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#1 (permalink) |
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Meow
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So I took my car apart today to try and source down a transmission
leak. Well, i think i found it. My transmission would only leak while I was driving and for 1-2 days after it would dump all over the driveway. Then nothing would drip unless I drove the car again. So I looked my car over and it seems to be coming from my passenger side axle. I Remeber the seal was broken a little when I got the transmission from someone trying to pry the axle out of it. I put some sealant on it and hoped it would hold. Well, my transmission help fluid fine for about 4 months. Then it got horrid. I assume that tons of fluid would be flung all over the underbody of my car and then for the next day or two it would drip off the car until I drove it again. Then the process would start again. Does this sound like it could be the cause for it all? Now how would I go about fixing this? Can I do it with the trans in the car? What seal kit do I need?
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![]() 5Zigen FN01R-C BLP w/ 265/35/18 Nitto 555's JDM (MR) Geared 6-Speed Swap w/ PST CFDS Full 99 Body Conversion w/ DeftRacing 575 Hood ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Dont Make Me Lose My Mind
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That axle seal is pressed in. I pressed mine in myself but I had the whole transmission apart when I did it. I think you could do it with it still on the car by prying the old one out and gently tapping the new one in with a big socket and hammer. I am not sure on that so get someone else's opinion on that.
You can get the seal here as part of a kit. I'm not sure if they would sell it individually so you would have to contact them. http://supercar-engineering.com/sc2/...be682217ba4bd0
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#4 (permalink) |
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Dont Make Me Lose My Mind
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It doesn't take much of a tear on the rubber to leak oil. That is the only seal on the drive axles that keep the oil in the transmission. Even a small tear will make it leak. You just have to be careful when you first insert the axle so you don't jack up the seal.
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#5 (permalink) |
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One Shizz-rippin' M F
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its easy once you pull the axle off, just pry it out with a screwdriver/prybar, and press the new one in with an appropriatly sized socket or pipe. You just need to make sure its in straight or it will leak again.
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Black 92RTTT EVO 3 16g's with JAC headers, 6 speed, 5zigen FNO1c's, AN-6 fuel lines and Aeromotive FPR, PTE 680's, 13.5"AP 6pot brakes, AEM EMS, DSM sidemounts, useless stuff removed. 60k's done $300+ parts, can do any 3/S work. Parts for sale: http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?p=3961260#post3961260 ![]() |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Meow
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I found a brand new seal just sitting in my garage! When my brother had a Vr4 he replaced the same seal, and apparently bought a few. I got the seal replaced, but my axle boot's clamp was missing... so that came apart. I dont know what happened, but I need this fixed now. We will see if this fixes it. I gotta cross my fingers, otherwise I am in for a ton more work and money.
![]() Last edited by eblank8 : 03-13-2007 at 10:04 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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TEXAS!! FIGHT!!
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Heh, your brother decided to by multiples of a $25 seal? Nice
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PEARL WHITE '93 VR-4 // Under Construction. Looking forward to lighting up the drag radials
E16G's: 10.573 @ 135.01 (Trevor owns me )E16G's: 11.28 @ 124.7 (Pure pump gas ET record )14B's: 11.10 @ 127.3 (AWD 14B ET record. Take THAT, Trev! 9B's: 12.78 @ 107.1 Still clinging to my spot in the top 10: DynamicRacing: US 3S Top 10 Fastest List |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Dont Make Me Lose My Mind
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You will have to clean out the CV joint, regrease it and then put a new clamp on it. Some CV boots use zip ties to secure them so you can use a sip tie in a pinch. Otherwise, head to your nearest parts store for a new clamp.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Meow
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Quote:
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