HELP! Is this a good idea?

[VR3.9]

Originally Posted by 93-3000gt-vr4-tfc

I think the caps/surface mount caps control the injector pulses. I get a code from the computer saying injector issue, but everything (injectors hot & cold ohm test, resistor box), wiring tests right.

I bought the whole block rebuild kit with 50 over pistons and rings.
I was thinking while the powertrain was out I would bore and build the block.
Planning on boring the lower intake also.
When I get some more money I'll throw it at the heads with 3mm lash adjusters and some good springs and retainers.
Am I on the right track here?
What's wrong with the ebay headers?
This is my clutch kit: F1 Racing Stage 2 Clutch Kit Chromoly Flywheel 3000gt VR4 Stealth R T Twin Turbo | eBay
Header/downpipes I was considering: Racing Turbo Manifold Header Downpipe Exhaust 91 99 Mit 3000gt VR 4 GTO Stealth | eBay
Springs and retainers BC Brian Crower Valvesprings TI Retainers 3000gt 6G72TT | eBay
Lash adjusters: 3rd Gen Big Bore Hydraulic Lifters Lash Adjusters 3000gt VR4 SL DOHC Set of 24 | eBay
The clutch disc I burnt, it again seemed pretty decent.
XTR Racing Stage 2 Clutch Disc 91 99 3000gt VR 4 Stealth R T Twin Turbo AWD 3 0L | eBay
Sorry for the link flood, trying to share my upgrade path for your kind intelligent advise.
I'm trying to keep the factory muffler system, as my active exhaust/dump still work well.

contact rymer21280 for your ECU needs.
http://www.3si.org/forum/f14/ecu-repair-service-522011/


Stock exhaust is fine if you're not looking for big hp. Let me give it to you straight and simple.

< 400awhp cheap simple and easy. you don't need anything but stock heads.

You buy a clutch based on your hp/torque goals. Since you haven't stated them I don't know. But if your not going with bigger turbo's bigger injectors or bigger fuel pump. Absolute best case scenario will be 350awhp.

If you tell me how much horse power you want it would be much easier to determine the best combination of parts.

I don't think you should buy anything on any of those links. Modding these cars have been done 1000's of times. Don't buy anything that hasn't been proven over and over.

[beasting]

to the OP,

bud you have alot of reading to do and alot more to learn...

these cars can be amazing fast but you need the right combo of parts, budget building is ok but it takes time and usually when your setup is complete you'll basically will have to replace worn out parts, do the 60K maintenance..

what im saying is do it right the first time dont cut corners or it'll come back and bite ya.

Look at my mods list i barely hit 298 awhp on stock 9b's pushing them farther then there limits, with such little mods, but with a decent tune and water and meth to help...

[Rom3BreaK]

My advice: in general, don't buy anything on ebay that you can't find success stories for on here using search. M2 Exhaust is an exception as it's been proven here and would turn up in such a search. Use websites like IPS Motorsports and Maximal Performance/other supporting vendors to find car specific parts - that way you know you're getting quality. 9 times out of 10 you're better off throwing money in the trash than buying parts only found on ebay. I like using google advanced search rather than the forum search - I find it produces better results.

I don't see it possible that your car is putting out 300 AWHP, I would be surprised if mine was.

Same thing for a clutch, look on a supporting vendors site for a good one near stock power needs if you don't plan on modding much more than you have. Don't underestimate the OEM equipment.

Ebay headers are generally crap. You're better off if you just check your front one for any cracks around the mid section as this is common, and fixing that.

Also, I haven't even heard of most of the brands of "mods" you're listing - that's a really bad sign. And I don't hear of anyone here running Lucas Oil anything - It may be good enough but again when searching for proper fluids I've never seen anybody suggest the stuff.

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

I would like to get as much power out as I can with out causing DD issues or ultrabroke.
For example I don't want to remove power steering, or get my DD down to 5MPG.
Other than that, the sky is the limit, I mean I don't want to twist input/output shafts or create power that will destroy the car or parts of it if I can help it.
Eventual goals, I'd like to nearly peak the clutch, over 1000 engine HP.
Supporting mods of course, EMS computer tuned, injectors fuel pump, etc.
Big power will take me some time for sure, it's not cheap.

As for soon, I'd just like to get where I can keep up with or beat the two cars I lost to.
I think they were pushing 600-700+HP, I guess that's a kinda lofty goal as well...

More power to the wheels would be nice, I don't know how to lessen drive train loss.
I was thinking eventually a carbon drive shaft to help eliminate rotating weight, rims?
I know those don't help develop power but I think they would help with accel.

Bugatti (sp?) accel of 0-60 in 2.5 is another goal of mine eventually.
I live in an area where to leave the gas station you have to hit a fast 0-60+ or wait...
There's several super high end cars running around, but this car already dominates 99%.

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

rymer21280 wouldn't answer my questions really about the ECU.
I did find a post that he said the values of the surface mounts.
I have a friend that can do surface mounts, I was going to buy the parts from rymer.
I think his problem with me was that I asked too many questions and only needed $1 in parts and not a full rebuild he could make more money off of. I guess I don't blame him, I wish I had more money I bet he does really know his stuff from what I've read on here.

