Clutch release bearing/trans fork issues!!

[Stealthee]

You are backwards. The pressure plate normally has the disc under pressure. Pressing the clutch pedal forces fluid through the system and moves the rod on the slave, which pushes the bearing against the pressure plate, which disengages the clutch.

There is no spring.

[zero or die]

I'm confused as to what the issue you're having exactly is. The clutch pedal is coming back up just fine now that you installed the new clutch/throwout bearing, correct? If it's just that the clutch is extremely light, the OEM clutches on the non-turbos are just that way. I could barely feel mine for a while after I put in a new clutch.

If the issue is that the clutch remains at the floor, go over your clutch hydraulic system. If the pedal isn't coming back up, I would assume the master or slave cylinder was at fault (or a hole somewhere in the line system), but your clutch fluid would be low if that was the case. There is also a spring on the pedal itself, but the hydraulic fluid itself should bring the pedal back up.

[WuNdAbReD]

If I said it backwards it was only in haste as I know the logistics of how a hydraulic clutch works. It seems to me and I was told by a decent mechanic that the bearing and fork should be tight to the plate not loose and floppy. If i pry the fork in towards the plate with a pry bar and rock the car while in gear I can't get it to roll, thus the disc isn't releasing. As of yet I havn't had the opportunity to properly bleed the slave and see if it holds pressure to see if it is shot, although on sunday while opening the slave bleeder and pumping the clutch I got it to suck down about 2 reservoirs before finally getting fluid and not air. It seemed to hold that pressure but not make any difference to the fork problem I'm having. As far as the pedal is concerned that is the least of my problems as I'm sure that's only a bleeding issue, although the pedal spring you spoke of seems to be broke as well. If I touch the pedal it drops to the floor, if I pick it all the way up it stays. I'm pretty sure the trans,fork, bearing and everything with that are ok so I'm hoping not to have to pull the trans again. I think at this point from what I know and what I have been told it should be just a slave issue. Although I am worried the the fork seems loose as hell which is why I asked if there was supposed to be a spring behind it to take up that slack. I'm glad to find out there is spring although now I'm leaning toward a bad fork as stealthee stated. What is the procedure for changing the fork if that is my prob? I'm sure I can find it in the archives somewhere but was really wonderin if I should just take the trans out again so I can see what is really goin on in there. How do I know if the fork broke with the trans installed? I'm at a loss here but have a nice rainy day to invest in her tomorrow...

[speedy25]

Originally Posted by WuNdAbReD

So if the slave isnt bled out all the way the fork will have no resistance? Is it just the force of the bearing pressing against the fingers that engages the disc? And when the slave pushes the fork the bearing moves away from the plate? Shouldn't the fork be under pressure anyway though? Unless it is broken?

If there is air in the slave line the slave cannot push the release fork.

The TOB pushing against the pressure plate fingers RELEASES the clutch disk.

The action of the slave pushing the fork pushes the TOB against the pressure plate.

Got it straight now? It works this way on EVERY car I have ever worked on.

-SP

[WuNdAbReD]

I understand what it does or is supposed to do.....mine doesn't. Probably it is a bad slave problem I'm having now because when the bearing went, the vibration or whatever happened when the bearing seized, or me driving it that way for less than a quarter mile in second gear, must have damaged the slave cylinder. Nonetheless, It now looks like a picture of an old worn out one I have seen on here, the boot is loose and stretched looking and the push rod pulls/falls out of the slave. Btw, is that supposed to happen? Also is the factory color of the slave light blue or are there oem ones painted that way too? I'm wondering if the slave is the original one and the trans swap i got was a fairly lightly used one. I know not to rely on that as a guide to age nor do I rely on the word of the mechanic who told me it had 60k on it.

Anyway, when I bleed it all out it never seems to really pump up and hold, so I'm figuring to put a new slave cylinder on. I should have checked out what was up with losing pressure on the clutch and try bleeding the clutch to see if the slave was good before I took it all apart. Like I said I'm a carpenter not a mechanic. Anyway, after I do the slave I'll see if I need to take out the trans again and mess with the fork. I'll keep posting...

Originally Posted by speedy25

If there is air in the slave line the slave cannot push the release fork.

The TOB pushing against the pressure plate fingers RELEASES the clutch disk.

The action of the slave pushing the fork pushes the TOB against the pressure plate.

Got it straight now? It works this way on EVERY car I have ever worked on.

-SP

[speedy25]

Lets start with the easiest bits...

Does ANY of the clutch hydraulic system leak?

Does your pedal come off the floor by itself when you push it down?

Can you have someone help to confirm the slave moves the release arm?

-SP