First 3000gt vr-4!!! Replacing things

[StephanKenneavy]

Hey guys just bought my first 3000gt vr-4. It's a 1993. It's mostly stock exept a turbo rs bov and an after market boost gauge. The engine just had the 120k done and the engine rebuilt and the turbos redone. Now after taking a look under the hood some of the old piping is on its way out such as the rubber hose off of the Y pipe where can I get this? What's a good brand? I want to make the engine bay look nice and shiny. Any ideas? I'm looking to mainly maintain the vehicle untill i get back from the marine corps. I'm just looking for things I should replace that I can make look good thanks for checking out my post if u need any other info just tell me!

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

Congrats! I own a 93 as well!
Sounds like yours was maintained a lot better prior to your ownership.
Mine was sadly quite neglected.

-Check out your ECU, make sure caps aren't blown.-
-Watch your TC fluid levels, most all of them leak-
-These cars seem to eat clutches, you've been warned!-

There are lots of dress items available. A lot of people on here use 3sx for such items.
Check out this link to detailing parts on 3sx, might have what you want.
Detailing & Accessories*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts
Check out my pics of my engine bay to give you an idea for a decent paint scheme.

Hope this helps, have a great day and I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine!

[StephanKenneavy]

Yes I love 3sx it's got everything but what do u recommend I put on the car as far as tubes and new pipes? New y pipe? And do I have to remove the engine to put the intake to turbo pipes on?

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

I've kept all my factory piping so far, the only issues I've had with it are the rubber seals.
I can't blame that on anything but age and high heat racing duty.
My rubber seals y to throttly body and on the front turbo are about shot.

You do no need to remove the engine to change any of the turbo piping I don't think.
There are several articles on here about others doing the same thing with piping.

There are several things that will get in the way to remove, but whole engine, for turbo piping, pretty sure no.
The rubber hoses that come off of the y pipe actually go to your side mount intercoolers.
The two hoses going into the y are charged with 1/2 boost at peak.

Air in, in&out the turbos, in&out the intercoolers, boost to the throttle body.
My pipes at the Y are showing signs of pressure, but have still not failed at 165k.

Silicone hoses seem to be popular, but oil and fuel quickly degrade them I've read.

Again, double check your ECU codes, caps, much more important than pipes/looks.

Sorry I can't be more helpful without owning or trying the parts your're asking about.

Hope I helped some, have a great day!

[StephanKenneavy]

ok well i also have another big problem the car when started cold idles around 2k rpm. once it gets warmed up it idles a little less than 1k probably around 800ish. once the car is warm for a wile after a high rev the rmp's drop and the car dies. any ideas? the iac was already replaced? help!

[NickS VR4]

Could be a couple things, just gonna throw two out there. To start off, nothing wrong with your car idling at 2000rpm when cold, then dropping down to 800-1000rpm. That is about normal range, if not slightly high.

As for the stalling, you can try to raise your base idle. Second, it may be due to an open atmosphere BOV. When your engine registers all that air coming in and you let off the gas, the stock BOV keeps that air in the system, and if yours is an Open Atmosphere setup, it lets it go, so momentarily your engine will run rich as the RPMs drop, potentially causing the stall.

I'll let the other gurus chime in, cause it may not be that, and they can point you in a better direction.

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

Some smart person mentioned a dash pot in another thread.
Dash pot keeps throttle from slamming closed from full open.
I have the same issue, I have an apexi bov vents to atmosphere+lw flywheel.
The combo creates stalls, occ in bad situations...

[93-3000gt-vr4-tfc]

Again, check your ECU, open it, inspect for blown caps.
That was a big part of my problem at first.

[westcott]

You really need to build a pressure tester and check for air\vacuum leaks first. I would redo all the piping and couplings just for piece of mind on a car with that many original parts. A great tip is to use hair spray on the hoses before sliding them back on. Let dry for 24 hours. Does a great job of sealing leaks and preventing hoses from popping off or causing leaks at higher boost. Don't doddle, hair spray sets up pretty quick.

Then check your timing. Set idle at normal operating temperature. Check your fuel regulator for leaks, etc.