[VR3.9]

I'm going to attempt to offer wisdom one more time. But if is see you type 1000awhp or even 600awhp..... I'm done. You might as well be telling us you'd like fly with your goal being to get to the moon.

Your new goal:
I want to have a nice driver that I can depend on that puts out around 340awhp.

This is doable and been done umpteen gazillian times. As been said read this forum. Then ask specific questions.

By the way if you think your car is fast now you have no idea what 340awhp feels like. Just so you know I'm building another car and the one in my sig is going back to a lot closer to stock with maybe 380awhp. Why? cause I drive it every day and everything is a trade off. I don't want to spend 600-700 bucks on a clutch every two years... for one thing. But there are many others. The other car may be in the 6-700awhp range though

[dannyperedes1]

Listen to what the people have said to you in this thread. Stop buying parts. Do the maintanence first and then buy a datalogger. Learn about your car and then after you understand it, begin to start modding it.

Also rymer21280 is a really good guy and has helped alot of us out so i would calm down with the smack talk.

[dbest671]

Originally Posted by 93-3000gt-vr4-tfc

rymer21280 wouldn't answer my questions really about the ECU.
I did find a post that he said the values of the surface mounts.
I have a friend that can do surface mounts, I was going to buy the parts from rymer.
I think his problem with me was that I asked too many questions and only needed $1 in parts and not a full rebuild he could make more money off of. I guess I don't blame him, I wish I had more money I bet he does really know his stuff from what I've read on here.

Um yeah Rymer (Eric) knows his shit... If he didn't answer your questions, I'm sure there is a reason (other than he doesn't know ).

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

I'm sorry I realize how dumb I sound asking semi-ricer boy questions.
Thanks for pointing me in the grounded & right direction, it's appreciated.

I do understand that as smart as I am, there is lots more to learn.
Sorry for being frustratingly half in a video game world on you guys.

I love your my new realistic goal of 340awhp, so more accurate est is 280 or so now?

Lucas oil is in my transmission, engine, and transfer case. I love it because it stays.
Another reason I love lucas, my TC has run near dry or dry a couple times, lucas saved.
Also, since putting in lucas into several engines, I have not had any more engine failures.
I do agree that it is probably not the ideal fluid to be running, it is semi-thick cold esp.

I wouldn't really use ebay but they got me with billmelater.
I figured I was chancing it with the ebay parts. I usually get pretty good luck with parts I find, some of them are junk. It's hit and miss, but mostly I'm winning.
My plug wires OML, never heard of them either, 10MM wires, they've held up very well.
Pulstar IR plugs seem to be the only plug maker to actually improve on the technology.
Accel is a common brand, knock off K&N, it's a drop in box, looks more street legal.

Mounts are a great story:
My mounts were from a seller on ebay, solid poly all 4, cheaper than oem, stronger.
They have no brand, but the seller was nice enough to rush my order ahead of 7 others, custom pour what I wanted that day, 2nd day ship it for no cost over 5-7day.
As if all that wern't great enough, when I sent my old mounts in for a core refund I got a big suprise. I didn't get the $80 core refund, they sent me the full $350 I think it was back. I about had a heart attack and asked if they meant to do that b/c if not I would return the other than core money. I got an email back: Enjoy your mounts & core refund! Such great people, great mounts, buy, well worth what they were asking.

What I have found is that a lot of the smaller companies most haven't heard of are making great products trying to build their name. I know several large companies that produce such volume that by penny pinching quality degrades.

This car needs a more talented driver than I was when I first got it.
We've been working with each other though, I'm learning for sure.

I just want a VR4 that if I bring it so a VR4 meet at some point won't get laughed at.
A well maintained, respectable, realiable, decent mileage with your foot out of it DD.
I won't be at the front of the pack, but I won't be last either!
I'd really love to see your cars, have you guys see mine, and get more ideas.

I, like an idiot, mangled my ABS, 150-50 too fast messed something up.
Couple of dumb questions sorry:

using diagnostic connector what is the ABS computer pin?
Thinking I may have weirded out a wheel speed sensor, G sensor tested good.
If somone could drop me a link to ABS diagnostics pin/codes that'd b great, I found it once, searched and searched and for some reason can't find again.

I think I finally got my suspension 'ghosts' fixed, the ECS has been strange, off and on.
I read up on it and I'm going to check the strut cap.
ECS was blinking non stop saying no problems after caps were changed in it.
Suspension still failed to stay in tour mode defaulting to sport.
One day it failed, I left the car running sport light lit when I had it in tour.
Quickly checked the diagnostic connector and it said front left problem.
The wiring on top driver's strut correct? I know my ECS computer is good, it's rebuilt.
Externally it looks ok, removed the connector it's clean, cleaned connections anyway.
Do the caps just pop off with a flat screwdriver?
Will the problem be obvious?

Very sorry I'm such a huge moron and so long winded, I'm actually trying to listen and learn more than speak.

[dbest671]

I believe only a MUT can turn off the ABS light (this would require a dealership most likely)...

And have you thought about replacing your struts, sounds like the strut are gone if you had the computer rebuilt.