Just follow the standard 60k service. Cam locks are a HUGE help, as well as some clips to hold the belt in place. Just make sure when your bolting your cam caps back down to torque to spec and in sequence.
My username was aorozco2 (Abraham Orozco) but just decided to change it to just Abraham.
And what I wanted to run by someone else is if I have the belt around the crank and decide to bolt down the exhaust cam on the rear bank and put the belt on it and put a clip to hold it and the bolt doen the intake cam on the rear bank and put another clip in place to hold it and do the same with the other back and at the end pull thepin on the tensioner to take some of the extra slack. Would it work?
Then how it would be the easiest way to do it keeping in mind that I don't have the cam lockers.
And can some one point me in the right direction as far as setting the tension goes.
3sx sells the cam lockers....they are worth there weight in gold...i have a set ...have not used them...but i have lent them out..and my buddies around me with 3/s cars...could not be more then thank full....i would deft invest in a set...they will save you many headachs down the road
Like the snake the BITE must be felt and not seen,
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T- SOLD
1995 3000GT SL-SOLD
1991 Eclipse GS-SOlD
1995 Eclipse GS-T - SOLD
1994 Eclipse GSX-SOLD
1994 Dodge Stealth R/T TT- SOLD
1969 Corvette 427/435- SOLD
2003 Corvette Z06 S/C- pride and joy
2002 Camaro Z/28
2008 Corvette Z06- the new family member!!!
3sx sells the cam lockers....they are worth there weight in gold
Not when you can make them out of 3 dollars worth of Quicksteel and some plastic bags.
Abraham, now that you've removed the timing belt, you need to follow the procedure specified in the manual for reinstalling it and setting proper tension. There' really aren't any major shortucts you can take, nor would you want to with valve timing.
Further, for future reference, you do not need to remove the cams to replace lifters. You simply need a screwdriver to pop the rocker arms out, and then a screwdriver and some manliness to pop the rockers back in.
1995 3000GT VR-4 but real niggaz don't give a fuck: V1, comprehensive denastificizzle, vishizzous accessory biznelt mod, K&N, Greddy Profec B S-P-to-tha-izzec II, S-AFC, Walbro 341, DSM 450s, n AEM UEGO; battery relocizzle K-R-to-tha-izzank Vents, EK2MFG fizzle rizzle loop n plenum spaca, lethal_vr4 manual gang bangin' rizzay, SKVR4 AWS delete, polyurethane motor mounts, adjustable control arms, SS brakes lines, n EGR blockoffs; Custom brakes lines wit cockpit-mounted adjustable proportion'n valve, 332mm Stoptechs, Carbotech Brotha Plus/Porterfield Rizzle ATE Pusha Blue, OZ Gang Bangin' F1 Plus 17x9.5 +36mm, Yokohama AVS ES100 275/40/17, Tein Fizzle w/EDFC n SCE Casta/Camba Plates, SCE oilpan, DSM sidemounts, DN Precat Eliminizzles 13G/9B combo (9psi springs), J-spec final drive, RPS flyhweel n Spec II clutch, IPO propane, ATR downpipe, tizzest pipe, n Single Shot
1987 BMW e30 325is: Bilsteins/H&R, VERY solid motor mounts, pointless bullshit deleted
1994 Mazda Protege DX (retired): 296K miles, DOHC 1.8L swap, rear disc brake conversion, poorly-designed header, some cheap-ass suspension upgrades, Carbotech XP8/AX6, 15x7 +30 Kazera KZ-M w/ Avon Tech Ra slicks, other crap here and there (like an air filter that doesn't have 1/4 of a million miles), arguably the fastest piece of shit in New England and no one can do anything about it
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