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Old 11-12-2012, 05:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Figi blue paint question

Anyone out there an auto body specialist, or anyone had experience painting Mitsubishi's stock Figi blue? I need to paint a spoiler and pass side aero panel. Pass aero panel paint is peeling on each end from improper prep work I'm thinking, the rear spoiler is red now and I need to paint it Figi blue. The paint on the spoiler is good, clear isnt peeling and paint overall is in good shape.

The body shops around me aren't the greatest and the one that is good charges allot. These pieces will be off car to make things simpler. I know a few things about the process but was wondering if someone could chime me in on the basics or let me know if I am missing something.

I know to use plastic body filler for deep gouges or what not, and I know the old paint if in good condition just needs to be scuffed up to allow paint to adhere. Someone said to use an orbital, or by had with the red/maroon scotch bright pads. I have herd of adhesion promoters for plastic that is in a rattle can which you apply before paint. So with the correct paint is the adhesion promoter needed?

Now to paint/primer. Is the Factory Figi blue 2 stage? From my research I think it is a single. And if I do need the promoter, apply primer over it and then paint.....or does the adhesion promoter act as a primer for the paint?

I know you get better results in a spray booth that is free of dust, but is there a way to make a makeshift spray booth? Has anyone found something that works ok for this? I was thinking a clean garage might do. Or get some painters plastic and somewhat surround the pieces im painting.

I know it would be quicker and less of a headache to have the body shop do, but I enjoy learning new skills just as long as I have enough info starting a new project so things don't go horribly wrong.

Any info and help would be a big help. I also may need a used spray gun, so if anyone has a good used one shoot me a price. Thanks

Jeremy
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

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I know to use plastic body filler for deep gouges or what not, and I know the old paint if in good condition just needs to be scuffed up to allow paint to adhere. Someone said to use an orbital, or by had with the red/maroon scotch bright pads. I have herd of adhesion promoters for plastic that is in a rattle can which you apply before paint. So with the correct paint is the adhesion promoter needed?

I don't have professional experience but I'll lend what help I can with the sanding and my consultations with my nearest body shop who has been kind enough to help me out and show me the way.

You can do it by hand, however that will take a lot of work. Ideally, you want an air sander or an electric if that's all you can get. Start with around an 80 or 120 grit to put a real good tooth into and it'll take off whatever paint is on there that is loose.

Move up to a 180 or a 220. I have been told that you can use the red scotch bright pads, but best results are still sanding and then moving to the red scotch bright for final sanding.

If you are using sand paper by hand, you'll get the best results using tools meant to hold the paper either perfectly flat or with a curve as necessary. It can be hard to get smooth even sanding by hand.

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I know you get better results in a spray booth that is free of dust, but is there a way to make a makeshift spray booth? Has anyone found something that works ok for this? I was thinking a clean garage might do. Or get some painters plastic and somewhat surround the pieces im painting.
I have seen people lay out large amounts of plastic sheeting on the ground and under the parts and spray on their own, but you will probably get over spray everywhere. Alternatively, you could buy some lumber (or repurpose some old lumber) and frame up a booth of sorts using plastic sheeting. I'd recommend a cut out or hole for a box fan (or two) and put air conditioner filters on them to keep dust from getting in. Probably a push-pull set up would be best for that at opposite corners of your makeshift booth.

You could also set up a small heater of sorts in there, but you'd have to be careful not to melt the sheeting around you. You don't want it to be too cold in there otherwise it will make adhesion difficult.

You'd need a pretty large or powerful air compressor to realistically paint well without worries of running out of air with an HVLP gun, although you COULD get away with using an LVLP gun although I've never messed with one. Check the maximum cfm your compressor can put out and compare that to the CFM the gun will use.

In truth, most of the expense from painting stuff comes from the labor prepping pieces. The cost of painting a 2g rear end swap for my 1st gen TT was going to be about 500 bucks, but doing the labor for the sanding and such myself and letting them paint it's only 50 bucks plus whatever the paint costs me. You could also look into just renting a booth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIEBOG View Post
Now to paint/primer. Is the Factory Figi blue 2 stage? From my research I think it is a single. And if I do need the promoter, apply primer over it and then paint.....or does the adhesion promoter act as a primer for the paint?

