We can rebuild 1st and second gear in the transmission. (Remove grind, ensure long term reliability)
Bore out the block for new pistons, rings, piston pins, crank bearings, main bearings.
Check/grind true crankshaft and rods.
Balance the rotating assembly: Crankshaft, pistons, pins, rods, harmonic balancer.
Rebuild the whole block with listed parts + oil pump+60k service: Water pump, timing belt, 2 tensioners.
FULL block-low end of engine ALL NEW
Drive shaft carrier bearings will remove clunk sounds/future problems from ignoring it.
Transfer Case seal and bearing rebuild kit will stop impending failure of TC.
Am I on the right track here?
Thanks for your helpful and kind input!
1. TC - get a brace from Maximal or someone.
2. Clutch - good
3. syncro's usually just need the friction ring $85 each for 1st and 2nd. Those 2 are easy to change. 3rd not so much
I always have concerns when someone puts VR4 and machine shop in the same sentence. Close is just not close enough with these cars. What's good on Chevy small block isn't on a 6g72. I got a fresh rebuilt short block with a project car I bought. I had to have it rebuilt be the only machine shop we in N. Texas trust with these cars.
What kind of pistons did you get? Also use only OEM head gaskets.
oh and new oil pumps aren't cheap.
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Most powerful 13T car on the planet @501awhp, PTE 780CC injectors, AFPR, E85, Greddy Profec B, 3.5" Granatelli MAF, MAFT, Apexi ITC, SS Headers and O2 housings, 3SX downpipe, CRX racing FMIC, Dejon intake pipes, Ground Controls, Maximal adjustable rear control arms, Maximal TC Brace, Poly front and rear mounts, Vacuum Reduction, EGR block off plate, Hot Wired Walbro 255 and inline Walbro 255, Southbend stage 3 clutch, Slotted and vented rotors, SAFCII, Turbo XS BOV, 3SX FP hotwire, Seatle Short Shifter, Jackhammer timing gears: Best 1/4 mile 12.33 at 114.9 mph 1.79 60ft.
I was looking at needed/wanted 3sx TC braces but didn't think it was in the budget.
If I don't need $800 in syncros only $200 or less that will make room!
Going with OEM clutch kit, seeing as I DD it a lot more than race.
Pistons? Came with kit, .30 mm decked. Unbranded #s read: PA55014T .50
Gaskets are by Evergreen, not heard of them, but they look like pretty decent quality.
Planning on changing head gaskets again when rebuilding top of engine a little later.
Will buy an OEM head gasket for that job for sure.
Buying a cheap new oil pump for now, will get OEM later when funds are available.
I try really hard to avoid cheaping out best I can but also get as much as I can done.
IK I will be going back to replace head gaskets/oil pump and a few others.
So for now get only the syncro friction rings for 1 & 2?
Poured a concrete pad in my mechanic's new driveway last night, starting repairs soon.
I've only considered machine shops that work on race engines, I want a tight build.
Never rebuilt an engine before, never had one worthy until now.
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Block: .50 over laser cut. Heads: BC valve springs, 3mm lifters, seals, etc. Clutch: Carbonetic Triple Plate. Transfer Case: Seal kit & Stage 2 MP TC brace. Transmission: New 1st syncro friction ring, New 2nd gear, friction ring, syncro kit & bearings. Brakes: 94+ rear calipers, 4 cross drilled & slotted rotors all new pads. Ignition/Air: Pulstar IR plugs, 10MM OML wires, free boost mod, drop in race filter. Exhaust: Gutted pre-cats, 3" pipe/no main cat, factory rear active system.
Buying a cheap new oil pump for now, will get OEM later when funds are available.
Have fun on your NEXT rebuild LOL. You were talking about exhaust and stuff in another thread, and now you are going to go cheap on an oil pump? Seriously?
Ok, you guys are right on about the oil pump.
I agree I don't want to leave an expensive rebuild with a cheap oil pump.
Not even for a bit if I can help it.
