Just bought a vr4 where to start?

[kywhitelightning]

Originally Posted by stealthxtreme4

That list has a few deficiencies...

It's a good reference. If you pay attention it's not ment to be a build plan, just a reference to start from. Not going to argue the validity of either of these references because they are just that references. If you have something to add constructively then by all means explain these deficiencies, if not the thread starter gains nothing from the above statement. I'm trying to help a fellow 3Ser what are you doing?

[VR3.9]

When you change plugs you might as well know how much boost you want to run. Do a search on blow by. You will need a smaller gap to push 14lbs. most likely.

[kywhitelightning]

.038" works fine for me but have heard others going as low as .032". Be aware when you regap your spark plugs lower than manufacturers specifications you will create more exhaust emissions which may turn on the CEL. Mine came on at .034" so I stay safely at .038". SM specifies .039"-.043". Good point VR3.9.

[veerfour05]

Originally Posted by VR3.9

When you change plugs you might as well know how much boost you want to run. Do a search on blow by. You will need a smaller gap to push 14lbs. most likely.

Spark blow out, but right idea.

I run .034" with 15psi

[e46m3]

Originally Posted by kywhitelightning

Before you start making crazy decisions about your build, first decide where you will be driving this car the most. Street cars aren't the best track cars and definitely vise versa. Next come up with a real HP goal. You will be basing most of your aftermarket parts from this. Remember that the further you go from stock the more likely you are to break so if this is your DD you will have to be careful with insane amounts of HP. I only say this because if you search through the old threads you will find a lot of people that have high HP cars and wish they would have kept them stock. Finaly, be careful and ask a lot of questions before you buy something. I learned this one the hard way.

Good luck with your build and here's a good link to begin with RTEC Engineering - 3000GT staged upgrades

This is good too:

Stage 1: This stage is meant to make the car breathe easier and turn up the boost. Approx. total HP gain is 65hp.

3-5hp - Open element intake (K&N FIPK, HKS MegaFlow, etc.)
8-12hp - Cat-back exhaust (Borla, Greddy, ATR, HKS, etc.)
30-50hp - *Electronic Boost controller (Blitz DSBC, Greddy Profec, HKS EVC, APexi, etc.) - turning boost from stock boost level to 14.5-15psi

*Remember to re-gap spark plugs to allow for higher boost levels - see here for info on re-gapping plugs

Stage 2: Continued Improved Breathing. Approx. total HP gain is 12hp.

3hp - Hi-flow Catalytic Converter
8hp - Downpipe
1-2hp - Gut pre-cats
N/a - BOV (blow-off valve) - no hp gain here but spools turbos faster giving the feeling of improved power.
N/a - Y-Pipe (stock tends to come undone at higher boost levels than stock)

Stage 3: Get a grip! The stock clutch will begin to show its limitations at about 400hp. Approx. total HP gain is 10-15hp.

N/a - Clutch
10-15hp - Lightweight flywheel

Stage 4: Fuel management. Approx. total HP gain is N/a*.

Fuel Injectors (450cc, 550cc or 720cc)
High-flow Fuel Pump
AFC (air flow converter), VPC (vein pressure converter), or ARC2

*Note that this modification does not directly increase hp but allows for running higher boost levels without having a lean air/fuel ratio. It is these higher boost levels that account for increased hp.

Stage 5: It's Turbo Time! Approx. total HP gain depends on turbo selected.

40hp - 13g Turbos
80hp - 15g Turbos
100hp - 17g Turbos
??? - 357 Turbos
??? - 368 Turbos

Stage 6: Cool it down! Approx. total HP gain is 22-45hp.

20-40hp - Intercoolers (front mount, side mount)
N/a - Alcohol or Water Injection System*
2-5hp - Ignition System

*Note that this modification does not directly increase hp but allows for running higher boost levels without having a lean air/fuel ratio. It is these higher boost levels that account for increased hp.

Stage 7: Open it up and smooth it out! Approx. total HP gain with stock turbos and stock fuel system is 10-30hp.

10-30hp* - Port and polish heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds (extrude hone)

*Note that this modification improves performance dramatically once the fuel system and turbos have been upgraded. Performance after those steps have been completed can range from 50-100hp.

These HP figures you are giving are they at they fly wheel, or at the wheels?

Thanks

Edit- I guess Fly but wanan be sure

[stans3000gt]

Originally Posted by e46m3

These HP figures you are giving are they at they fly wheel, or at the wheels?

Thanks

Edit- I guess Fly but wanan be sure

Yes these are flywheel no at the wheels, I am sure we all wish. Also these are just a reference like said before they are not Very accurate. After putting everything you can afford see how the car feels, if its a good amount of hp, and I say good becuase there is never enough haha! Take the car to a dyno and see what you are getting becuase we all know only power to the wheels is what counts.

[stans3000gt]

Dont want to hijack the thread but this is kind of on topic I just purchased the Mitsu OEM spark plug wires, and I also purchased the PLatinum spark plugs. Should those come pre-gapped and is the gap at .034??? What is the correct way to change the gap on the platinums. Reason why I am asking I will be dropping those in and after I am done doing all the maintanace I will be buying a MBC or EBC and I will be running it at 14psi as my DD.

[Kaz03]

As mentioned, do your maint. first. Search for info on common things that need replacing on your 93. Things that may not be normal maint. ie-oil cooler lines, carrier bearings, tb o rings, that kind of thing. Inspect your ecu and ecs caps. Again, inspect your ecu and ecs caps. It's also a good idea to make your engine bay a little easier to work in. Check the wiki for vacuum reduction. If poss. where you live, consider egr delete. Be able to pressure test and datalog. Hope all that helps.

[kywhitelightning]

Originally Posted by stans3000gt

Dont want to hijack the thread but this is kind of on topic I just purchased the Mitsu OEM spark plug wires, and I also purchased the PLatinum spark plugs. Should those come pre-gapped and is the gap at .034??? What is the correct way to change the gap on the platinums. Reason why I am asking I will be dropping those in and after I am done doing all the maintanace I will be buying a MBC or EBC and I will be running it at 14psi as my DD.

1st gen cars have a little more leaniency when it comes to emisions control because it falls under OBD 1 standards. The plugs should be pregapped but that is no reason to trust that it is right. As I stated earlier the service manual recomends the plugs be gapped at between .039"-.043". I have set mine at .038" and have no problems with spark plug blowout or a CEL running between 14 and 15 lbs of boost. Use a wire guage to check the gap.

Be careful with platinum spark plugs because you paid the extra money for the platinum on the tip of the electrode. The difference between a platinum plug and a copper plug is lifespan. If you chip the platinum plating off of the electrode you are left with a really expensive copper plug. Copper plugs have a lifespan of 20000 miles where platinum plugs have a lifespan of 60000-100000 miles.

Hope this helps

Jeff

[kywhitelightning]

Originally Posted by e46m3

These HP figures you are giving are they at they fly wheel, or at the wheels?

Thanks

Edit- I guess Fly but wanan be sure

These aren't my figures, I found them online but they are a decent reference for a build plan as to what is needed first. I guess I should have linked them both rather than post the write up. (Note to self)