My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) - Page 12 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

AdamVR4 · 03-02-2006, 08:31 PM

I would just change the oil immediately after initial start up and again after another 20 minutes of run time. There wont be anything in it after that... You'll be fine assuming the rest of the rebuild has gone okay.

RobBeck · 03-02-2006, 08:37 PM

thats a good plan, but if its in the oiling system it already passed thru the bearings at this point.... damage done. But by all means change it more than less!

Might also be beneficial to plop down $20 for a oil analysis for this unusual situation for that startup oil... although they will probably say the would expect to find some metal stuff in it since it is startup oil.

Rob

AdamVR4 · 03-02-2006, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobBeck

Might also be beneficial to plop down $20 for a oil analysis for this unusual situation for that startup oil... although they will probably say the would expect to find some metal stuff in it since it is startup oil.

Rob

Oooh, I like that idea. Do it!!

Man · 03-02-2006, 10:57 PM

yah, I was planing on changing oil ALOT. Like adam said, after like 5 min. Then half hour or about. An analisis would be good. I dont know who does them but ill ask.

In retrospect, I would still have sand blasted, but i would have taken the block straight to the machine shop for tanking. I was so excited I just painted it with out really thinking it threw. I did blow it out with air for at least 20 - 25 minutes before doing anything to it after getting it. Also, some stuff was masked and some stuff was no where near direct line of fire of the sand. I know some stuff got in the motor, but the motor had been tanked prior to blasting and no oil was in there for the sand to stick to. The air blew a fair amount of dust out and a little bit of sand. Hopefully it will be fine I will get an oil analisis tho out of curiosity.

Even if shit happens, Im getting a 6g74 before too long anyway and Ill keep the sand out of it.

AdamVR4 · 03-02-2006, 11:38 PM

Get an oil pressure gauge so you'll know if you have a problem before you spin a bearing.

If you're worried, the bearings are easilly replaced from below the car.

Bottom line, this shouldn't spell the end of this engine. If you take your time from this point on.

Good luck, you SHOULDN'T need it.

I like your attitude though, you seem like a good guy so I totally wish you the best.

Man · 03-05-2006, 12:56 AM

Made some progress tonight. Pretty much as far as I can go while in the basement. Any more wieght and Ill have to get the hulk to carry it up to the garage.

Here some shit I laid out to install.

Theres the shiny red oil pan on. I like red oilpans so I painted mine a few days ago. Hopefully it will last. I sanded the original black paint down with 200 somthing grit and then washed everything really good. Then shot some engine enamel (chrystler industrial red

) on it. Looks nice so far.

front view

Another angle

Putting the water pump on almost seemed too easy. No sealent or anything.
Anything I should be looking out for? I love advice

mikes2nd · 03-05-2006, 08:31 AM

nah water pump is cake. When putting the water tube in the back, i just spit on it. Make sure you have a new oring gasket also. You don't want to risk it leaking at all since youd go through hell replacing it.

kinda like the rear main seal

one more thing. you need to check that shield that goes on the head to the block.(left side of the front head).

You cant really attach the one side bolt if the cam gears are on. Most just leave it off.

and i torque my heads down 3 times in 3 stages(makes for a good workout also).

maddog · 03-05-2006, 02:25 PM

i still use gasket sealer for the water pump

cant hurt as far as i can see

good work by the way. hope everything works out

Man · 03-07-2006, 08:21 PM

Por-15 on the rusty knock sensor mount done. Got the heavy ass engine up the stairs to the garage.

Here I go

heads on

Torqed and some tbelt shit on. Prety much as far as I can go till I get my valve covers back.

Im not happy with how things are going but I really cant think of anything that is really wrong. Just not confidant in my amature skills

blindmist · 03-09-2006, 08:54 PM

i cannot get the god damn end case off to look at the center diff. i took that hex bolt out and it came off about and inch but wont budge any more. what do i do?!???

03-02-2006, 08:31 PM	#111 (permalink)
AdamVR4 TEXAS!! FIGHT!! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: University of Texas Drives: NoCar XCase Test Car Trader Rating: (22)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) I would just change the oil immediately after initial start up and again after another 20 minutes of run time. There wont be anything in it after that... You'll be fine assuming the rest of the rebuild has gone okay. __________________ PEARL WHITE '93 VR-4 // Under Construction. Looking forward to lighting up the drag radials E16G's: 10.573 @ 135.01 (Trevor owns me ) E16G's: 11.28 @ 124.7 (Pure pump gas ET record ) 14B's: 11.10 @ 127.3 (AWD 14B ET record. Take THAT, Trev! ) 9B's: 12.78 @ 107.1 Congrats to the current top 10 members!! DynamicRacing: US 3S Top 10 Fastest List