Any info and help would be a big help. I also may need a used spray gun, so if anyone has a good used one shoot me a price. Thanks

Jeremy
Adhesion promoters do exactly that: Help paint adhere to a surface. However, proper sanding does just as well. If you're going to do this, do it right. Use a good primer (you can use a high build to fill in gouges and scratches so that you don't bondo, but give it extra time to cure and then you'll have to sand it back down) and apply light misting coats. The primer will help block the red from coming through (otherwise your Fiji Blue turns into Fiji Purple) and the first couple of light layers serve to dry somewhat quickly and tack up increasing adhesion for subsequent layers. As far as laying down actual paint and clear, I'm not familiar with how to match the paint and hue to what's currently on the car (thus why I'm having an actual body shop do that for me) however someone else can probably chip in with that and mixing properly for it.

As far as your gun, check Harbor Freight Tools. Cheap and plentiful for this situation, I can't advise spending 200 bucks on a gun unless you were seriously respraying everything on the car. I advise an LVLP gun unless you have a shop sized compressor.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

Thanks for all the info. I really like the idea of using some lumber to make a booth with fans on each end as well as filters on the fans. I think that is what ill do. Just curious but how do you paint say the spoiler? I am going to disassemble it first, but what is the best way to paint it top and bottom? Im thinking of suspending it by a bolt or a metal hook in a hole.

Ya Figi purple isn't what I'm after, so I'm glad you mentioned to use a few coats of primer to hide the red. I never would of thought the red would come threw a few coats of Figi. There is only like 1/32 deep chips and scratches so I think it is best like you said to use a build up primer then sand smooth. I'm guessing ill be sanding for days, which makes sense that prep is a big percentage in the price.

As far as compressor goes, I have a decent size craftsman oil less compressor that ill use. I herd that its better to use an oil less comp because small particles of oil can make its way into the paint. Also know I need a good water dryer/filter so there is no moisture entering paint stream.

I guess I have a pretty good understanding of what to do, just don't know about what paint to get. I thought it was a single stage but don't know for sure. It doesn't have the usual orange peel in the clear like newer cars do, but don't know if that is right or not. How much paint would be sufficient for side panel and a TT spoiler? Quart be enough?
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

Rather than lumber, I know you could also use PVC piping from a hardware store with some elbows and Ts as well. Not sure how you would secure the plastic over it though.

As far as the spoiler, suspending it by a bolt or something would probably work. If not, you could just spray the bottom and then spray the top. More important that the top comes out good since people won't really see the bottom.

This will give you pointers on using what's called a guide coat.

In short: a couple coats of high build primer (preferably different colors), then a thin misting of a coat of color. This will allow you to see high spots while sanding to really even it out and also keep you from sanding too deep (since you can see the different colored coats of the high build.) If you were more experienced maybe take a shot at doing it all with one color primer.

If you have a compressor, get a pneumatic sander (Harbor Freight Tools has them for like 30 bucks or so for a 6") to really save you time. Best investment I've made for doing hobby stuff. Again though for your chips and stuff, you still want to start off with like an 80 grit sand paper (or maybe 60) to really get that old paint up and go from there to help prevent any chance of a color bleed through. Used to have an old Eclipse that I bought used and it was originally red. Could tell because I could see it through the top coat of the new color.

For the compressor, you can get in line filters for the that (again, Harbor Freight has these.) If you are using an oil less design, you will also need a small bottle of oil for your sander. A couple drops every 15 minutes of operation will do you.

As far as paint, again I can't really say. I would think a quart should be sufficient for that. Not sure where you'd find it. At this point since you're doing it yourself, go with what you think is right and see how it turns out. If you think you did a good job, you could always respray the rest of the car. Somebody else on here is bound to know if the fiji is single or not.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

Pretty sure the fiji is single. I was going to buy mine from here. Good price on PPG.

