Kormex Tranny Issues !!! - Page 7 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center

KORMEX · 04-30-2008, 04:53 PM

Quote:

With this new Kormex transmission I cannot shift normal except for 3rd to 4th. Every other gear is notchy and you have to apply light pressure so it can work its way in. If I slowly accelerate in 1st then push the clutch all the way in and try to shift from 1st to 2nd at a normal pace it clunks and sounds like the syncros are bad. WTF???

Quote:

I'm just so frustrated spending that kind of cash and not seeing an improvement!!! Any ideas?

Quote:

This is not what I expected at all. Thats why I am so disappointed. The only difference between my reman $2800 kormex trans and my stock one with 90K on it, is a little less notchiness but not any faster in shifting.

Quote:

And from my experience as I sit right now I WOULD NOT recommend a kormex tranny to anyone who has a decent tranny and is still driveable!!! Chance are its no better than yours right now.

Quote:

I mean you cant shift a rebuilt tranny at a normal speed tells me there is something wrong with it.

Quote:

Anyone else have these same issues, maybe a resolution or some suggestions, or even someone with a kormex trans speak up please. Is your $2500 kormex trans acting the same as mine???

Quote:

And I dont know that the tranny is bad for sure.

If you dont know that the trans is bad , you sure have been a dick about it !.

cbehnken · 04-30-2008, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driver17

How is a dragging clutch fixed exactly? Just an R & R of the clutch to re-position it or ??? Thanks cbehnken!

Either there is air in your lines or your slave cylinder is bad. Could also still be the master cylinder.

If you can feel the driveshaft try to move shifting into 1st while stopped your clutch is dragging.

You have probably wrecked the transmission syncros by shifting it with the clutch dragging.

You can bust a transmission in a few shifts if the clutch drags. I really hope you haven't hurt yours, but the way you sound your clutch is dragging bad.

Anothing thing that may have happened is the mechanic that installed your transmission may have had the weight of the transmission on the clutch and warped the clutch disc. This can happen if you get the input shaft of the trans partially in the clutch disc and do not have the transmission on the doll pins in the engine yet and do not support the trans.

Once a clutch disc is bent like this it is almost always ruined and will always drag.

Boostaddict · 04-30-2008, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driver17

How is a dragging clutch fixed exactly? Just an R & R of the clutch to re-position it or ??? Thanks cbehnken!

Step height on the flywheel could be too small...

venetrex · 05-01-2008, 04:26 AM

I really feel like clutch drag. Did you replace or resurface your flywheel??? That is related to the post before mine concerning the step height. Did you try rev matching with shifts to see if it goes into or comes out of gear easier. Kormex is correct in how does it shift if the car is off?? Will it go into first gear every time with the car off. Park on level ground, put the ebarake on and try shifting with the engine off. If it is much easier, I would say with 99.9% certainty you have a CLUTCH issue. What type of clutch is in there? What type of flywheel? Did you mess with the freeplay adjustment under the dash by the pedal. The adjustment is right in the service manual. However if you do it too much or wrong your clutch can slip. I wouldn't say the clutch in our cars in rocket science, however CARE must be taken. Check this stuff.

driver17 · 05-01-2008, 05:35 AM

Yes I did check free play and adjusted the engagement. I talked to my mechanic and he is the one that told me to adjust the pedal. I did adjust my pedal last night again. The shifting is not nearly so notchy now but its not perfect, and at a standstill I still get the resistance to go into gear.

Funny how not until page 7 was clutch pedal adjustment mentioned. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions though!!!

Anyways, yes I did adjust that so it starts engaging really close to the floor. As I understand it, that increases the clutches throw. It is almost like the clutch isn't fully disengaging, I dont know if thats different or the same as 'dragging'.

That is a resurfaced flywheel in there. Done just before installation. I can only assume the step height was correct.

I am going to install that new clutch line, and bleed the clutch tomorrow. My mechanic thinks there could be a slight air bubble or something. If after I do that and there is no improvement, I am taking it down to him so he can pull the trans and see what the deal is. That is my last resort and its going to cost me about another 500 just for him to check it out again.

cbehnken · 05-01-2008, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driver17

Yes I did check free play and adjusted the engagement. I talked to my mechanic and he is the one that told me to adjust the pedal. I did adjust my pedal last night again. The shifting is not nearly so notchy now but its not perfect, and at a standstill I still get the resistance to go into gear.

Funny how not until page 7 was clutch pedal adjustment mentioned. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions though!!!