03-02-2006, 08:37 PM	#112 (permalink)
RobBeck POLYCHRONOPOULOS Join Date: May 2002 Location: St. Louis, MO Drives: On 1 Wheel Trader Rating: (228)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) thats a good plan, but if its in the oiling system it already passed thru the bearings at this point.... damage done. But by all means change it more than less! Might also be beneficial to plop down $20 for a oil analysis for this unusual situation for that startup oil... although they will probably say the would expect to find some metal stuff in it since it is startup oil. Rob

03-02-2006, 10:57 PM	#114 (permalink)
Man Vr4 Owner As of 12-20-04 Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Missouri Drives: Red on Black 95 VR4 Trader Rating: (3)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) yah, I was planing on changing oil ALOT. Like adam said, after like 5 min. Then half hour or about. An analisis would be good. I dont know who does them but ill ask. In retrospect, I would still have sand blasted, but i would have taken the block straight to the machine shop for tanking. I was so excited I just painted it with out really thinking it threw. I did blow it out with air for at least 20 - 25 minutes before doing anything to it after getting it. Also, some stuff was masked and some stuff was no where near direct line of fire of the sand. I know some stuff got in the motor, but the motor had been tanked prior to blasting and no oil was in there for the sand to stick to. The air blew a fair amount of dust out and a little bit of sand. Hopefully it will be fine I will get an oil analisis tho out of curiosity. Even if shit happens, Im getting a 6g74 before too long anyway and Ill keep the sand out of it. __________________ My buildup thread.

03-02-2006, 11:38 PM	#115 (permalink)
AdamVR4 TEXAS!! FIGHT!! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: University of Texas Drives: NoCar XCase Test Car Trader Rating: (22)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) Get an oil pressure gauge so you'll know if you have a problem before you spin a bearing. If you're worried, the bearings are easilly replaced from below the car. Bottom line, this shouldn't spell the end of this engine. If you take your time from this point on. Good luck, you SHOULDN'T need it. I like your attitude though, you seem like a good guy so I totally wish you the best.

03-05-2006, 12:56 AM	#116 (permalink)
Man Vr4 Owner As of 12-20-04 Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Missouri Drives: Red on Black 95 VR4 Trader Rating: (3)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) Made some progress tonight. Pretty much as far as I can go while in the basement. Any more wieght and Ill have to get the hulk to carry it up to the garage. Here some shit I laid out to install. Theres the shiny red oil pan on. I like red oilpans so I painted mine a few days ago. Hopefully it will last. I sanded the original black paint down with 200 somthing grit and then washed everything really good. Then shot some engine enamel (chrystler industrial red ) on it. Looks nice so far. front view Another angle Putting the water pump on almost seemed too easy. No sealent or anything. Anything I should be looking out for? I love advice Last edited by Man : 03-05-2006 at 01:00 AM.

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03-05-2006, 08:31 AM	#117 (permalink)
mikes2nd Regulator... Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: OH Trader Rating: (31)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) nah water pump is cake. When putting the water tube in the back, i just spit on it. Make sure you have a new oring gasket also. You don't want to risk it leaking at all since youd go through hell replacing it. kinda like the rear main seal one more thing. you need to check that shield that goes on the head to the block.(left side of the front head). You cant really attach the one side bolt if the cam gears are on. Most just leave it off. and i torque my heads down 3 times in 3 stages(makes for a good workout also).

03-05-2006, 02:25 PM	#118 (permalink)
maddog The New Super Pimp Join Date: May 2002 Location: chicago suburbs / IA Drives: FASTER THAN VIPERS Trader Rating: (7)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) i still use gasket sealer for the water pump cant hurt as far as i can see good work by the way. hope everything works out __________________ 93 Sandstone VR4 11.66 @ 117.48mph with Maddog Performance Engineering 13T's This weeks specials: CUSTOM RUBBER INTERCOOLER PIPING AT 50% OFF!!! 28 HOUR ENGINE REBUILD ONLY $700

03-07-2006, 08:21 PM	#119 (permalink)
Man Vr4 Owner As of 12-20-04 Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Missouri Drives: Red on Black 95 VR4 Trader Rating: (3)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) Por-15 on the rusty knock sensor mount done. Got the heavy ass engine up the stairs to the garage. Here I go heads on Torqed and some tbelt shit on. Prety much as far as I can go till I get my valve covers back. Im not happy with how things are going but I really cant think of anything that is really wrong. Just not confidant in my amature skills

03-09-2006, 08:54 PM	#120 (permalink)
blindmist CUSW Co_Prez Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: WTAMU Drives: in reverse Trader Rating: (2)	Re: My "TRANS REBUILD PAGE" (Lots of Pics) i cannot get the god damn end case off to look at the center diff. i took that hex bolt out and it came off about and inch but wont budge any more. what do i do?!???