I'm going to be doing this sometime this week and I'm trying to get as much info as I can beforehand. Question: is it absolutely necessary to remove the cams? I'm thinking that it would be a lot easier if I didn't have to mess with the timing belt & stuff. What else should I think about replacing? Cam seals? I just hit 111,000 miles so I'll do the timing belt next year.
I'd go ahead and change the timing belt now just in case. Especially since you are going so deep into your engine to replace the valve seals.
If it wouldn't be too much trouble, any chance you can take a few pictures as you go to let the rest of us know what is involved. I need mine replaced also, and dealership quoted 1100, seems like a lot for valve seals.
I just had my 120k svc done at 104k, also the timing belt. No more high rpm miss. Now I need to do valve seals to correct mild smoking at idle.
valve seals are a pita. you have to remove the timing belt (and cams) to do them, no way around it as far as i'm aware. in order to remove them without taking out the valves themselves, you have to have a special tool, hans went through this a bunch of months back, he bought an inexpensive valve seal puller at first and then went back out and bought a quality one. it took omar about 12 hours to do his valve seals, you are basically doing a timing belt job at the same time. hope this helps, safe travels.
Warlock: Good idea. I'll see if I can get a friend's digi-camera and get some good pics. To my knowledge, none of the 3S garage sites offer any help with the cylinder heads. I'm going to use this time to poke around inside and start planning for port/polish/3 angle valve job/97+ lifters etc. I REALLY don't have the $$ for all that right now, which is why I'm thinking about waiting on the timing belt until, say, next year when I'll have more dough. (or sooner if the market turns up...) BTW why were you missing at high RPM's?
the cam seals will not hurt but prob are not necessary. they are easy to do tho.
in terms of changing valves seals, i know that gzp (see my sig) do valve seals, hans is also talking to a fellow about planing, porting and polishing heads. however, you would either have to drive there or pull your heads off and send em to him. you know, you might be able to go to autozone and rent a valve seal puller; i don't know for sure but that just occured to me, might be worth looking into.
yep, that 12 hours was from the time he started putting his car up to when he dropped her back down. you have to do the timing belt job so that takes a good chunk of time right there and it takes at least 10 min per valve to do the seals, 24 valves = 4 hours, mebbe longer, and that's with a good valve seal puller. my how time does fly, eh?
I think it was plugs, since they didn't replace my wires during the service. Mine would pull fine at slow to medium throttle all the way past 130, but if you mashed it from a stop, it would buck and stumble about 5k rpm, really threw off timing on shifts when that happens. Either that or the timing belt was slipping, but after the service the car blasts all the way to 7k with no hesitation.
Think I beat a black 1st gen with washer lights last night, he thought he could stick with me, he was behind me as we turned left and he tried to stay with me after the turn, easily put 3 car lengths on him. Could have been a turbo, but can't say for sure. I turned into gas station he turned in opposite direction.
Fun having power and not afraid to play with it again, now if only it didn't smoke at idle at stop light. Seems to smoke more since the service, I wonder if they put synthetic oil back in, prob not.
91 Stealth TT 1994-2016 rest in one piece
1969 charger R/T SE 440 Magnum, torqueflight auto, 95% stock/original, restored. 2010 Challenger R/T 5.7 auto, Kenne Bell 2.8L supercharger, 500rwhp. modded.
The tool to compress the valve springs with the heads still on the engine is a little over $200 by itself. It takes about 45 minutes per cylinder to change out the valve seals and about 4-5 hours to do the timing belt. You are looking into around 10 hours at a minimum if you've never done it before. The trick to doing it with the heads still on the engine is to put that cylinder's piston at the top of it's stroke. Now, when you compress the valve spring, the valve will hit the piston and keep the valve from falling into the cylinder . You can also used compressed air inside the cylinder to keep the valve up, but I find it easier (less crap in my way) by just putting the piston at the top of the compression stroke. Changing the seals also requires a valve seal installer tool to make sure the seal is seated all the way down on the valve guide. Make sure you don't lose the valve spring retainers. They are very small and very easy to drop somewhere you don't want them to fall .
I will be offering to change valve seals (if you send me the heads) for $250 including the cost of the valve seals. Camshaft seals would be another $25 including the cost of the seals.
sounds like someone just got richer...i.e. someone else is gonna have to do this, too many things to go wrong. Shit. car is smoking even more now, I think the dealer put regular oil in. Mine has always run with synthetics. May have to drain it and refill with good stuff.
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