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Old 10-25-2010, 03:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Halo Robo mod instruction w/pictures

Let me say thanks to bcarroll76, as this is part of his write-up that I expanded on.

The stuff you will need before taking apart the headlights:
• Pot holders that can be ruined
• Flat head screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Small paint scrapper
• Goo-B-Gone, Goof-off, or Krud Kutter—any of these will work
• Piece of card board to work on, so you don’t mess up anything.

Stuff you need to put the headlights back together:
• Goo-B-Gone, Goof-off, or Krud Kutter—any of these will work
• Latex gloves
• 3M Windo-Weld
• Caulk Gun for 3M windo-Weld


1. Pre-heat oven on 275 degrees(glass) or 235(lexan). I take off all mounting brackets prior to baking. Also you will want to take off the (8) little silver clips that go around the headlight. Just take a flat head screwdriver and they pop off from the bottom, just be careful because I fling them all over my kitchen. Also take out light bulbs.



2. Once the oven is pre-heated to 275(glass) or 235 (lexan), place headlight on rack and bake them for about 10-15 minutes. Make sure that the headlight is not touching any part of the oven except for the rack (obviously).



3. Once you pull the headlight out look at the corners, you want to find one where the glass or lexan has started to lift from the casing (usually where the level indicator is). Genteelly, put the paint scrapper in there and pull up. You are prying the glass off. You want to try and get it under the lip of the glass, NOT the rim of the glass. Lexan lenses don’t really matter because they are not prone to chipping. Once you got the glass up enough you can just pull it off. For lexan headlights, you don’t have to be as careful with prying.





4. This is the fun part, removing the factory glue. Keep the oven on. You will need the glue to be hot in order to remove it. Use a flat head screw driver and get the glue out of the channel. Some of the glue will stick to the glass, use “Goof Off” to get it off the glass. I suggest replacing the glue and NOT reusing it.

5. Clean off any glue that you may have gotten on the inside of the glass and put glass aside.

6. Removing the insert, remove the one black screw that is visible. The upper corner is held on with a peg, genteelly pull it up. The bottom is held on by two clips. You need to be careful if you are reusing the insert. You will want to grab where the openings are for the projection lights and pull towards you.



7. You will need to drill two small holes in the back of the bucket, so you can run the halo wires out. Make sure they are more towards the bottom of the bucket, so you can see the hole when you are trying to fish the wires through.
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Last edited by dbest671; 10-25-2010 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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8. I paint the inside of the headlight bucket (robo mod) with either high gloss or low gloss paint (the low gloss tends to looks better). You will need to remove the silver rings, leveler, and glass eyeballs. Just shove some paper towel where the openings are after you remove the eyeballs. (I am anal and tape them). Ignore the blue dog toy behind it....


9. I glue the halos to the silver retaining ring (on the robo mods). You will need 80mm glass CCFL tubes, or 80mm computer fan with a CCFL tube (illegal colors though). I recently bought some off ebay that were 90mm incased in a plastic shroud that will work also, but only on the Robo mods, they are too big for the insert. If you keep the insert, you will need 80mm CCFL, I haven’t found a source that is not on backorder right now for 80mm CCFL tubes that are white. This place in Germany said they might have some in the beginning of November. The website is WilTec - Runde Kaltlichtkathodenröhre mit 80mm Durchmesser If you are keeping the insert, I drilled two holes into the tunnel shrouds and attached the halos with zip ties. To glue the halos on I use Amazing Goop.





10. Test the halos before putting the glass back on. Just plug in the ballast and put it on any car battery. Red wire to positive, black wire to ground. Once they work you can put the glass back on. Also you will need to put the connector on the two wires from the halo. It was attached to the ballast. Just slip the metal clips into the outside holes, the middle one will be blank. You can see where they go in, and the little tab must be facing up.

11. Now you will need to have purchased some Windshield Glue.. It usually comes in a caulk tube and you will need a calking gun to use it... put a fairly generous bead of this stuff around the housing where the glass sits in...not enough that it is gushing over the canal.. this stuff is extremely messy and hard to get off things and your fingers... if you do get some on you, use the GOO GONE...

12. Ok now here is where you need to be CAREFUL!!! Grab your Glass Cover and gently lay it onto the housing... and press firmly. Go around the whole outside edge and press it into the canal... be careful not to get it on your fingers.. Rubber gloves would probably work great ( I put multiple layers on)...

13. Re-install the clips that you removed previously ... some people like to use some type of clamp to make sure they are sealed good... BE CAREFUL you don’t want to crack your glass with too much pressure... I just used enough glue and installed the clips...

14. Let them dry overnight.. Preferably.. If you take your time you will have a great finished product!!!

If you have any questions for more detail... PM me I will be happy to help you out...

Last edited by dbest671; 10-25-2010 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Halo mod

+1 Excellent write will deff try this out in near future... thanks..
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Halo Robo mod instruction w/pictures

Yep, definitely a helpful write-up .

Also, for anybody trying to get the glue out of the gaps - for me, a pencil worked great for feeding the warm glue outside the canals.

Last edited by mikeyVR4; 10-25-2010 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Halo Robo mod instruction w/pictures

Don't use hot glue, as headlights do get hot. I used amazing goop.
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Halo Robo mod instruction w/pictures

Excellent write up! I will try this when I can afford glass headlights
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Halo Robo mod instruction w/pictures

Interesting that you drill holes in the housing to run wires. Always nice to see how others do it.
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Halo Robo mod instruction w/pictures

^^I guess I could try to fish them through the port holes that are already there, but I find drilling a smaller hole easier and the wires are less noticeable. I also color the halo wires black (permanent marker works well ), or you could use heat shrink tubing on them so they are not white.

Like I said I am anal... I also paint the glass lenses where the black used to be, most of them have the paint chipped or flaked off.

I guess I am effectively putting myself out of business eh?
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: Halo Robo mod instruction w/pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbest671 View Post

I guess I am effectively putting myself out of business eh?
In essence yep, but its nice to see
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: Halo Robo mod instruction w/pictures

Very great guide!
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