I'll see if I can take back my non-OEM oil pump to get OEM.
there AREEEEEEE quality alternatives to OEM parts for some things, pistons, bearings, sparkwlugs/wires ect ect but in this case man, they're right
the 6g72 really demands 2 things specifically as OEM components only for a rebuild
OEM headstuds/mls revised headgasket
OEM oil pump
on everything else, people have had varying degree's of success/failure/indifference between oem and the aftermarket
- the next Q before you go all pump crazy is- do you absolutely KNOOOWWWWWWww your pump is bad/worn out? have you considered rebuilding it with billet gears- ie superior to the OEM pump?
just some things to mull over before you jump on any more parts.
when putting this car together, consider what you intentions may turn into later, if you were thinking theres ANY inkling at all you'd like to upgrade to a more peppy setup, such as 13g's/13t's, NOW would be the time to lay the groundwork for a reliable 400-450awhp pumpgas daily driver.. IE things like stronger than oem replacement clutch and bracing should be things considered for example. Save the money and labor down the road and take care of it now if you have any interest in making this car any faster......otherwise carry on, if you just want it rebuilt stock as stock can be
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Single Hx52 billet 67mm 1300 cfm goodness, Delphi 1250's, twin walbro 400's, dual pump/dual feed braided lines from tank to rails,Tial 50mm BOV, Tial 60mm wg, Spec 4+ with hub welded and balanced, Rays Bellhousing brace, flash ECU with openport 2.0 tune, MSD coils, MSD race ignition wires, Odyssey PC680, CX racing fmic 1000hp core 28x12x4, ABS delete, EGR delete, AC delete, cruise delete, pansy patrol pulley reduction, Vac reduction
About to place an order on 3sx.
Per advise contents are as follows:
TransferCaseSealKit - Transfer Case Seal Repair Kit AWD 3000GT/Stealth - $79.95
TCaseBracketMP-5spd2 - MP Transfer Case Bracket Brace 5-speed STAGE 2 CAGE - $159.95
TranAWDSynch-5sp-1CFR - Tranny AWD Synchro Ring 5sp - 1st Gear CENTER FRICTION ONLY - $84.95
TranAWDSynch-5sp-2CFR - Tranny AWD Synchro Ring 5sp - 2nd Gear CENTER FRICTION ONLY - $84.95
Super happy about this! Will fix a lot of issues at once.
I may not take on the engine rebuild yet, the transmission is worse off at the moment.
there AREEEEEEE quality alternatives to OEM parts for some things, pistons, bearings, sparkwlugs/wires ect ect but in this case man, they're right
the 6g72 really demands 2 things specifically as OEM components only for a rebuild
OEM headstuds/mls revised headgasket
OEM oil pump
on everything else, people have had varying degree's of success/failure/indifference between oem and the aftermarket
- the next Q before you go all pump crazy is- do you absolutely KNOOOWWWWWWww your pump is bad/worn out? have you considered rebuilding it with billet gears- ie superior to the OEM pump?
just some things to mull over before you jump on any more parts.
when putting this car together, consider what you intentions may turn into later, if you were thinking theres ANY inkling at all you'd like to upgrade to a more peppy setup, such as 13g's/13t's, NOW would be the time to lay the groundwork for a reliable 400-450awhp pumpgas daily driver.. IE things like stronger than oem replacement clutch and bracing should be things considered for example. Save the money and labor down the road and take care of it now if you have any interest in making this car any faster......otherwise carry on, if you just want it rebuilt stock as stock can be
Thanks for the kind insightful reply.
My stock pump has 165k on it & it still has good pressure.
Can you please link me to better than OEM oil pump rebuild parts?
I'm buying the TC stage 2 brace kit and some stronger carrier bearings.
My goal is a reliable DD/mostly factory + peppy touring car.
But I agree with you about laying a foundation to build on.
Clutch I'm going with OEM for now as I do a lot more DD than racing.
Eventually I'm going to get the crazy triple plate clutch.
I'm going to take care of more important things first.
Also, want to get the hardened O/S before crazy strong clutch.
I don't want to twist or break anything, but I do want a strong DD.
ebay and quality usually cant exist at the same time. Some lifetime warranty products arent worth their warranty when they fail repeatedly or the company disappears.
As pointed out there are quality alternatives to some OEM parts, but be careful which ones you choose.
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