Anyways, yes I did adjust that so it starts engaging really close to the floor. As I understand it, that increases the clutches throw. It is almost like the clutch isn't fully disengaging, I dont know if thats different or the same as 'dragging'.

That is a resurfaced flywheel in there. Done just before installation. I can only assume the step height was correct.

I am going to install that new clutch line, and bleed the clutch tomorrow. My mechanic thinks there could be a slight air bubble or something. If after I do that and there is no improvement, I am taking it down to him so he can pull the trans and see what the deal is. That is my last resort and its going to cost me about another 500 just for him to check it out again.

You have it backwards. The closer to the top that the clutch engages the more travel it has (to a point). You still need some freeplay at the top for everything to work right.

venetrex · 05-01-2008, 10:14 AM

I 2nd above, If the pedal engages closer to the top you will disengage it more when you push the pedal down. I am totally againsy resurfacing flywheels, especially 2 step. You loose material which is less metal to be a heat syc to dissipate heat. Yea I know it is probably a few thosands, but remember how good of quality is the resurface and does anyone mic it up for tolerances, usually not. How does your car go into gear with the engine off? Also you mention it is hard to go into first from a stop, how about a slow roll? More things to point to clutch drag. Our car actually has a complicated clutch setup compared to others. You Have a master and slave cylinder, a clutch booster(almost no car has one of these), various hydraulic and vacuum lines, freeplay adjustment. Even the arm that pushes against the cluch can be bent or deformed. All of this should be checked. Also the splines should be lubed that the disc and throwout bearing ride on. Did you check the likage under the dash to make sure the bolts are all tight? Check stealth 316.com and look for clutch not disengaging in the troubleshooting section of the garage, it sums it up REAL good. It really sounds like a clutch issue for even after you got your new tranny that the problem still followed. You need to reference the service manual for all of the correct setup. It is spelled out clearly. I can't stress enough how important a properly functioning cluth is to easy shifting.

driver17 · 05-01-2008, 10:25 AM

With the car off it shifts like it does when running. When the car is off, if I pump the clutch a few times, the shifting gets easier but still not very smooth. Still very similar to driving and shifting.

When at a slow roll it will go into 1st easier than standing still but it still has to 'work its way in'. And it will only do that going slow enough to hardly register on my speedo.

Bret Brinkmann · 05-10-2008, 10:01 AM

Wow, I go and take a few finals and people get all homicidal on each other.... The guys just trying to figure out what is wrong with his car and he is getting frusterated, calm down guys.

With this new info, it sounds to me as though the pressure plate is bad. I had the same thing on my car a while back. Improper tranny installation is usually the reason (just like with the clutch disk only the input shaft hits the fingers of the diaphram spring and slightly bends them) but a faulty pressure plate from the manufacturer is still possible. This usually shows up as an intermittnet problem. Some times the car will go into first just fine, other times you have to sit there and wait for it to finally pop into gear. Sound familiar driver17? You may still have other problems, but I bet your pressure plate is damaged. The only way to fix the problem is to replace it unfortantly.

Other things I read here that people should know is that one cluck of the drive shaft DOES NOT mean the clutch is draging. ONLY UPON THE SECOND CLUNK WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL HELD DOWN CAN YOU DETERMINE THAT THE CLUTCH IS DRAGGING. A "dragging" clutch is what we call a clutch that does not fully disengauge. A clutch pedal adjustment is what I recommend after the cable adjustment.

Adjusting the cables so that they fit over the attatchment on the tranny with out moving will not result in good shift feel. It is a good starting point though. Another good sign that the cables need to be adjusted is if you have to force the lever to the left farther than the stops want you to go to get into 1st. Or to the right for reverse. Adjust for feel in the car, not ease of fittment on the tranny. Check those bushings at the tranny end of the cables for play also. If you find any, replace them with solid bushings or rollor blade bearings.

These AWD trannys are sensitive to fluid choice. The synchros like thin fluids but the hard parts need a high level of protection. The only ring that has the fiberous friction material like a clutch in an auto is the reverse ring on 5 speeds. The others are sintered bronze on steel rings. I DO NOT recommend any one trying ATF in them. Bad idea. It will not protect the gears. A lot of newer cars (like the Vettes) use a fluid that is colored like ATF but it is NOT ATF. I can't tell you guys how many Chevys I worked on when I was at the dealership (fully certified by the way) that had improper fluid in them because some one thought that their car used ATF. It is not the same fluid.

