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#11 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I wouldn't run without that needle bearing thing. Assuming the output shaft splines and transfer case coupler splines are perfectly tight with each other, then yes, that bearing, in theory, won't do didly squat but take up space as the shaft will ride on the transfer case bearings and be perfectly happy. But these output shafts will wear over time (unless someone has a permanent solution to stop it from happening) and play is going to develop and that output shaft is going to start wobbling.
That, and when the parts are under tension, that output shaft may be much happier with the bearing's support if the tension causes the shaft to flex and such. Those are my thoughts on it. But then, I've never tried running without one of those bearings. Maybe it'll be fine, but I'm going to vote No.
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92 Stealth R/T TT 70k
92 Daytona ES 2.5 Turbo / A523 103k 92 Lebaron GTC Conv. 2.5 Turbo / A568 153k 91 Daytona ES 3.0 V-6 / A543 190k 95 Grand Prix SE 3.1 / 4T60E 202k ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#12 (permalink) |
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jackstransmissions.com
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When the splines wear down, the shaft will have more play when moving in a twisting motion, but will not 'wobble'. When you wear down splines you are not hollowing out the coupler, so it will always be held tight into place when in a position to wobble or move in any other way than intended. If you have a wobble, or something going on with your output shaft that will make it move that way, you are already dead. The tranny is done whether you have that bearing or not. I don't do this to customers units, but have done it to my own and never had an issue. I would say if you have not tried it, or don't rebuild these for a living then :shrug: I don't know what to say...
Jack
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www.jackstransmissions.com EVO VIII, DSM, 3S tranny rebuilding.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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well,
I may not have a choice. I dont have the snap ring clip to hold that bearing in place. I havent tried to find one yet so I have no idea if they are readily available. still not sure about preload and the taper bearings though. Ill try to get some pics of the taper bearing and the ring gear to show whats going on there.
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DR-800 Powered Street Beast
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Forum Member
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Quote:
In your case I would replace the pinion. Check your output shaft for any marks that may be screwing the bearing outward. One thing I have noticed on 300M shafts is that the area where this bearing rides is not ground , and it should be for a bearing to ride on . As for the preload on the pinion and front diff try this: Assemble the ctr case ,bellhousing pinion and front diff as an assembly without any of the other gears and rear case cover . That should give you enough room to get your hand in there and check the preload on your asembly . Hope that helps. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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OK, thanks.
I think at this point my plan is to : replace the bearings on the front OS(pinion), and replace the bearings on the front lsd. So my question is: when setting preload, for instance on either the lsd or the pinion, do you only preload one of the two bearings????? This is how I understand it. you measure the solder, then add shims to match the solder, then add shims to match what the preload should be, right? so are you preloading each bearing, or each individual assembly? |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Forum Member
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I think at this point my plan is to :
replace the bearings on the front OS(pinion), and replace the bearings on the front lsd. I would replace the entyire pinion if the pin bearing spun inside So my question is: when setting preload, for instance on either the lsd or the pinion, do you only preload one of the two bearings????? by Shimming one side it preloads both This is how I understand it. you measure the solder, then add shims to match the solder, then add shims to match what the preload should be, right? Adding shims to match would give you 0 preload and 0 thrust play .You want to have about 15inOz of preload on each assembly so are you preloading each bearing, or each individual assembly?[/quote] you shim only one side of each shaft . the front diff you shim at bellhousing the pinion you shim at bellhousing the counter shaft you shim at bellhousing the ctr diff assembly you shim at the ctr case hope that helps |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Verified Seller
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that helps for sure.
Im curious now to find out if the pinion is available and how much it would be Im sorry Im a little slow, but to go over it again : shim only the bellhousing side (for my issues) . measure the solder, add preload to that number then use a single shim on the bellhousing side. |
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