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#1 (permalink) |
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Unforeseen dichotomy.
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Alright, I've seen many posts and questions in the last year or so about doing the output shaft without pulling the tranny. I just installed my 300M shaft, so I thought I would offer some tips.
First of all, let me credit JRC - http://www.vr4stealth.com/output_shaft.htm and whom ever made this page - http://hireznet.com/swap.htm. I probably wouldn't have tried it without their help. EDIT: Also wanted to give props to Sean (Internexus) who helped out a lot as well. Now let me just tell you. Its easy. I'm not going to give a full out guide to doing it, as those two sites above are available. However, I have some good advice. 1. You do NOT need to remove anything suspension or drive train related other than the transfer case and the passenger side wheel. 2. To get that allen bolt out that sits in your input shaft, you can use a crowbar to hold the flywheel in place through that access hole on the front (of the car) side of the tranny. 3. Before pulling the tranny cover off, remove the the little plate that holds the the three balls and sprins in. This will make removing the cover easier. You may want to place a towel under the tranny when you pull the tranny cover, so you don't lose the balls if they fall (mine didn't). 4. You will probably have to hammer the cover off a bit. Take it easy, and use some soft wood or soemthing to wedge in one side while you hammer on the other to provide some better leverage for you. 5. Once you think you have the cover's dowels disconnected, the input shaft is still probably holding it on. Stick the allen head bolt back in the shaft and give it a few taps to free it from the cover. 6. Since you didn't remove anything suspension related, you can NOT remove the super long bolt at the lower left corner of the case (its too long to clear the A-arm). Just swivel the case cover on this bolt. 7. You may have to pry the gear that hangs over the VCU to get it to clear so the VCU cap can come off. At first I was prying on the gear, but Internexus (Sean) realized we can just stick something in the end of that shaft and pry that way. 8. Don't be too worried about pushing the pins in the VCU cap too far in. You have a long way to go before they'll fall out. 9. Use some RTV when reassembling. 10. Tighten everything up evenly when putting the case cover back on! Let me know if you have any questions. Again, for a full procedure guide, see the two I listed above.
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Jason
03 350z Track 94 Stealth TT 95 3000GT base 93 Stealth R/T (sold) 92 3000GT VR-4 (Sold) 91 3000GT VR-4 (Totaled) Last edited by AbsurdParadox : 03-12-2004 at 07:53 AM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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I would think the biggest credit has to go to Ray Pampena!
He's the one who created the 300M shaft.
__________________
----------------[2007 Ride of the Year
![]() "Stroke" her I did. Retired - TD04 WRX19t's = 513awhp @ 18psi on PUMP ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Unforeseen dichotomy.
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Quote:
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#5 (permalink) |
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Real Enthusiast
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If you put a jack under the hub you can raise the control arm an inch or two and get the long bolt out. I had a hard time getting the cover back on with all the weight of the gears pulling the shafts down so I used a jack under the cover to help me lift everything back into place as I worked the cover dowel pins back into the holes.
Yes the 300M rocks, I need to brace the t-case and get a cfds and my drivetrain will be complete. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Corn Its whats for boost
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Quote:
Oh and Absurd gets a Positive for his reputation rating for this post. ![]()
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AEM Factory Trained Tuner
![]() 91VR4 Black-5027s-3.0L-Stock heads and Cams- 770AWHP 670AWTQ uncorrected 33psi E90 Daily Driver SLTT-10.9 @ 140MPH Stock NA motor and NA heads/Cams T4 AWD 9.21 @ 154.98 T2 FWD 10.19 @ 140.31 T4-159.23 MPH Ran on 6G72 3.1L! T4-995AWHP Uncorrected 6G72 3.0L C16 T2-820FWHP 3.1L 27psi C16 91VR4 Red-17Gs w/supporting mods-sold 93SLTT/T2 91VR4 Pearl White-sold 91VR4 Black-sold 92VR4 Sandstone-sold 94VR4 Green-sold 93VR4 Pearl White-sold NG09 Title Sponsor 3SX Performance 3SX Performance Service Email |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Wow, that second link to removing the ouput shaft is a good one. I had used JRC's when I did mine (which was also helpful). The hardest part for me was getting the cover plate off and on. Neither link talks about removing the bearing that has the gear that is partially blocking the "coffee can". Did you guys not remove this, or was it not noted? That is another thing that could use some description. You need a puller for the bearing and some snap ring pliers to get the c-clip off. I have been meaning to do a writeup for some time now. Lastly, I definately recommend sealing the trans with RTV before putting that cover plate back on. Mine ended up leaking and I had to redo it. Nice job
-Mike Quote:
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Unforeseen dichotomy.
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Quote:
![]() IPO: You are 80% right. The 300M shaft is not an exact duplicate of the stock output shaft. Its skinnier. ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Verified Seller
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Quote:
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#10 (permalink) |
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Wannabe
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How much is a 300M output shaft, and where do I get one? I found this thread by searching... but will keep searching...
I would like to bring my VR-4 to the track this summer and NG but don't want to end up like so many others and snap it. I'm harsh on my car. I won't savor any mercy off the line.
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![]() ![]() 1991 3000GT VR-4 1991 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 |
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