OLS_Faust_17 · 06-21-2008, 10:11 PM

I have a 1990 Mitsubishi GTO, gearbox is out and sitting in the workshop. Told the output shaft is worn, transfer case needs to be replaces and the synchros and bearings also need to be replaced in the gearbox. Was looking at getting the gearbox from kormex

kormex trans parts

as a changeover but the guy doing the box is looking to having everything rebuilt here in Australia. I'm not sure what option is best, I am looking at putting more power into the car as the years go by and I am afraid that if I'm still stuck with the 18 spline it'll just break again. Any words of wisdom woud be greatly appreciated.

05-01-2008, 04:26 AM	#64 (permalink)
venetrex Someone else's mistakes Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: CT Drives: 1992 3000GT VR4 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Kormex Tranny Issues !!! I really feel like clutch drag. Did you replace or resurface your flywheel??? That is related to the post before mine concerning the step height. Did you try rev matching with shifts to see if it goes into or comes out of gear easier. Kormex is correct in how does it shift if the car is off?? Will it go into first gear every time with the car off. Park on level ground, put the ebarake on and try shifting with the engine off. If it is much easier, I would say with 99.9% certainty you have a CLUTCH issue. What type of clutch is in there? What type of flywheel? Did you mess with the freeplay adjustment under the dash by the pedal. The adjustment is right in the service manual. However if you do it too much or wrong your clutch can slip. I wouldn't say the clutch in our cars in rocket science, however CARE must be taken. Check this stuff. __________________ DR650R's, supra fuel pump hotwired and aem fuel pressure regulator with bob beck adapter, addicted performance front mount intercooler and piping, ceramin coated inside and out, ebay knockoff DN headers, cusom stillen downpipe, Borla catback, precision turbo 550cc injectors, RPS MAX series clutch, street disc, and RPS segmented aluminum flywheel, 3sx braided stainless turbo feed and return lines, 3sx braided clutch line, fidanza adjustable cam gears, arc2 fuel controller with ford MAS, greddy E-manage blue for fine tuning and timind control, Greddy profec E-01 for boost control, AEM widemand O2, arm-1 narrow band o2, autometer boost gauge, HKS ssqv with custom recirc adapter, 3sx fuel rail adapter.

05-01-2008, 05:35 AM	#65 (permalink)
driver17 Forum Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: WI Drives: 92 VR4 Trader Rating: (7)	Re: Kormex Tranny Issues !!! Yes I did check free play and adjusted the engagement. I talked to my mechanic and he is the one that told me to adjust the pedal. I did adjust my pedal last night again. The shifting is not nearly so notchy now but its not perfect, and at a standstill I still get the resistance to go into gear. Funny how not until page 7 was clutch pedal adjustment mentioned. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions though!!! Anyways, yes I did adjust that so it starts engaging really close to the floor. As I understand it, that increases the clutches throw. It is almost like the clutch isn't fully disengaging, I dont know if thats different or the same as 'dragging'. That is a resurfaced flywheel in there. Done just before installation. I can only assume the step height was correct. I am going to install that new clutch line, and bleed the clutch tomorrow. My mechanic thinks there could be a slight air bubble or something. If after I do that and there is no improvement, I am taking it down to him so he can pull the trans and see what the deal is. That is my last resort and its going to cost me about another 500 just for him to check it out again.

05-01-2008, 10:14 AM	#67 (permalink)
venetrex Someone else's mistakes Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: CT Drives: 1992 3000GT VR4 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Kormex Tranny Issues !!! I 2nd above, If the pedal engages closer to the top you will disengage it more when you push the pedal down. I am totally againsy resurfacing flywheels, especially 2 step. You loose material which is less metal to be a heat syc to dissipate heat. Yea I know it is probably a few thosands, but remember how good of quality is the resurface and does anyone mic it up for tolerances, usually not. How does your car go into gear with the engine off? Also you mention it is hard to go into first from a stop, how about a slow roll? More things to point to clutch drag. Our car actually has a complicated clutch setup compared to others. You Have a master and slave cylinder, a clutch booster(almost no car has one of these), various hydraulic and vacuum lines, freeplay adjustment. Even the arm that pushes against the cluch can be bent or deformed. All of this should be checked. Also the splines should be lubed that the disc and throwout bearing ride on. Did you check the likage under the dash to make sure the bolts are all tight? Check stealth 316.com and look for clutch not disengaging in the troubleshooting section of the garage, it sums it up REAL good. It really sounds like a clutch issue for even after you got your new tranny that the problem still followed. You need to reference the service manual for all of the correct setup. It is spelled out clearly. I can't stress enough how important a properly functioning cluth is to easy shifting.

