92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center
3000GT/Stealth International 3000GT/Stealth International
 

Auto Insurance

» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   3000GT/Stealth International Message Center > Modifications and Technical Support > Miscellaneous > Body & Paint

3SI.org is the premier Mitsubishi 3000GT Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-13-2012, 02:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
Forum Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Rockford, IL
Drives: 92 VR-4 & 99 GT
Shifty556 is an unknown quantity at this point
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

Well guys...I pulled the trigger on my little (read: huge) paint project. I have a decent enough garage, 27' x 25', insulated heavily with a 40,000btu heater, 60gal compressor and a DeVilbiss HVLP gun.

I'll post some pics now and elaborate on the whole process later. My goal was to turn out something better than Maaco. So far, I'm told my results are really not too bad. This is the absolute first car I've ever attempted to paint. Prior to this, I painted a Camaro hood and a few test 3/S fenders.

First, here are some decals that I cut out with my Cricut machine when I was feeling artsy-fartsy... Probably won't make it onto my new, yellow paint, though. I do like how they turned out. And yes I have Brembo brakes and an Innovate LC-1 Wideband and SSi-4










Before wetsanding:


After a little wetsanding, before too much buffing...


A little relaxation time...
__________________
Installed...

A'pexi Turbo Timer, PMP FMIC, A'pexi AVC-R, A'pexi SAFC-2, Innovate Wideband, Supra fuel pump, 450cc's, dr500's, alcohol injection, poly motor mounts, 300M OS.

Soon to install...

New long block when everything asplodes...
Shifty556 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-13-2012, 06:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
ROTM Moderator
 
tazman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Drives: 95, 96, & 98 SL
tazman is an unknown quantity at this point
Feedback Score: 123 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

It's looking pretty good!
__________________
Owner since 2001! 3Si #1336
"When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?"
I'm going to update my sig pic soon!
tazman is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2012, 08:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
Paid Member
 
GTwizard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: East of Dallas TX.
Drives: Mitsubishi
GTwizard Level 1GTwizard Level 1
Feedback Score: 5 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

Damn nice.
__________________
Mods
OBX long tube headers, Flow master single 3" in with dual 2.5 outs. VR4 runners with 2 liter plenum, port matched lower intake, stage 3 or better race preped heads with 1 mm oversize Rev valves, Rev race dual springs and Rev keepers, Delta/HKS 272 cams, 3SX adjustable cam gears, 3.0 Cobra Mustang Throttle body, 3.0 LT1 maft and Maftranslater gen II, Alum. Flywheel, Spec stage 5 clutch, VR4 injectors, Wizard wires, Unorthadox under drive. IPS fuel rails w/adj FPR, Fuel loop, Walboro 255 hot wired, Hot wired single fan. Short shifter, Battery relocate. EBC front slotted rotors, EBC Yellow stuff Pads, 3SX SST brake lines, sway bars, springs.
No IAC, NO AC, NO extra weight, VR4 ECU as of NG2011. Still 10 to 1 slugs, Nitto NT05 Comptition Road Course Racing tires. Magan coil overs, 3sx adjustable rear links.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s0I3tnGGmg[/url]
1st place fastest NA - TXG 2012. 1ST place highest hp NA-240 FWHP TXG-2012. 1st place fastest NA - Drag - TXG 11 98mph, 1st place quickest NA - drags 14.773, 1st place Dyno - TXG11 229 FWHP & 236 tq, 2ND place Auto cross NA C/S- NG2011, 1ST place NA dyno - TX gathering 2010 - 229 FWHP & 199 tq, 1st place Fastest NA - TXG 2010 - 98.3 trap, 1st Place quickest NA - TXG 2010 - 14.680, 2ND place 1/4 at NG10, best NA time NG10 - 14.932- no traction, 2ND place 1/4 at NG09,
2ND place Autocross NG09
GTwizard is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2012, 08:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
Verified Seller
 
LeRoyDL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Tucson, AZ
Drives: 91 RTTT 92TTFWD
LeRoyDL Level 1LeRoyDL Level 1
Feedback Score: 57 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

Looks very nice. Good job!
LeRoyDL is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-13-2012, 11:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
Verified Seller
 
CHRIS75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Florida
Drives: 93 3000GT VR-QUATTRO
CHRIS75 is an unknown quantity at this point
Feedback Score: 25 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

Nice, get more pictures.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by blizzy View Post
he was probably used to driving his civic and he punched 2nd hahahahaha

F1 ... Where Nascar & Indi Drivers Dream To Compete
CHRIS75 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2012, 01:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
Forum Member
 
RawgDawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wyoming
Drives: 1992 SOHC & TT
RawgDawg is an unknown quantity at this point
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

Thanks for posting those pics. I'm painting a sunburned base model and although the taping might seem like common sense, it's nice to actually see where it goes.

Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to exit the vehicle after taping all that plastic over the inside of the doors

Paint looks great!
RawgDawg is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2012, 09:31 AM   #7 (permalink)
Forum Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Rockford, IL
Drives: 92 VR-4 & 99 GT
Shifty556 is an unknown quantity at this point
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

I will post more pics asap. I have a bunch of good ones after 3000 grit sanding and rubbing compound.

RawgDawg, as far as plastic goes.... What I did was to run lines of duct tape inside the doors, all the way around. Then, I took my plastic and let it hang from the roof over the door hole. Then, just push the plastic onto the duct tape and it will stick really well. For the rear hatch opening, same deal. Run the duct tape all the way around, from the inside of that opening, such that the sticky side of the tape is pointing up towards the ceiling. Then, stage the plastic on the roof and yank it over the hatch area. It'll settle down and meet the duct tape.

After that, just run around the openings with scissors and cut off all the excess plastic.

I'll take pictures. I do not have a good way with words.

Here's one quick pic of the hood after Meguiar's Ultimate Compound applied by hand. *edit* this pic looks alot better on my phone! Will add more soon. Thanks for the kind words and support!
Shifty556 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2012, 10:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
Forum Member
 
Cloudd033's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Drives: 1992 stealth R/T TT
Cloudd033 is an unknown quantity at this point
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

I'm in the midst of peeping my car. I'm still working on the major work that's need to be done so I still have a little way to go but, could you run me through what grits you used at each different step and when you dry sanded and when u wet sanded?
Cloudd033 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2012, 01:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
NC Insurance Agent
 
jbeard1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kings Mountain, NC
Drives: 1995 3000GT
jbeard1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

Subscribing... Looking good man!
__________________
jbeard1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-14-2012, 01:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
Forum Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Rockford, IL
Drives: 92 VR-4 & 99 GT
Shifty556 is an unknown quantity at this point
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Default Re: 92 VR-4 Paint-at-home Project - Viper Yellow

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloudd033 View Post
I'm in the midst of peeping my car. I'm still working on the major work that's need to be done so I still have a little way to go but, could you run me through what grits you used at each different step and when you dry sanded and when u wet sanded?
Absolutely.

1) Begin with stock paint
2) Use pneumatic or electric DA sander with dry 180 grit pad to rough up existing paint
3) Identify low spots / spots in need of body work
4) Do body work. I popped as many dents as I could, but I had to resort to Bondo and spot filler quite a bit (20-year-old paint, lots of little chips in paint, spot filler works a treat)
5) Wet-sand Bondo flush to body panel with 500 grit
6) Go over panel with tack cloth and make sure it's totally clean. It would be prudent to also use wax&grease remover, but I did not
7) Wet the floor of painting area and sqeegee the excess water out. Let it sit for a bit to let excess moisture escape. This kept humidity down for me and obviously helped combat airborne dust particles
8) Spray your primer. Go for full coverage, at least, but you can keep building up if you need to fill a few really minor flaws (spot filler should have covered most of them)
9) Let primer set up for 1-2 hours (depending on brand) and then wet-sand the primer with 500 grit and get it nice and smooth (See below...you'll want to use the soon-to-be-mentioned sanding blocks for this step)
10) Tack cloth again to remove dust and other junk before you...
11) Spray color.

12a) Now, if you are shooting a single-stage paint, put 3+ layers on. You are going for not only full coverage with the paint, but you want to build it up enough to where you can wet-sand it and buff it afterwards (and for years to come, if needed).

12b) If you are shooting a base coat / clear coat, just get good, even coverage with the color, you may only need two coats of it. As long as you don't have a lot of orange peel you are ok (you will have some...robots at auto manufacturers can't even spray perfectly, look at the paint on a brand new car...). In my experience, if you cake 3 layers of clear on top of the lightly orange-peeled paint, you can wet-sand the clear and get a pretty good looking result. If you are going for a show-car finish, then stop reading this thread and go to auto-body school! :-P *edit* I Google'd this a lot before starting and most people say that orange peel in the color coat will show through the clear no matter how much you sand the clear...I didn't find that to be the case, and I have a pretty critical eye for my own work. Anyways...on with the show...

