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#11 (permalink) |
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New User - Please be kind
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Don't forget about the output shaft,corroded brake/streering lines,17year old intercoolers....and,and,and.Seriosly,these cars are not a wise choise if you live on a budget.As a daily driver,unless you do a complete rebuilt,they are pretty much useless if you ask me.
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#12 (permalink) |
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soaking it up
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It's been sitting in the sun for sure. A good cleaner wax and a buffing machine can really shine the paint up. It basically takes off oxidation and a layer of paint with it which will show on the pad, then wax the H out of it with a good wax. Be careful not to buff one spot too long, or could "burn" it. If you were to get the car - something to try before repainting.
It's prob due for wheel and carrier bearings with that mileage - $900 in parts. But maybe they've been replaced? Good luck |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Whats up with the different wheel in the back? I doubt it would mess up the VCU since the rear end would make up for the difference but probably isn't good for it.
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![]() 1994 3000GT SL - Old Daily Driver Being Sold Once VR4 is in Action Go: 3SX Downpipe with Custom DP Back Exhaust, K&N Filter Show: 3SX Clear Corners, New Custom Paint 1993 VR4 with 150K miles - Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior/Sole Method of Transportation Hopefully on the road soon! Go: eBay Tanabe Concept G Blue Replica TBE, HKS SSQV, Wastegate Boost Monitoring/Maintenance: 120K with oil pump and main/rod bearings, MSD 8.5MM wires, NGK Platinum plugs, Palm M100 with MMCD, Redline/Castrol Fluids, New ECU, Lowes Pressure Tester Show: '99 Garnish, Alan's Snake Eyes, Stealthy Wiper Mod |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Looks like a fun project, but I'd only buy it if that's your intentions. It's not the up front price that's important with a VR4, it's the aftermath of owning it and getting it up to snuff!
P.S. That's not an HKS Super Dragger ehxaust ![]() P.S.S. If you keep TT's stockish and keep up with the maintenance, they ARE reliable.
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![]() //OPEN FILTER||EVO 9 BOV||GREDDY PROFEC B||CUSTOM DP NO CATS||TEINS||BILSTEINS\\ |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
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#16 (permalink) |
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One Sinister Motha Sucka!
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Where to begin...I bought mine with the guy telling me that it had a fresh rebuilt engine and tranny 30K miles ago. Well, I started out by replacing the interior. $650...The suspension was redone as all parts still have tags and stickers on them including the drive shaft. Next, was little things like oil cooler feed and return lines...$130. Heard a knock, took it in and the 5th gear bearings and spring destroyed all my gears...so bought new gears and syncros...$1500, replaced next the cam seals and all gaskets....$200 (labor too)...Then bought new turbos..$1100...then once all that was together there was another knock...this time from the bottom end. Rod bearings were worn to the brass...Not spun..more $$$!! New oem forged crank $730, new clevite bearings..$85, plus when I pulled the rods and pistons, rings were bad and cylinders had piston slap...bored out .030 over and bought new IPS Ross pistons...$640...new water pump...$120, new oil pump $160, new rear moutor mount, new valve stem seals, egr block off plate.................It never ends!!!! Plus Im doing the 98 conversion....OMFG!!!! PLus labor!!!! add that up plus $3000 in labor plus $6400 for the car, plus $800 for the system!!! plus about another $2000 for guages, a-pillar pod, datalogger and cables, Greddy profec b spec II EBC, 560 injectors, 255 walbro, $800 borla, $300 safcII, plus gt-pro FMIC...$2500............IM GONNA BE SICK...All in 5 months
ALMS FOR THE POOR!!!! MIke PS If I could do it all over, .........I would cause she's gonna be mean and beautiful!!
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91 Vr4, TDO4L 13T's, heads ported and polished, oil cooler, new vss, new valves, springs, rebuilt engine with 99 big bore lifters, Fel-pro head Bolts, IPS Ross (.030) Pistons and Rings, brand new forged mitsu oem crank, clevite bearings, all new gaskets and seals, new oem oil pump, new water pump, all new gears and synchros(1-5 and reverse) new oem motor mounts, Tein S Springs, 99 rear Garnish, Greddy Profec-B Spec II EBC, evo8 560cc injectors, Apexi SAFC-II, walbro 255 FP, 120k, hks SSQV, borla 3", downpipe, gt-pro FMIC, XTD stage 3 racing clutch, Brand new two tone custom interior, x2 Kicker Comp 12" subs, infinity Kappa 3 stage 6x9's, 98 conversion!
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#18 (permalink) | |
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GTCUL8R
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Quote:
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#19 (permalink) | ||
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pretty much a noob
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Quote:
He said HKS dragger, maybe there were two models? I'm not sure Quote:
I've got a truck as a daily that I'd keep along with that car. More of a fun summer/weekend car
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![]() 91 VR-4 Free boost mod, K+N fipk intake, chrome y-pipe, Turbo xs RFL bov, HKS exhaust with custom tips. Mods to come: 120k tune up with oil pump, data logger, boost controller |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Moderator
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You'll notice we're being kind and understanding, while warning you off as best we can, the cars are definitely fun to drive when in good shape, and look different enough that they still stand out on the street, the biggest concern is not to overinvest in the project, its real easy to get upside down considering most 1st gens are only worth 5-8k. I threw 20k into mine in about a 2 year period, knowing it wouldn't return it. At one point you'll just decide that's enough. It is a very good thing to have a different daily driver, so you can live through the down periods better.
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91 Stealth TT Stillen Intake, Stillen DP, DN Y Pipe, HKS EVC IV, GReddy BOV, Burlwood Dash kit, New Katzkins, OEM Short Block, RPS Max Street Clutch, Denso 310lph fuel pump, 13G Turbos, Borla exhaust, 550 DR Injectors, HKS SAFC, 2 gauge pod CF A/F gauge, autometer boost gauge. Custom vented blisters, New Valves, rebuilt heads, timing belt, new bearings and pistons. 35k invested.
Other cars: 1969 charger R/T SE, 04 SVT cobra |
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