05-01-2008, 10:25 AM	#68 (permalink)
driver17 Forum Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: WI Drives: 92 VR4 Trader Rating: (7)	Re: Kormex Tranny Issues !!! With the car off it shifts like it does when running. When the car is off, if I pump the clutch a few times, the shifting gets easier but still not very smooth. Still very similar to driving and shifting. When at a slow roll it will go into 1st easier than standing still but it still has to 'work its way in'. And it will only do that going slow enough to hardly register on my speedo.

05-10-2008, 10:01 AM	#69 (permalink)
Bret Brinkmann Gear Head Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Charlotte NC Drives: Rear wheels only... Trader Rating: (4)	Re: Kormex Tranny Issues !!! Wow, I go and take a few finals and people get all homicidal on each other.... The guys just trying to figure out what is wrong with his car and he is getting frusterated, calm down guys. With this new info, it sounds to me as though the pressure plate is bad. I had the same thing on my car a while back. Improper tranny installation is usually the reason (just like with the clutch disk only the input shaft hits the fingers of the diaphram spring and slightly bends them) but a faulty pressure plate from the manufacturer is still possible. This usually shows up as an intermittnet problem. Some times the car will go into first just fine, other times you have to sit there and wait for it to finally pop into gear. Sound familiar driver17? You may still have other problems, but I bet your pressure plate is damaged. The only way to fix the problem is to replace it unfortantly. Other things I read here that people should know is that one cluck of the drive shaft DOES NOT mean the clutch is draging. ONLY UPON THE SECOND CLUNK WITH THE CLUTCH PEDAL HELD DOWN CAN YOU DETERMINE THAT THE CLUTCH IS DRAGGING. A "dragging" clutch is what we call a clutch that does not fully disengauge. A clutch pedal adjustment is what I recommend after the cable adjustment. Adjusting the cables so that they fit over the attatchment on the tranny with out moving will not result in good shift feel. It is a good starting point though. Another good sign that the cables need to be adjusted is if you have to force the lever to the left farther than the stops want you to go to get into 1st. Or to the right for reverse. Adjust for feel in the car, not ease of fittment on the tranny. Check those bushings at the tranny end of the cables for play also. If you find any, replace them with solid bushings or rollor blade bearings. These AWD trannys are sensitive to fluid choice. The synchros like thin fluids but the hard parts need a high level of protection. The only ring that has the fiberous friction material like a clutch in an auto is the reverse ring on 5 speeds. The others are sintered bronze on steel rings. I DO NOT recommend any one trying ATF in them. Bad idea. It will not protect the gears. A lot of newer cars (like the Vettes) use a fluid that is colored like ATF but it is NOT ATF. I can't tell you guys how many Chevys I worked on when I was at the dealership (fully certified by the way) that had improper fluid in them because some one thought that their car used ATF. It is not the same fluid. __________________ When asked what the best thing to come out of Italy is, most Italians will tell you Ferrari.... But if you ask me it was Super Mario Brothers. 250 RWHP If you want the exploded views of both 5 and 6 speeds or pics e-mail me at SavagTiger@AOL.com. 94 VR-4 Panama Green Tan Interior RPS II, gutted cats, flipped BPV, 3SX control arms, 3SX shift bushings, Red Line, Auto-Meter. Rebuilt TC, transaxle, steering rack, heads, and turbos. 360cc's blue printened with in 1%. New short block. RWD convertion and welded rear end.

Sponsored Links
3000GT/Stealth International Message Center Advertisement

06-21-2008, 10:11 PM	#70 (permalink)
OLS_Faust_17 New User - Please be kind Join Date: Jun 2008 Drives: GTO Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Kormex Tranny Issues !!! I have a 1990 Mitsubishi GTO, gearbox is out and sitting in the workshop. Told the output shaft is worn, transfer case needs to be replaces and the synchros and bearings also need to be replaced in the gearbox. Was looking at getting the gearbox from kormex kormex trans parts as a changeover but the guy doing the box is looking to having everything rebuilt here in Australia. I'm not sure what option is best, I am looking at putting more power into the car as the years go by and I am afraid that if I'm still stuck with the 18 spline it'll just break again. Any words of wisdom woud be greatly appreciated.