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Old 11-17-2012, 12:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

"Again though for your chips and stuff, you still want to start off with like an 80 grit sand paper (or maybe 60) to really get that old paint up and go from there to help prevent any chance of a color bleed through"

So I really need to sand all of the red completely down to plastic? The paint is in good shape, no cracks or peeling on the red. I thought it was ok to paint over good paint as long as it was ruffed up. And the layers of primer won't cover red all the way? I don't want it showing threw, so if I have to ill sand it all down.

So what is the reason behind sanding between the layers of primer and then mist the color over and sand again? Is this to keep making the sanding scratches smaller and smaller? I was thinking if the last primer layer felt super smooth so to ahead and paint. But maybe it is not possible to see everything until a layer of color is applied? I know different gloss levels will show or not show certain things.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

It's the easiest way for beginners to see where they need to sand and where they don't. It lets you see the high's & low's, as well as letting you know when you're sanding too deep.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

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Originally Posted by DIEBOG View Post
So I really need to sand all of the red completely down to plastic? The paint is in good shape, no cracks or peeling on the red. I thought it was ok to paint over good paint as long as it was ruffed up. And the layers of primer won't cover red all the way? I don't want it showing threw, so if I have to ill sand it all down.
It doesn't have to be completely down to plastic. But you want to get it down for the the chips and the color. The deeper that the high build has to go, the longer it takes to cure so you can sand and start color painting. Additionally, a few passes with an 80 grit will knock off any of the paint that isn't adhering well anymore and will quickly bring the paint down below the level of the chips and scratches. It's your project and your car, you don't have to do it. But this is my recommendation and it's the way that I've done stuff like this before as it's better safe than sorry.

Paint isn't cheap, sand paper and sweat are.

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It's the easiest way for beginners to see where they need to sand and where they don't. It lets you see the high's & low's, as well as letting you know when you're sanding too deep.
^ Right. Since this is your first time sanding anything like this, it's your best bet to get a quality job. The way the paint turns out is all about the prep work.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

Thanks sergechronos.....ya I wan't a quality job, and I hate redoing things twice. So ya better safe then sorry goes a long way in this situation.

Along time ago I attempted to repaint a spoiler on another car and after I sanded it I got some wild idea to use acetone to finish removing the paint. It worked for a while....until the plastic started melting....dohhh! Abs and acetone DON'T mix. That was a hard lesson learned, I was using a plastic scraper too and it started pulling up big chunks of plastic. At first I thought it was filler, then realized it was the damn plastic underneath. Some people just gota learn the hard way. I was like 17 so I just chalked it up to being a dumb teen.

But it taught me to do research when attempting to tackle a project that I know nothing about. Like people always say on here "use the search button!" I was always the kind to throw instructions away and when all else fails dig the instructions outa trash and start over. I guess we all have our own ways of learning.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: Figi blue paint question

don't sand it all the way to plastic, just sand to the level of the depth of the scratches. original paint/primers provide a better surface than any rattle can primer can provide. I do recommend primering the piece once all the sanding is done, to make a smooth surface for the final coat to go on. From what i understand, the paint was originally a base coat clear coat combo, and not a single stage paint, but not sure if that applies to bolt on pieces such as the spoilers or mirrors. Either one should work fine provided sufficient effort is made in prep prior to the paint going on. I do recommend buying a high quality clearcoat should you decide to use the dual stage system. The cheap clear i used on mine last time did not last near as long as the better quality clears i'd used in the past, looked good for about 5 years then it peeled from sitting in the sun, now it will need to be resanded and reshot.

care must be taken when stripping abs pieces, scraping paint can easily gouge chunks of plastic out no matter how careful you are. Just fill them and repaint. I found out the hard way that sanding down to the plastic surface sometimes makes it rougher instead of smoother as it tears the plastic rather than smoothing it. This wouldn't happen with the spoiler but it does with the bumpers.

Last edited by Lord Warlock; 11-17-2012 at 12:58 PM.
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