i recently bought a 92 3000gt SL with 187 miles just as a throw around car.
I bought the car for 1800, the guy said it randomly cut off.(haven't had that issue yet)
As i was driving it home, the car had nothing but missfires.
heres what the guy has replaced on the car and what the ad says:
I put it on a scanner it comes up with no codes. Since the problem started I've installed new SPARK PLUGS , new FUEL FILTER , new MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR , new DISTRIBUTOR and STARTER
so im thinking: ECU/ECM, IAC sensor, Coil pack, or a possible short?
i've taken the ECU/ECM out today and the capacitor is leaking, i am rebuilding the ECU/ECM soon but i doubt that will fix the misfire issues.
should i go ahead and replace the coil packs, IAC sensor?
i know on issues like this there are all kinds of things that can cause that but any info can help.
the guy also said someone texted him and said there car randomly cut off because of a loose fuse under a engine cover somewhere, doubt that is doing anything but any info is something.
Hello, welcome, and congratulations on the new car!
First, you need to figure which cylinder it is coming from and why. Test for spark and fuel. Start the car and very carefully take the spark plug wires off the coil pack and see if the misfire becomes worse or doesn't change. You can also get it close to the inside of the coil pack post and see if it is arcing to the wire. That will test for spark.
If you have spark, then pull the front injector harness one plug at a time. That will tell you what injector isn't firing. Maybe someone else can chime in with the best way to test for fuel on the rear bank, but coincidentally, I've always had the plenum off because I am working on other things when I have this problem, so I just pull the spark plug. If it is getting fuel it will shoot out of the cylinder head port for the spark plug. With the plenum off, the car won't really run, but more just try to start. That is more than enough time to see if it is getting fuel. Just be careful not to drop anything down the intake, and watch for squirting fuel.
Edit: A great investment would be a datalogger. You can monitor anything and everything your car is doing, pull check engine light (CEL) codes, and even disable injectors one by one. All in real time and right from the driver's seat.
Modifications as of 3/21/13:
3.1L, 0.050" oversized pistons, forged crank, 3SX lightweight crank pulley, K&N intake, CX Racing pre turbo pipes. SS Y-pipe, SS oil feed/return lines, DNP precat deletes, test pipe, ESP downpipe, DSM SMICs, Ninja Performance boost controller set to 13 psi, vacuum reduction, 6 puck clutch, Drweldin custom spark plug cover, Depo Racing gauges, custom leather seats, and MMCdroid OBDI-Bluetooth datalogging adapter. Everything built and done by me. More to come soon.
Currently building/on the shelf:
3.01L, 0.020" oversized pistons, forged crank, NA block, 13T turbos, KYB GR-2 struts, Tein S-Tech lowering springs.
Hello, welcome, and congratulations on the new car!
First, you need to figure which cylinder it is coming from and why. Test for spark and fuel. Start the car and very carefully take the spark plug wires off the coil pack and see if the misfire becomes worse or doesn't change. You can also get it close to the inside of the coil pack post and see if it is arcing to the wire. That will test for spark.
If you have spark, then pull the front injector harness one plug at a time. That will tell you what injector isn't firing. Maybe someone else can chime in with the best way to test for fuel on the rear bank, but coincidentally, I've always had the plenum off because I am working on other things when I have this problem, so I just pull the spark plug. If it is getting fuel it will shoot out of the cylinder head port for the spark plug. With the plenum off, the car won't really run, but more just try to start. That is more than enough time to see if it is getting fuel. Just be careful not to drop anything down the intake, and watch for squirting fuel.
Edit: A great investment would be a datalogger. You can monitor anything and everything your car is doing, pull check engine light (CEL) codes, and even disable injectors one by one. All in real time and right from the driver's seat.
what would be a decent priced good quality dataloger cost and where from? i also read how to test the coil pack and wires to see if they work with a multimeter instead so i wouldnt need a man at the ignition and one under the hood but you think the other way would work best?
EDIT: i also found this since the 92 is OBD1: http://mefiburn.com/sc/toplevel.asp?cat=2......thx
anyone know if that is a god link for the car and then i can get the software for my laptop, im just wondering if that cable will work, im not to worried about the software.
im thinking they're 12 pin cable wont work, but maybe this will?
Do you have an Android device? One of the members on here makes OBDI-Bluetooth adapters so you can datalog wirelessly with an app called MMCDroid. I have one and a Palm m105 with an adapter cable. You can use the cable in the link you posted and use something like evoscan.
Do you have an Android device? One of the members on here makes OBDI-Bluetooth adapters so you can datalog wirelessly with an app called MMCDroid. I have one and a Palm m105 with an adapter cable. You can use the cable in the link you posted and use something like evoscan.
....no stuck with this iphone :\ but its ok i dont mind having my laptop in the car with me, it would probly be better if i used my laptop im just more farmiliar with it.
im reading this post on DSM about making your own link cable to USB and ill use TunerPro RT, i think in total ill pay like 30 bucks to make the cable
If there are problems with your ECU, I would send it to Eric Rymer, here on the forums. He has a great reputation and knows these cars inside and out. Dealing with anyone that is not a 3S specialist is risky, at best.
I would not do anything until you get your ECU fixed. You are just wasting time if it is indeed malfunctioning.
You may slap it in and be on your way with no further issues.
Keep us posted after you get your ECU back and installed.
I would go with a tried and true solution for your car, especially with limited solutions for OBD1.
There are more expensive solutions out there but for an NA engine, this will provide everything you will need. And, it is well supported on this forum by members with lots of experience.
__________________
Ride of the Month-March 2013, Original Owner, My Garage
If there are problems with your ECU, I would send it to Eric Rymer, here on the forums. He has a great reputation and knows these cars inside and out. Dealing with anyone that is not a 3S specialist is risky, at best.
I would not do anything until you get your ECU fixed. You are just wasting time if it is indeed malfunctioning.
You may slap it in and be on your way with no further issues.
Keep us posted after you get your ECU back and installed.
NVM, whats his username?
EDIT: i might actually go with that as well, the program with cables and all is cheap i didnt notice that on 3sx
Then have him take a look at it. That cap could very well be the issue. It will cost less than $15 (by far) for replacement caps. The electronics in these cars are funky. Even the ECS module is known to create problems with the engine. If the cap is the problem, any parts you throw at it will be way more expensive and you will get more and more frustrated.
Then have him take a look at it. That cap could very well be the issue. It will cost less than $15 (by far) for replacement caps. The electronics in these cars are funky. Even the ECS module is known to create problems with the engine. If the cap is the problem, any parts you throw at it will be way more expensive and you will get more and more frustrated.
EDIT: i might actually go with that as well, the program with cables and all is cheap i didnt notice that on 3sx
rymer21280
He is just now getting back on his feet so be a little patient as he tries to catch up. It will be well worth it to contact him. He is a wealth of knowledge and willing to help.
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92 3000gt missfire
