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#241 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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1994 3000GT VR4 PEARL WHITE
mods: K&N FIPK Greddy type-S BOV manual boost controller @ 14-15 psi dual A pillar pods for boost gauge and air/fuel gapped down platinum spark plugs and magnecor 8.5mm wires stillen downpipe custom stainless steel 3in cat-less exhaust aftermarket y-pipe EGR block off plates DXD 6-puck clutch cross drilled/slotted rotors semi-metallic brake pads what next? |
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#242 (permalink) | |
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It's like that
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![]() 1993 Sandstone Gray Metallic VR-4 "Find the job you love and you won't have to work a day in your life." -Confucious 3SI Member #705 |
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#244 (permalink) |
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Ok guys, here's what I can lend to the transfer case saga:
The head of warranties at the local big Mitsu dealership got in touch with corporate Mitsu as she promised. She left me voicemail & I called her back. She said she confirmed through her sources that a recall should be out within a month - official - from Mitsu itself. She doesn't want me to wait a month though because I told her I've got a small leak already. Here's the sweet part. She set up an appointment for a free inspection on the lift with her techs. If they find the leak (as I am 99% certain they will) then she is going to set me up for a replacement at no cost and bill Mitsu -- this is because she has verified the recall is on the way. My car is a '92 ... and I'm getting warranty work done for NOTHING if this pans out like she's telling me will happen. I'm really really psyched. Now I need to know: Will my leaky transfer case make anything else fail early (it hasn't locked up - I don't mean the obvious). Could any of the shafts or connecting parts be worn as a result?? I want to be sure they check them too if that's a possibility. Last edited by jamb53 : 08-12-2002 at 10:02 PM. |
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#245 (permalink) |
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I love my car
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i wonder how much more they would charge if you wanted to get your clutched changed while they are messing around under there. How much longer you guys think it would take to change the clutch if your tf is already off?
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Totaled 92 Pearl White SL
93 3000GT VR4 12.889@105.23 BPU - Downpipe/Cats Pearl White, Black Tint, Black stripe in front Painted to White, Casttrol GTX 10-40w in transaxle, Redline in rear diff, Castrol GTX in Motor, Flowmaster with 3inch pipes, Borla tips (fucking expensive), K&N Air filter, Snake Eyes, HKS TT Type 1, Polished Spark plug cover (by dave best), Mesh Grill, Blitz SBC ID, Blitz Power Meter ID, HKS SS BOV, NGK Lazer Platnium Spark plugs at .32, Stillen Downpipe, no cats, 100W Fog lights, Polished plenum, Walbro fuel pump, Pocket Logger, Krankvent, Taylor spark plug wires, Autometer EGT guage, Autometer A/F guage, Autometer A-Pillar Dual pod, 0-60 in 3.8 seconds active aero, 99 backup panel, Intrax Springs, 98 Chrome VR4 rims, TEC Performance Front Strut Bar, PST 1pc CFDS. Looking to buy: Non leaking snake Eyes Cars That I WILL buy one day: 1999 Mitsubishi Vr4, 1969 Dodge Super BEE, 2002 Bugatti 16/4 Veyron Kills: 91 Accord Destroyed, 95ish Supra smoked, 90-93ish mustang 5.0, 92ish Porche 911, 01 VW Golf annihlated, VW Jetta 1.8t, 92ish, 95ish mustang gt, 93ish mustang 5.0 highway kill, 97-00 Dodge Viper GTS, dodge dakota R/T, 99ish Mustang, 2002 infinityi I35, 99 c5 vette, 90ish mustang, 99ish T/A, 2001 mustang gt, 00ish Viper from a roll Owned By: 6g72tt (lucky) ![]() |
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#247 (permalink) | ||||||||||
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#248 (permalink) |
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For changing the T-case; you need to drop the down pipe and you have access to the T-case! (1/2 hours job)
For the tranny, after ½ hours for the T-case; you need to drop 2 half shafts, starter, tranny mount, shifter cables, clutch cylinder, splash cover between motor & tranny, frame brace under tranny, electrical connection and tranny bolt. (4 to 5 hours) When I did my 6 speeds conversion, it took me about 6 hours to do and I didn’t change the clutch. Mind you, it’s only an hour more for the clutch.
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92 Red Stealth RT/TT....to much to list....
95 Pearl Yellow 3000GT ....sold.... Mitsubishi OEM parts Transmission Rebuild, Rack & Pinion, Half-Shaft, Aluminium Radiator You need them!!! I have them!!!FOU RACING Camber & Toe Bar Kits are now exclusively sold through Speedfreak Racing |
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#249 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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Does this sound like a Transfer Case problem?
Well I was on my way to the NG in Indiana, and after stopping at a friends house to drop off the dogs, me and the wife started the 6+ hour trip. We didnt even make it off of his road and something broke! I was in first going around a turn, then went into second and gave it about half throttle, when BAM! Almost sounded like I went over a big pothole and that the rearend was going to stay in it. I pushed the clutch in a coasted a little, then I tried to engage the clucth again, and when it was fully engaged it would do the same bang, bang, bang noise. I towed the car back to my friends and got it up on jacks. I was able to move all of the tires and driveshat at the same time with no noise from anything. The back was a little tighter feeling then the front, but nothing seemed to catching inside. I startred the car up and tried to engage the clutch once again, and magically the problem reappeared, bang, bang, bang. The banging noise had a constent pattern. It would bang, then nothing, then bang, then nothing as the tires went around. The car would move, but just makes this awful noise. I started checking underneathe and I noticed that the rearend was leaking, but not dripping. The exhaust flex section was coated in the oil, as well as all around the connection to the drive shaft. I had just recently replaced all of the driveline fluids with Redline, about 4 months ago or so. I never noticed any spots on the driveway. Any thoughts or ideas? I will try to take some pics of the underside of the car. I am confused at this point as to what might be the problem.
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Got Boost?
'91 Dodge Stealth RT/TT |
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