New Owner F.A.Q. Development Thread

[inperfectdarkness]

Originally Posted by stealthify

When taking a corner, I notice a yellow colored indicator light flashes on my main cluster. What is that and why does it only flash on turns?:
While taking a corner, you may notice a small yellow indicator light flash on the main gauge cluster. Chances are, you have no idea what the picture is supposed to depict (I don’t blame you, it looks more like the Lincoln Memorial than anything else.) All this light it trying to tell you is that your window washer fluid is running low. Simply top it off, or don’t take corners so aggressively.

sorry to break in, but that's actually the COOLANT indicator. it's supposed to look like a freaking radiator. anyways, if you see it, you need to add more coolant.

-thadd.

[stealthify]

Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness

sorry to break in, but that's actually the COOLANT indicator. it's supposed to look like a freaking radiator. anyways, if you see it, you need to add more coolant.

-thadd.

I stand corrected:
MY FIRST WARNING LIGHT! what is it?

Post fixed.

[showbiztonite]

I love this thread it really answerd a lot of my questions. Thanks and keep up the great work. Phil

[stealthify]

I'm glad it helped Showbiztonite Here shortly I plan on cleaning it up a bit in order to make it even more user-friendly. I really hope members are getting good use out of it.

Plus its nice to see members working together to come up with the answers that are asked all so often.

[inperfectdarkness]

here's another question, that appearently we missed.

"can i use regular unleaded in an n/a?"

the answer is...yes, but you may experience a small performance loss.

-thadd.

p.s. how busy are you shaun? beginning to wonder, if you can't respond to my pm's or emails, how much harder is it to actually get the work done on one of you interior light kits?

[stealthify]

Originally Posted by inperfectdarkness

here's another question, that appearently we missed.

"can i use regular unleaded in an n/a?"

the answer is...yes, but you may experience a small performance loss.

-thadd.

p.s. how busy are you shaun? beginning to wonder, if you can't respond to my pm's or emails, how much harder is it to actually get the work done on one of you interior light kits?

Hey Thadd - thanks for contributing to the thread again. I've updated the main index, and added your answer to it.

As far as the business related question goes, I'll fill you in on the details as far as turnaround times go (just to keep business separate from this sticky). I admit that we do have a lot on our plate right now, but I'm not trying to ignore you in any way. I'll get back to your email ASAP.

[Dave57]

Keyless entry

Need help with keyless entry...PLEASE!

http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=272168

[golfpro]

I've just discovered that my key won't unlock the doors. It works fine in the ignition switch and rear hatch, but not the doors. I have keyless remote and the doors lock and unlock fine with the remote. What's wrong with my key?

Many owners with remote entry power locks never use their key to unlock either the driver or passenger doors. Years of disuse will allow corrosion to build up within the lock cylinder to the point that it will freeze up.

Try the following to see if it helps any:

1. Try spraying liberal amounts of WD-40 inside the lock with the little hose attachment that comes with it. Now spray it again, and again, and again. Stick your key inside the lock and pull it back out. Repeat this process 15-20 times. You can also spray WD-40 on the key itself and insert it into the lock.

2. Then using your key. If it does not work try GENTLY wiggling it up and down, left to right to see if you can get it to turn. Try again and again until you get tired of trying. Apply enough pressure to try and turn the lock, but not so much that you might bend your key.

3. Pull your key out of the lock about .5-1mm and try wiggling/turning at the same time. Keep wiggling and try again.

If none of this works then something really weird is going on. Usually the above will work on a worn key, or if there is a bent wafer. All the jiggling should allow the wafer to move enough to turn the lock. If it's merely atrophy from lack of use, the lubricant should free up the lock cylinder. If all else fails you might have to have a new key cut. Go to reputable locksmith for this service, not your neighborhood hardware store, or Walmart. If a new key does not solve the problem, you may have to remove the lock cylinder itself and have it cleaned or repaired. Again, by a reputable locksmith.

I have had three cars with seized lock cylinders and the WD-40 treatment worked on all three. For regular maintenance of your door locks, a lubricant that will not attract dirt and grime should be used. Powdered grahite lubricant is best.

-golfpro (Thanks to "tockaygecko" for an early post that provided the basis for this information.

[3kgt95]

can u put second generator headlights into a 1st generation

[inperfectdarkness]

Originally Posted by golfpro

I've just discovered that my key won't unlock the doors. It works fine in the ignition switch and rear hatch, but not the doors. I have keyless remote and the doors lock and unlock fine with the remote. What's wrong with my key?

Many owners with remote entry power locks never use their key to unlock either the driver or passenger doors. Years of disuse will allow corrosion to build up within the lock cylinder to the point that it will freeze up.

Try the following to see if it helps any:

1. Try spraying liberal amounts of WD-40 inside the lock with the little hose attachment that comes with it. Now spray it again, and again, and again. Stick your key inside the lock and pull it back out. Repeat this process 15-20 times. You can also spray WD-40 on the key itself and insert it into the lock.

2. Then using your key. If it does not work try GENTLY wiggling it up and down, left to right to see if you can get it to turn. Try again and again until you get tired of trying. Apply enough pressure to try and turn the lock, but not so much that you might bend your key.

3. Pull your key out of the lock about .5-1mm and try wiggling/turning at the same time. Keep wiggling and try again.

If none of this works then something really weird is going on. Usually the above will work on a worn key, or if there is a bent wafer. All the jiggling should allow the wafer to move enough to turn the lock. If it's merely atrophy from lack of use, the lubricant should free up the lock cylinder. If all else fails you might have to have a new key cut. Go to reputable locksmith for this service, not your neighborhood hardware store, or Walmart. If a new key does not solve the problem, you may have to remove the lock cylinder itself and have it cleaned or repaired. Again, by a reputable locksmith.

I have had three cars with seized lock cylinders and the WD-40 treatment worked on all three.

-golfpro (Thanks to "tockaygecko" for an early post that provided the basis for this information.

i'll but in here, to save some trouble. golfpro has some good advice. i happen to work at THE HOME DEPOT, though, and trust me, if you put WD40 in a lock, it's not a good thing. the lubricant of CHOICE for any type of lock is POWERED GRAPHITE; which will NOT attract foreign debris.

-thadd.