13a) Alright. So - you've got your color laid down with a few coats of clear on top of it. You've waited 3-4 days for the clear to set up (I've wet-sanded clear coat after about 18 hours...but, unless you're in a hurry, wait for it to set up and cure a little more)

13b) Get some sanding blocks...
Motor Guard RL-1 Roller Block Sanding Block - Amazon.com Motor Guard RL-1 Roller Block Sanding Block - Amazon.com

Amazon.com: Motor Guard SB-1 Soft Block Flexible Sanding Block: Home Improvement Amazon.com: Motor Guard SB-1 Soft Block Flexible Sanding Block: Home Improvement

Motor Guard HT-1 Holey Terror Sanding Block - Amazon.com Motor Guard HT-1 Holey Terror Sanding Block - Amazon.com


And get a California blade
Pilot Automotive CC-2010 11 Pilot Automotive CC-2010 11" Soft and Dry Water Blade : Amazon.com : Automotive


13c) Fill a spray bottle and a 5 gal bucket with lukewarm, soapy water. Just use dish soap. Soak a 2' x 2' or so area and hit it with 1000 or 1500 grit sand paper. Start "cross-blocking" the area with the sandpaper, using the sanding block. Basically, you just want to make your sanding strokes be perpendicular to each other. Usually I go diagonal strokes from bottom-left to top-right, then go back over the area the opposite way. Just google "cross blocking" if you don't get it.

13d) After a few strokes in each direction with the sandpaper, squeegee the area off with the California blade. You'll immediately see that the area is now really, really dull. You'll inevitably see a few spots here and there that are still shiny...those are the low spots - you want to keep sanding lightly until they are gone. Soak the area and sand those spots a little more, a little at a time, squeegee-ing the area frequently until all shiny spots are gone. This is where you'll probably be thinking "What the F am I doing...this looks dull and terrible". It should look like that at this point. Don't worry, dull is exactly what you are going for. Don't burn through to the primer!!! If you do, hit the panel again with 500 grit wetsand and spray more color. It happens if you aren't careful, but it's not the end of the world.

14) Hit the area with 2000 grit, now. If you did a good job on the previous step, you are only using the 2000 grit to remove 1000/1500 grit sanding marks. Again...cross-block in this step.

15) Optional : Use 3000 grit paper to wetsand the area further. Haven't done this enough to know if it's necessary. I used the 3000 in the above picture of the hood.

16a) Use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound (by hand, or get someone to teach you how to use a power buffer). I am a bit gun-shy of my power buffer, as you can easily burn through paint and clear coat on the edges of body panels.

16b) Wet the area and use the remaining Meguiars compound to further work the area. Wipe the area off with a lint-free cloth. You should have a pretty decent finish. I really don't know how long you have to wait before you use polish.

You don't need to use Meguiar's Ultimate, but you should make sure whatever you use is safe on fresh paint. Google it...don't take a chance and F up your new paint. I'm sure someone that does this for a living will tear my process apart...but hey, I'm not a pro.

I'm just an average Joe that does IT work for a living and car work is one of my many interests (I play ice hockey, race R/C cars and slot cars, play and paint Warhammer 40k mini's, paint model military craft and cars, play airsoft, powdercoat stuff...the list goes on and on.) This is how I accomplished the finish in the pictures shown above. You can see in the two pics of the rear left quarter panel that you can end up with a lot of orange peel and still have a good looking product if you're willing to wet-sand and buff your newly-sprayed paint.

Please feel free to ask any questions about any step. I tried to be thorough. There are many guides and videos online showing how to tune an HVLP gun. Those are required reading/watching. And, with the money you are saving my painting your car yourself, you should be able to afford a somewhat decent HVLP gun. I bought a DeVilbiss FLG-4. I found it locally on CraigsList for $175. It's not the end-all be-all, but it is better than Harbor Freight (I have two HF guns - I'd use them for thicker, higher build primer, but that's it)
Amazon Amazon
<-- link to DeVilbiss gun I used


Again, I'd love to help anyone - just keep in mind that I am an absolutely self-taught novice painter that Google'd the ever-loving shit out of this subject, did a lot of asking around, and only a small bit of practice before deciding to shoot my own car. It's not impossible, not even close. I'm turning out paint in my garage that, minus a few dust specs here and there that floated onto the wet paint, look better than most factories would do. I'm waiting to do the engine bay until the next time I pull my engine, for anyone that is wondering.

Last edited by Shifty556; 11-14-2012 at 02:00 PM.
Shifty556 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  3000GT/Stealth International Message Center > Modifications and Technical Support > Miscellaneous > Body & Paint

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Free email addresses do not work(yahoo, hotmail, gmail,...)
We are currently being blocked by AOL so any AOL based address may not work(aol.com, aim.com, netscape.net, cs.com)
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:17 PM.




Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.3.2