($300 to $750 to reupholster)
• SRS light on (Free – unplug bulb in gauge cluster)
• Leaking oil on valve cover ($10.00 for replacement oil cap with better seal)

It may seem like a long list, but fortunately just about all of the above are fairly easy to fix.

[stealthify]

When taking a corner, I notice a yellow colored indicator light flashes on my main cluster. What is that and why does it only flash on turns?:
While taking a corner, you may notice a small yellow indicator light flash on the main gauge cluster. Chances are, you have no idea what the picture is supposed to depict (I don’t blame you, it looks more like the Lincoln Memorial than anything else.) All this light it trying to tell you is that your coolant is running low. Simply top it off, or don’t take corners so aggressively.

[stealthify]

My brake light turns on when I give my car some hard acceleration. Why does it do this, especially since my emergency break is down?:
This is a sign that your car is about to explode, sell it immediately.

Just kidding. This is a clear sign that your brake fluid is low. Fill it, and you should be good to go. If this does not fix it, another reported solution could be to check the connector switch on the e-brake. You can readjust this by taking off the center console, and you then should be able to see the plate that the e-brake touches to make the light come on.

Oddly enough, a few members have also mentioned that under very hard acceleration, your e-brake might lift slightly (especially if it is loose), which also might trigger the light. Put some weight on it, tightening it, or even smoothing it in duct-tape could be the solution for this scenario.