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#41 (permalink) |
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work for 3s mod
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Yeah i vote for letting us choose. But as you can see I already edited the list. Put that refrain from buying until site is up or until we get all the issues resolved. Because the last thing newbs need is somebody who is going to screw them, not saying that any of the shops listed will do it, just as a precaution.
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#42 (permalink) |
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Banned from Classifieds
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That is true, the new owners probably will be the most vulnerable to falling into scandalous sales deals if they don't take the time to research the company through the search feature. However, it is a touchy subject. I'd like to keep the FAQ as neutral as possible. As opposed to telling people "don't buy from so-and-so", I'd think it would be more beneficial to let the trader ratings speak for themselves. If you want, I'll go through and add them in your post - I just see it as the easiest way for new members to get an understanding of what each company has a history of doing WITHOUT flat out saying "Mr. X is a scam artist", etc. The trader rating (thus far) is a fair system for all companies.
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#44 (permalink) |
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Banned from Classifieds
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Back for some more
![]() What needs to be done at the 60k Service?- One of the most important maintenance steps that 3000GT/Stealth owners should take is to make sure that the 60k is done ON TIME. It is important, and the reason being that by neglecting to do the 60k service on your car, you are greatly increasing your chances of having some very unfortunate mechanical errors happen to your car that you'd probably rather not deal with. Here are the parts you will need to perform this service:
The job is a rather lengthy one, and whether you do it yourself or if you have a shop do it - you can expect it to take up most of the day to complete. This is a required service for these cars, and the consequences of not doing it could result in a broken timing belt - which, 9 times out of 10, will completely destroy your engine. Prices for this service can range from $350.00 to $1000.00, depending on where you take it. If you plan on doing it yourself, here is a guide to assist you: http://www.team3s.com/60k.htm ![]() |
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#46 (permalink) |
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bane of unintelligence
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ironic that it's coming from a sworn devoted atx driver (so forgive me), but...
double clutching is this: instead of depressing the clutch, moving the shifter into the next gear, and then releasing the clutch. you should: depress the clutch, shift into neutral, rev the engine till you hit the rpm band for that gear at that speed, shift into the next gear, release the clutch. this saves on the snycros for the car, because you are more rmp matched for the gears. this is also why when your syncros are nearing the "SHOT" phase of life, you can still drive your car, if you're talented. -thadd. |
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#47 (permalink) |
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Kills Threads Dead
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I thought double-clutching was unnecessary in these cars. I also was under the impression that it is only for downshifts
__________________
Poor College Student Mod
1991 Blue Mitsubishi 3000GT SL MTX- Emily |
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#48 (permalink) |
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Banned from Classifieds
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You both are correct.
The entire point of double clutching is to "RPM match." For normal driving, double-clutching is more often used while downshifting though (more reading as follows):http://www.epinions.com/auto-review-...3A351631-prod4 |
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#49 (permalink) |
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Kills Threads Dead
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Hah, Ive actually read that article before.
I also thought this was a good read: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ft/index.shtml |
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#50 (permalink) |
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Whoa....
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Why does my car sound like an owl when I accelerate?
On your Turbo-charged car, there are a few special pieces that N/A cars don't have, a Blow Off Valve or BOV is one of them. Your BOV acts as a pressure release valve for your car. When your turbos produce boost, it flows into your combustion chamber, when you let off the gas, the Throttle Body plate closes, but there is still boost trapped in your lines leading from the turbos to your Throttle Body, this is where the BOV comes into play. Instead of the boost flowing back into your turbo and causing backspin or compressor surge (your turbos violently start to spin backward...VERY BAD)your BOV opens and the boost is released through this valve. (That is the whoosh sound) When you are accelerating and you hear a hooting sound, it usually means that your BOV is leaking (releasing pressure when it should be closed) There is really only one fix that I know of which is to replace the BOV. It is located coming off the Y-pipe and connecting back to your air-splitter (If anyone knows the technical term please add!) behind and under your MAS.
__________________
LNF
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